Pulling my engine to fix the crank after a spun rod bearing. Anyone know if it will come out through the hood section, or will I have to pull the front clip? 98' F150 Lariat 4x4 Ext Cab 5.4L

 

I don't know for sure as I have never removed one, but all trucks that I have worked on, pulling the hood off makes it easier. I have a cd-rom from FixitCds.com Ford Customer Service All Ford trucks 2001 model. I could look up for 2001 F150 if you'd like or any Chilton's, Haynes, or other service manual for your truck should tell you.

 

Thanks! I'm not sure if they are similar body and engine styles. I have a service manual on it, but doesn't say anything about removing the engine. I am able to use the manual to remove necessary components, but no info on pulling it through the hood or otherwise.

 

I have a 98 F250 LD 4x4 5.4 E4OD that I just bought last weekend. I plan on getting a cd for it. If I get a 97 it would also cover my 97 F350 5.8L ZF. The 2001 might have different components but the body and engine are basically the same as your 98. I always remove the hood, fan and radiator before I start on the engine. Then I pull the water, electrical, vacuum and other lines as needed. I disconnect battery and remove the starter. All that should be left are the engine to trans bolts, exhaust manifold flanges to the pipe, and engine mounts unless I forgot something. I haven't found the cd for 2001 yet but it's around here somewhere. They are only ~$20 if you want one for your specific truck go to FixitCds.com or ask Jason Sparks questions (about cd) email@fixitcds.com . They are good at saying what is included. If the dealer can do it, then the instructions are there. It also lists the tools needed. Anyway if you need help just e-mail me back here or home tl_ervin@hotmail.com. By the way, I have never pulled a front clip. On front wheel drive vehicles I've had to pull the front end off (susp), take the engine and transaxle loose, jack up the car. Lift the engine, remove mounts and drop it out the bottom. I will be sure yours will come out the top. I remove hood, fan, radiator for clearance and to avoid damage to them. Good luck.

 

Hi Darrell and welcome to the forum

I always pull the complete cab and front end off but that's probably not an option at home
It requires a good 2 post hoist and most people dont seem to have those in their driveways.
The engine will come out after removing the hood but it is a tight fit. Taking off the whole front clip would be a lot of work I think.
Some of the guys at work will remove most of the cab bolts and front clip mounting bolts and raise the body up a bit to get at the bellhousing bolts easier.
I find it easiest to leave the PS pump attached to the engine and just remove the hoses from the steering box.
The AC compressor has to be unbolted from the block and then it can be positioned out of the way enough without having to open up the lines.
The intake manifold doesn't come off easily but it should be removed before pulling the engine so you'll have extra room.
The wiring to the engine can be unplugged at the big connectors on the firewall and inner fenders.
The O2 sensors wires are attached to the back of the heads. Dont forget to unplug those or you'll rip them apart.
I'm sure I'll think of other things later too.
If you have any more questions feel free to ask. There are a few of us here that work on these for a living and dont mind answering questions.
If you want to see what it looks like with the body off take a peek at http://flatratetech.com/images/nav_how_to.htm

 

Those are cool pics. How come the Navi's got the DOHC engines and the trucks got SOHC? I guess torque ratings?
I know the DOHC in a Lincoln MarkVIII will git with it . They actually seem pretty torquey.
Jimmy

 

I've never driven a Navi but I do know that a Mark VIII performs nicely
I wonder how much low end the DOHC has. It might be weak for towing?

 

Well, I was certainly in for a shock. I guess the front clip doesn't come off the cab like they used to eh? I certainly do not have the resources to remove the cab off the truck, although it does look tempting after seeing the work area available. I certainly appreciate any additional info you might come up with. I was thinking about just pulling the engine forward to see if I could drop the crank that way, you know, without actually pulling the engine. But the manual I have says that the engine should be removed from the vehicle. There are some odd looking bolts on the main bearings, kind of a half moon shape. Do you know if it takes some sort of special tool to remove these, or are they just some type of keepers?
Also, I am trying to decide whether to just turn the crank and put in oversized bearings (much cheaper), or to buy a new crank (about $700.00 + Tax) and new bearings. Which way to do you think would be most feasible? It slightly ate into the crank on the number 4 rod bearing.........................thanks!

 

Wow, that's interesting. Pulling the cab to get the engine out! I'll bet it really reduces the chance of causing damage to the paint or bodywork when pulling an engine, and helps to be sure that all connections to the engine are correct before re-installing the cab. How long does it take to remove the cab with your experience? And, can you run the engine with the cab removed, with some kind of test stand containing the computer?

 

I havent actually tried removing the front clip but it looks like quite a bit of work. Sometimes though once you start it isnt as bad as it looks. No way would I try changing the crank without having the engine out and on an engine stand.
Other than pulling the heads off and pistons out you have to pretty much disassemble the whole engine. The timing cover, timing chains etc have to come off. You'll need special tools to reset the cam timing. Hopefully you can borrow those from someone.
Usually reground cranks and oversize bearings are as good as new ones. I dont have any experience with reground cranks on a 5.4 though.
The main bearing cap bolts arent reuseable. You'll need to buy new ones. The half moon things I think you're talking about are dowels that fit in between the main caps and the block. They just pull out. The main caps also have cross bolts from the outside of the block that fit into the main caps.

Yes pulling the body really does lessen the chances of doing damage to the paint. Some customers freak though if they see the body off their truck. You have to explain that it's the best way to do a good job on their engine.
The last couple I've done took about 2 to 2.5 hours to get the body off. Some guys say they can do it in under 1.5. I have only done a few and not back to back so it takes a little longer.
It would be quite a bit of work to hook it up so you could run the engine without the body. You'd need wiring harnesses etc. The rad stays with the body so you'd have to have something else to use, transmission cooler lines would have to be hooked up somehow etc.
It would be kinda nice though

 

What type of special tools will I need to reset the cam timing and why? My manual says to line up the bright colored links to set timing..........Thanks!

 

One of the main things the special tools do is to hold the cams so they dont turn. The valve springs will try to turn the cam and you'll have a hard time lining up the marks.
Quite often the bright links arent so bright and you have a hard time finding them. You can take some paint and mark the links yourself though.

 

I appreciate the info on that one, had no Idea that would happen...................Thanks!

 

Can you tell me the best way to chain the motor to raise it up through the hood?

 

The Ford lifting bracket goes from the front of the block to the back of the block after the intake if off.
Without that I think I'd pull the intake and bolt the chain to the intake bolts on the heads or maybe to the bellhousing bolt holes...they go through to under the intake so you can bolt from inside.... and the front of the chain to the alternator bolt holes.