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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Lower control arm bushing replacement

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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 09:32 AM
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Lower control arm bushing replacement

I noticed some heavy clunking when driving over road irregularities. Noticed that the bushing under the drivers side cab is shot for the lower control arm. I see bushings on Rockauto for +/- 2 degrees camber and some sold without (e.g. the hole is directly in the middle). Is this something thats easy to change in the driveway? Or does the whole suspension (springs, shocks, brakes) have to come undone to get at the bushing? Ordering brake lines as it is because the passenger side is rubbing against the spring. I didnt see a sway bar (my original thought to the clunking). Do these use torsion bars or sway bars? I dont get under the truck much and only drive it for errands that require the long bed.

On a separate note, I was having some WOT driveability issues where it felt like the carb was running out of fuel. Last fill up I used the Gumout Full system cleaner (looks like a knock off Seafoam can but cheaper). Cant say it did the trick, but I've gone WOT on the highway and from a stop without the engine going flat on me. Nothing else has changed...
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 09:46 AM
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Can you post a picture of this bushing you talk of because our trucks don't have lower control arms and as far as I know The only degree bushings you can get are for ball joints and used only when needed.

So the knock off sea foam worked is what you are saying?
Dave ----
I see rock auto I will have to look when on my pc
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 10:06 AM
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#12/13/15/16/17. I didn't know what else to call it specifically.

Yes, the knock off seafoam worked quite well.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 10:12 AM
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The arm is called radius arm and bushings radius arm bushings.
I did not know the bushings came as degree are you sure they are for our 80 - 86 trucks?
Who are you looking to buy them thru as I would like to see it.
Think I would go with 0 degree bushings.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 01:30 PM
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At the very bottom, Energy suspension has some "Radius arm" poly bushings for $18. The ones with adjustment look different than the cone shaped ones.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 04:57 PM
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If the large bracket #14 has rivets to the frame, you have two choices to change that bushing.

1. Drill and grind the rivets out and use bolts and nuts to bolt it back on or

2. The factory procedure is to take the radius arm nuts off where the bushing is located, take the shocks and a few other things loose, and with the truck supported by the frame, take a come-along and pull the whole frontend forward till the radius arm drops out of the radius arm support bracket 14.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 05:22 PM
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First time I have seen that
I did not look them up for my truck, 81 F100 as it came with poly radius bushings and did not need to replace them.
I did replace the rubber center pivot bushings with poly as part of the front suspension build.

The only way to know what one you would need is to put it on a machine to see what your caster is.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 07:55 PM
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The stock bushings are centered. The offset bushings must be a aftermarket "fix" for caster problems.

I was always afraid to run hard poly bushings in the radius arms. To me it needs the extra movement a softer rubber bushing would provide.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2019 | 08:46 PM
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I did it. It was not a real fun job. I removed the coil, unbolted shock and cranked on it with come-along. Be careful not to damage the radius arm threads like I did. First place to look for performance issues on a carb vehicle is...the carb and ignition systems.Check timing, vacuum, find lean best idle on carb. Whens the last time you had it tuned up?
 
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