When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Rebuild steering and suspension - Check
Replace cracked exhaust manifold - Check
Replace fuel pump - Check
Replace brake lines, MC, WC and rebuild all four drum brakes - Check
So close to getting it back on the road and out of no where the engine starts running rough. With NumberDummy's help i was able to find the correct replacement Distributor Advance Canister which helped a little but it's still running rough.
I've checked for vacuum leaks multiple times with propane and starter fluid and found nothing. After some research on this forum I wanted to check my PCV valve to see if it was functioning correctly. Every post/video/part I can find shows a EV49B PCV valve pushed into a rubber grommet in the valve cover but sure enough like almost everything on this truck mine is different. So different i cant find any pictures etc that match.
Can any one identify this PCV valve, what the part number is, and how it is replaced? Or should i pull this valve out and install a grommet and EV49B?
That PCV valve can be taken apart and cleaned very easily. If you pull it out and look on the side that goes inward there on the end will be a snap ring. Remove the snap ring and disassemble it. It will have some other markings on it, too. Like either AC Spark Plug Type or another company. Don't throw that away! There is no reason any of the originals can't be reused unless you lose some parts or they rust up really bad, etc. - it was only the later ones that they started crimping together that made them un-serviceable.
The grommet is available, too, if it tears. Use care if the hose runs to an original carburetor spacer. Those are getting near impossible to find.
Since they're so inexpensive, you could still try a new replacement just to see if it fixes your issue. But I'd say if you have some cool old original serviceable kind of thing, like TA said, keep it!
I have to say though, that I believe that any of them can eventually wear out to the point that the parts are no longer good. If it still uses what is called the "pill" inside, all that banging around for 50 years or more can take it's toll. On anything!
Hence my recommendation of trying a new one anyway. Nothing as cool as old-school, and nothing old-school as cool as original! But at some point, you might still have to let go.
Another test might be to pull the hose off of the top and simply plug it to see how the engine runs. Yes, the overall fuel/air mixture will have changed, but it should still run and you can note the difference in how good or bad it runs with the valve out of the equation.
It's super easy to take them apart - here's the underneath side of two difference brands - note the hex shaped body. Also note the one on the left you can clearly see the snap ring - the other style on the right you can maybe see the small wire holding it in place. Spring wire so it can be removed and reinstalled. The PCV valve is very simple. The typical test is to remove it and give it a good shake. If you hear it rattle then you should be fine to reinstall it. The most common problem is they get gummed up inside.
I don't have time right now but when I get a chance I'll take both of these apart and show what they look like inside.
Should the PCV valve have a spring it it? The one I have looks pretty new but the "pill" just rattles up and down, no spring of any kind in it. Is it just a cheap POS replacement?
There was a spring in the originals holding them in a normally closed position but not all PCV valves have a spring.
I posted a couple of very expensive originals in the post above, but if you put a search on eBay they do show up for much better prices occasionally. Here's one I bought in the Ford box (AC Spark Plug Type) for under $20 before tax. Says it is for a 170 but it was also used on other engine sizes including 289 like in a Mustang and 300 6-cylinder.
Here's a picture of the internals of the one OE style. Not really much to wear out. The moving portion only makes contact on 4 tips at the bottom edge. Push comes to shove a person could always TIG weld the tips to build them back up. But, this isn't a high speed high friction part. The main culprit was them getting fouled with engine oil and grime and sticking. But, like I've said before it is trivial to take them apart and clean them well.
Should the PCV valve have a spring it it? The one I have looks pretty new but the "pill" just rattles up and down, no spring of any kind in it. Is it just a cheap POS replacement?
As the others have said, some do have springs. But even of those, not all are there to hold the pill firmly in place. So the rattling is 95% going to be perfectly normal.
In fact, the "rattle test" is the tried and true method for making sure yours is still functioning. Personally I will use the rattle test, but only use it so far. If a valve looks gummed up and old, but still rattles, I've found replacing it to be the best practice. They're cheap!
If not in a place to replace one immediately however, some carburetor cleaner to soak it up and clear out some of the gunk will extend the life of a PCV valve sometimes fairly long.
After some research on this forum I wanted to check my PCV valve to see if it was functioning correctly. Every post/video/part I can find shows a EV49B PCV valve pushed into a rubber grommet in the valve cover but sure enough like almost everything on this truck mine is different. So different i cant find any pictures etc that match.
Can any one identify this PCV valve, what the part number is, and how it is replaced? Or should i pull this valve out and install a grommet and EV49B?
Have you pulled the valve to see if there are any ID STAMPINGS?
It may have the incorrect valve which will most likely throw the fuel trim off
Occasionally you run across a pcv valve that rattles but doesn't actually function correctly...resulting in a lean air:fuel or fouled engine.
They can be a little tricky, especially on custom built engines. If not matched to the engine "needs" they don't suck enough to sweep the crankcase or they suck too much and foul the intake and combustion chambers. Doesn't hurt to keep an eye on things for a little while after installing a pcv valve to make sure it's working with the engine and not against it.
You can't, you have to make an educated guess. Factory never released flow rates. Usually you go by what the factory released for an engine similar to yours and go from there. You then verify flow with a vacuum gauge As the engine ages, the calibration will remain constant and may not function as designed with continuing engine wear. Design of system and maintenance will also affect flow rates.
There is an adjustable valve that will enable one to continually tune the system..
Well where the heck did my post go!?
Oh well, basically just saying what KULTULZ said but with twice the number of words...
The reason I changed mine originally was so I could plumb it more cleanly with stuff I had on hand. Bending my own metal line, and terminating it at each end with rubber hose.
For that I needed/wanted a valve with a 90° 3/8" barb where the stock Bronco valve was straight up and required the hose make the 90. No problem for the molded factory hose, but not what I wanted.
The first one I tried was for a '75 Ford Grenada with 302. This was for my stock 302 so I figured it would be a good fit. WRONG! That's the one that acted like a big vacuum leak. Figured that it was due to the smog calibration for a '75 vehicle vs my pre-smog '71. Made sense to me at least.
The one that I finally settled on was from a '72 Corvette 350ci engine. When I tried it on for size the engine ran just like it did with the stock one. So I figured the calibration was very close to my original.
So that's what I ran in my Bronco for the next twenty years or so. Kept the Grenada unit in my tool box for those high-altitude excursions.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
