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I have been looking on the internet for a single bolt but can't find anything except a kit.
I did find singles on RockAuto but they don't know when they will get any.
-So if you have one, then please PM me or,,,
-Bolt needed, is on the Drivers-side, fourth (4th) bolt back from the front of the engine.
-Or can I use a grade 8 bolt, or will the grade 8 not work well with the heat cycles and thus I will have to find a steel bolt from somewhere.
Or can I use a grade 8 bolt, or will the grade 8 not work well with the heat cycles and thus I will have to find a steel bolt from somewhere.
A grade 8 bolt will work just fine. The manifold bolts on an FE torque at 32-35 ft. lbs. That is a lot of torque on a 3/8-16 bolt. I usually replace all the manifold bolts with new grade 8 bolts because you never know the history and if some big gorilla tightened them without using a torque wrench the old ones could be stretched. If I replace a flanged bolt with a standard head bolt I usually use a hardened steel washer under it. If you have a Fastenal store nearby that is good place to get about any type of bolt you may need. You might even be able to find some that weren't made where English is a second language.
Or can I use a grade 8 bolt, or will the grade 8 not work well with the heat cycles and thus I will have to find a steel bolt from somewhere.
A grade 8 bolt will work just fine. The manifold bolts on an FE torque at 32-35 ft. lbs. That is a lot of torque on a 3/8-16 bolt. I usually replace all the manifold bolts with new grade 8 bolts because you never know the history and if some big gorilla tightened them without using a torque wrench the old ones could be stretched. If I replace a flanged bolt with a standard head bolt I usually use a hardened steel washer under it. If you have a Fastenal store nearby that is good place to get about any type of bolt you may need. You might even be able to find some that weren't made where English is a second language.
Ok thank you very much.
I’ll change them all out and thanks for the torque spec.
I’m installing a aluminum intake.
JB
Ok thank you very much.
I’ll change them all out and thanks for the torque spec.
I’m installing a aluminum intake.
JB
Do not use the factory torque for a cast iron manifold with an aluminum manifold. If the manifold you have is new the instructions should have torque specs. If not consult the manufactures web site. Some brands of manifolds specify lesser torque than factory specs. Most Edelbrock manifolds are only 25 ft. lbs.
Some manifolds require "reduced head" bolts in several places, eg the Streetmaster. I have my empty package of four 2 1/4" capscrews with the Edelbrock p/n of 9134 but a search doesn't show it. Maybe you have to buy the full set now.
Eric
Do not use the factory torque for a cast iron manifold with an aluminum manifold. If the manifold you have is new the instructions should have torque specs. If not consult the manufactures web site. Some brands of manifolds specify lesser torque than factory specs. Most Edelbrock manifolds are only 25 ft. lbs.
Ok thank you very much, I'll look on their site.
Originally Posted by 6t6merc
Some manifolds require "reduced head" bolts in several places, eg the Streetmaster. I have my empty package of four 2 1/4" capscrews with the Edelbrock p/n of 9134 but a search doesn't show it. Maybe you have to buy the full set now.
Eric
Thanks, I'll check that tomorrow.
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
CHI-COM
You might want to consider STAINLESS STEEL w flat ground washers. There should be complete kits available.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1) Install the water bypass hose and hose clamps onto the water pump bypass tube before installing the intake manifold.
2) Use only recommended intake gaskets set when installing this intake manifold.
3) Fully clean the cylinder head intake flanges and the engine block end seal surfaces.
4) Apply Edelbrock Gasgacinch sealant P/N 9300 to both cylinder head flanges and to the cylinder head side of the gaskets, allow to air dry, and attach the intake gaskets.
5) Do not use cork or rubber end seals. Use RTV silicone sealer instead. Apply a ¼” high bead across each block end seal surface, overlapping the intake gasket at the four corners. This method will eliminate end seal slippage.
6) Install the intake manifold and hold-down bolts. Torque all of the manifold bolts in two steps by the sequence shown in Figure 1 to 25 ft/lbs. While tightening the intake manifold bolts, the distributor should be installed in its proper position.
Care should be taken to make sure that the distributor is centered in the hole in the intake manifold and that it can be freely removed and reinstalled after the intake manifold bolts are tightened.
You might want to consider STAINLESS STEEL w flat ground washers. There should be complete kits available.
Originally Posted by Rollbar
Thanks, I'll stick w/the grade 8.
The reason I suggested SS is not for eye candy. It prevents electrolysis between the ALUM and fastener. The flat ground washer prevents the cap screw head from digging into the alum and giving false torque readings. SS fasteners are also available in GRADE 8.
The reason I suggested SS is not for eye candy. It prevents electrolysis between the ALUM and fastener. The flat ground washer prevents the cap screw head from digging into the alum and giving false torque readings. SS fasteners are also available in GRADE 8.
I was not beating on you, just a shame to mar that new intake ...
Non offends taken at all!
I appreciate all you guys help.
They only had 5 flanged bolts in (8), and the other three were (8) with washers.
So I’ll take the 5 back and get the rest (8) with washer setup.
I agree, I would hate to mess up my $100.00 intake that now I see sells for 3/400 bucks! WoW.
Bought it off a friend who had it on a 390.
Thanks again,
JB
