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Help w/89F150

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Old Dec 6, 2019 | 03:54 PM
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Help w/89F150

Bought a 1989 F150 302 fuel injected for way to much money and the belief that I was getting a great buy!! Wrong answer. So I’ve decided to sell and take a loss. Truck has wiring issues from PO attempting to add a sound system. Sometimes you can start at key and other times by connecting the pos and neg on solenoid. Horn won’t work, wipers work only when they feel like it. The one thing that I would like to solve is it has a high idle and idles up to 4grand but once you shift into gear it idles back down , and jumps back up when truck is at a stop or in neutral. I installed a new map sensor thinking easy fix but didn’t change a thing. The one guy that came to look at it said he thought the block looked like one from a carbureted truck and someone added the fuel injection to it. So I’m wondering if that just might be the reason for the high idle? I’m not a mechanic in the least and that’s why I’m here where the pros seem to be. So any info would be appreciated. Thanks all
 
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Old Dec 6, 2019 | 06:26 PM
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So after posting this I thought 4g was a lil exaggerated for it idling high and somehow by the grace of god it started at the key. I let it sit for a bit and happened to notice that it didn’t start idling really high until I assume the motor warmed up and it was idling at 3g not 4. Does anybody have any idea what this could possibly be? I’d love to solve it thanks
 
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Old Dec 6, 2019 | 07:04 PM
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Run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Stored Code display. There is no way to look at the engine block to figure out if it was a carb'ed or EFI from the factory other than decoding the casting numbers. Even then there are overlaps so the statement from the potential buyer is very suspect.

I also posted a response to your questions in the other thread you tagged onto.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2019 | 08:19 PM
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Ok great I will try that out. Glad to hear at a quick glance there is no way to tell. You’d think for a guy that has owned at least 10 F150’s from 1997 till now that I’d know a lot about them, unfortunately I do not. I appreciate you answering both threads.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2019 | 02:14 PM
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RLA nothing happened when running the key on engine off test, no blinking check engine light. Any new ideas?
 
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Old Dec 12, 2019 | 02:58 PM
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Does the Check Engine Light illuminate when you cycle the key from the Off to Run position? It should.

If not, could be a bad or missing bulb. If it does, then you may have a bad computer.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 01:53 PM
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RLA, I found a ford code reader in the box of new parts that came with truck. So I hooked it up and it told me that it was the TPS, which actually looks brand spanking new. Prob change it out anyhow. Also sometimes this truck will start at key and most of the time it won’t. I put a new solenoid thinking simple fix....wrong. It will start with a screwdriver and crossing pos and neg of solenoid. So I cleaned up all the connections and terminals to battery and starter along with ground to block and still the same. The P.O. left a few grounds here and there that are just floating around in engine bay. Might that be the issue bot maybe it’s the starter altogether?
 
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 02:09 PM
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Verify the start signal is getting to the solenoid. If the truck has an automatic transmission try starting with the shifter in the Neutral position. Also try wiggling the shifter a bit while it is in Park. If the transmission is a manual verify the clutch position switch is fully engaged with the clutch pushed in.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 02:38 PM
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It’s manual and I think that’s the problem. I mean I push the clutch in until it stops and sometimes it fires up and other times it won’t. Can’t u start in Neutral with a manual as well? Is there some kind of switch on the clutch when fully engaged to tell it to start? Thanks for a quick response as well
 
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 03:17 PM
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Yes, there is a switch on the clutch pedal assembly. Look up under the dash at the clutch pedal assembly. You will find it there.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Justin2912
.. Can’t u start in Neutral with a manual as well? Is there some kind of switch on the clutch when fully engaged to tell it to start?
Yes. You can start it in gear or in neutral. There is no sensor telling the computer if it in gear or not since you must have the clutch pedal depressed to start.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 02:54 PM
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RLA, my new friend I’ve got yet another issue to run by you seems how you have much knowledge of the F150’s. So my wife kids and I were just headed out to dinner in my 2008 F150 with the 4.9. The truck started hesitating at acceleration and the check engine light was flashing and then would stop, then as soon as I accelerated the check engine light would start flashing again. What do ya think? Misfire? Coil? Bad plug? The truck didn’t seem to run badly until I was in the gas and over 50mph. Thanks for any info man.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 02:56 PM
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Let me correct myself 4.6 my bad
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Justin2912
2008 F150 with the 4.9. The truck started hesitating at acceleration and the check engine light was flashing and then would stop, then as soon as I accelerated the check engine light would start flashing again. What do ya think? Misfire? Coil? Bad plug? The truck didn’t seem to run badly until I was in the gas and over 50mph. Thanks for any info man.
Yes. Any of the above is possible. That truck is OBD-II so check for codes. It can give you cylinder misfire codes for a specific cylinder. I believe the modular engines are coil on plug. Swap two coils and and drive to see if the misfire moves to a different cylinder or stays the same. That will tell you if it is the coil or the plug.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 07:09 AM
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Stop guessing why the Check Engine Light is turning on, get a code reader. A cheap ELM327 based bluetooth adapter and FORScan App are great inexpensive investments.A handheld dedicated OBD-II reader will also work for you.No need to spend a ton of money.Many parts stores can pull OBD-II codes for free,
 
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