I have a 66 Mercury M100. I have been plugging away at it for the last year ir so. I have now come to a crossroad. Here is the question is it better to fix or replace the cab. It has gotten worse mysteriously lol. I need to replace both pans, both cab mounts, and the mefal above the pans. Also the rear cab corners, and the cross frames underneath. The drivers side door frame also needs some work. I have not priced out all these parts but I wonder if a better used cab maybe a better bet. Does anyone know the price range of better used cabs. I dont mind some repairs needed. Thanks.

 

By the time you buy patch panels, spend all the time cutting them out, welding the new ones in. You have spent more on panels and don't forget the time that you put into fixing, welding them. You would be miles ahead by buying a rust free cab, and concentrate on the remainder of your project. Plus when you see the progress you have made, your enthusiasm level gets better and your project gets closer to the goals you have set. Prices will vary, 5-700 depending on your area. And you might even find some cheaper. Another option you can have one shipped to you, My buddy did it all the time.

 

Thanks for the reply. I am in southern Manitoba where there are few if any rust free cabs. I would probably need to take a trip to pick up one some where south. I do have some parts that I could use for trade if possible. Does any one know of a reputable place to look for a better cab?

 

I hear your pain, I'm in New England, there are NO rust free anythings here. My cab is ok I guess, I am doing the same work you are talking about, I already bought the parts, both floor pans, both mounts, 1 cab corner (drivers side), and the drivers door lower pillar post. Although it wont be fun, it is do-able. Good Luck.

Eric

 

I've seen nice cabs from Montana, Nevada, California, and Arizona.
Also, Alabama, Northern Mississippi, and Georgia. Ive seen whole parts trucks with decent cabs in Alabama going for 800 USD, complete trucks.

 

If you want to keep the same cab geometry with no cab steps and the newer style cab mounts, assuming that's what your 1966 M100 has, then if looking for a used cab you'd probably want one ideally from a 1965/66 F100/250 2WD or 1966 F100 4WD.

 

It would cheaper, faster, and easier to roll your frame under a body like this one:
https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/...029318402.html
Eric

 

It would be nice if he could find a rust free cab and I say "if" because when he does it will be $$$$ then you have shipping either he gets it or someone else so more $$$$ and this is all in 1 shot.
I am guessing he will be doing the installs of the patches?
If he was to do the patch panel route he could buy the pan & mount for 1 side get them installed and when he needs or has time get the other pan & mount.
It may be a month or 3 months but it is not a big hit in the pocket at 1 time.
If a shop is doing the installs then they would want all the panels at 1 time

and if so when all said and done he can say he did the work and that is a great feeling.
I know as I just got my 81 F100 flare side on the road after 4 years cab off rebuild.
I replaced the floors, rockers, cab corners, lower rear door posts and the lower inner & outer left door.
I also used a style side metal ribbed bed floor in place of the wood as I did not have the money ($1000 just for the cross braces the wood sits on, on a $800 truck)
I even did all the paint work myself. Only thing I did not do was press the king pin bushings in and the shop messed that up so I found when I went to put everything together.

It was a lot of work but I would do it again in a hart beat to say "I did all the work"!
Dave ----

 

Wonder if that could pass as faded Sprimgtime Yellow? The factory tilt steering makes it even rarer than me having two Mercury Rangers ha ha.