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OK folks, I have done a search, and it either has not been discussed or I am using the wrong search terms (most likely the case). Stock 18 inch wheels, stock 275/70/18 tires (for now).. Pressures are set to 60f/65r, is that what everyone is using, or are they dropping it down some when unloaded, and what are you dropping to. I will be using forscan to change the limits, but want to know a start spot. Will be swapping to 295/70/18 when I get a chance to have them removed from old F150 wheels, but not sure when that will be..
This has been debated many times on here. I run lower than the average for my 6.7 at 45-50 in the front and 40-45 in the rear. This was after I conducted a chalk test with my 35in tires. If towing I bump them up and had to
adjust the tpms threshold with forscan.
This has been debated many times on here. I run lower than the average for my 6.7 at 45-50 in the front and 40-45 in the rear. This was after I conducted a chalk test with my 35in tires. If towing I bump them up and had to
adjust the tpms threshold with forscan.
Thank you for the info, one large factor left out, have the 6.2 gasser....
I'm running 60ft/65r on my ccsb gasser. I keep saying I'm going to use the chalk method to find the ideal psi but I haven't yet. On my old truck (reg cab 250)60lbs was the ideal range.
ETA. I've heard that too low pressure can help bring on death wobble but I don't have any first hand experience of that. I don't like seeing the sidewalls bulge so I don't like to run really low pressures.
I run 60 front 65 rear when empty and have these pressures set at about 40 degrees outside during winter. Truck sides great and my tires have worn evenly. I’m slightly over 65,000 miles.
Loaded heavy or when towing (11,500 lb travel trailer) I go to max pressure at 80.
on really cold mornings they all drop 5-6 lbs but I feel this is still safe pressure while staying above factory low pressure warning thresholds.
Yes lots of debate here on this. I have 6.2/4.30s and 20" Michelins for now. 90% of my usage is either commuting or light weight with only a few heavier tows a year of a boat. Im running 60 front and 55 rear. I see most run the higher pressure in the rear. This is good for towing or with a decent load in the bed. But if your running around empty a lot the rear of your truck has far lower loading than the front. Particularly with the diesel.
I do have mild bump steer. I have not had DW. I only have over 8,000 miles on the truck though.
I do the chalk test every dry day because I park it in the shop at work. The smooth concrete always has a layer of chalky dust. This pressure results in a smooth covering of the tread.
There are equally as many people indicating low pressure cures DW as those claiming it raises the likelihood. My experience with admittedly different tractor trailers is that running empty with high pressure causes more bouncing. I still dont have enough info to effectively decide if bouncing of the tires is causing the DW or is just a symptom of it.
This is one of the issues where no hard and fast facts exist. Chalk testing will tell you if you are over or under inflated as far as tire wear is concerned. Your experience as you experiment will indicate for you seat of the pants wise where you want to be.
I do not personally believe 10 or 15% variation of pressure can cause any serious problems as long as your running the same left and right on the same axle.
50 front 53 rear cold pressure on a 2018 F250 running 325/60/20 Toyo AT's. Door sticker is 60/65. Those pressures do not set off my TPMS alarm. I could go down more on the rear as the outsides don't touch much unloaded. On a 20x9 wheel.
I tried 50 rear and got the warning light.
My tires are rated at 65 max psi.
On factory Michelin's I ran 55/60 cold
I run 50 in front 45 in rear. Totally changed for the better the ride and handling. When running 65/65 it always felt squirrelly at 70-75. Now it feel planted and the ride is vastly improved.