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Old Dec 1, 2019 | 10:52 PM
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compression pistons

Hello fellow FTE's
I'm preparing to buy a rotating assembly for my 460. Have a set of 95cc cylinder heads and want a final compression ratio of about 10:1. Unfortunately, most advertised compressions are either 9.5:1 or somewhere in the 11:1 range, nothing in between. I'm wondering approximately how much HP I'd be giving up per point on a 557 build? Anyone know the math equation for this? I'v been told it's somewhere in the 4% range, so I'm thinking approx. 23HP loss on this build, but don't know for sure. 23HP I can live with as I am planning on a later nitrous setup anyway. Any information you all have is greatly appreciated!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2020 | 10:01 PM
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nitrous doen\sn't like/need high compression if you want a lot of dope don'trun lots of compression, If you plan on a little dope and mostly motor mage sure you get that compression up to or over 10. problem is less than 10 you want to not go big on cam or it won't run. so milder all the way but that gets "doggy" in my experience meaning it isn't snappy, it isnt fast its more stockish in characteristic.I would shoot for 10+ or just spray the tar outof it.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2020 | 05:25 PM
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Thanks F-250 WARHORSE, The engine will be 557cid with a roller cam I saw on PowerNation build. A company emailed me that they have -22cc pistons(dished) that will give me 10.11 compression with a .040 gasket. As for the nitrous, Backing off the timing 4degrees per 100HP boost will keep me from detonating on the laughing gas. Also planning on using a limiting switch on it to keep the bottle only for mid-range-upper PRM. Running a spray bar set-up with 150-300 HP boost variable jetting. Spending GOBS of $$ on a 4340 forged crank, H-beam rods w/ stronger bolts, and forged pistons. Setting ring gaps for nitrous, but using total seal top and second rings, and using colder plugs. Figure at 10+ to 1, it should be peppy enough off the bottle, while having fun on the weekends with this set-up should yield around 1000HP on the funny gas. Thank you for your help! It's nice to finally get a response from someone. Isn't anyone else building 460's anymore for fun times!? My neighborhood seems to be inundated with "rice rocket" Hondas and Subarus! So sad these kids haven't had a chance to see real HP.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 09:13 AM
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What octane are you planning to use for this build? With the giant bore I would expect it to have detonation problems with a compression ratio of 10:1 on pump gas, but I have never built a big block 385 engine before, so that's just my speculation. I'm planning on a 454 build using a 370 truck block bored to 4.1 with a 4.3 stroker crank and 95 CC aftermarket aluminum heads to put in my '76 F250. The reason I'm going through all that trouble is because I want to be able to run on pump gas and get 12 mpg on the freeway (I'll settle for 10). Compression will end up right at 9:1 with flat tops. I'm not looking for high HP, but I want the torque peak to be close to 500 below 5K. I'm going to need custom pistons, so I could bump the compression up if needed, but I don't want to risk making it require race gas.

It sounds like you've built a big block Ford before. What was your experience with compression vs pump gas requirements?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2020 | 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 66v8baby
What octane are you planning to use for this build? With the giant bore I would expect it to have detonation problems with a compression ratio of 10:1 on pump gas, but I have never built a big block 385 engine before, so that's just my speculation. I'm planning on a 454 build using a 370 truck block bored to 4.1 with a 4.3 stroker crank and 95 CC aftermarket aluminum heads to put in my '76 F250. The reason I'm going through all that trouble is because I want to be able to run on pump gas and get 12 mpg on the freeway (I'll settle for 10). Compression will end up right at 9:1 with flat tops. I'm not looking for high HP, but I want the torque peak to be close to 500 below 5K. I'm going to need custom pistons, so I could bump the compression up if needed, but I don't want to risk making it require race gas.

It sounds like you've built a big block Ford before. What was your experience with compression vs pump gas requirements?
I think your taking the expensive way to make some power. IMO that bore is a little small for the stroke but then again I don't want to open up the age old bore vs stroke argument. I'm not too familiar with truck blocks, but I would wonder about accessories bolting up, deck height, water passages, etc.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2020 | 12:34 PM
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A 460 can run on pump gas with iron heads and a compression of 9.5:1. Higher than that and you'll start running into issues. With aluminum heads you can bump it up another point and be fine with pump gas, maybe even another point and a half. Aluminum dissipates heat much better than iron and this affects what kind of compression you can run. Granted, if you want to tow heavy loads, I wouldn't walk near the edge of detonation with regards to building your engine, but for a cruiser I don't see an issue. I'm not a professional engine builder, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2020 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Doosenberry
A 460 can run on pump gas with iron heads and a compression of 9.5:1. Higher than that and you'll start running into issues. With aluminum heads you can bump it up another point and be fine with pump gas, maybe even another point and a half. Aluminum dissipates heat much better than iron and this affects what kind of compression you can run. Granted, if you want to tow heavy loads, I wouldn't walk near the edge of detonation with regards to building your engine, but for a cruiser I don't see an issue. I'm not a professional engine builder, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
OK, thanks. I've built a lot of Windsors and an FE, but never a 385 big block and the giant 4.36 bore had me concerned. I use the same rule of thumb for building Windsors, but the largest bore size I've ever used was 4.04, and I destroyed the rings in a 408 Windsor stroker because I didn't use high enough octane gas.

This is for a truck that will pull an 8K lb trailer across the Appalachians, so it needs a lot of torque to go up the steep grades and not knock. If the 460 is good to go as is, then I'll just throw the parts on it I already have: RV cam, Wieand 8012 intake, Holley 735 cfm carb, aluminum heads and water pump. The F250 rides like a tank, but it's not going to be a daily driver, so I can live with it.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 66v8baby
What octane are you planning to use for this build? With the giant bore I would expect it to have detonation problems with a compression ratio of 10:1 on pump gas, but I have never built a big block 385 engine before, so that's just my speculation. I'm planning on a 454 build using a 370 truck block bored to 4.1 with a 4.3 stroker crank and 95 CC aftermarket aluminum heads to put in my '76 F250. The reason I'm going through all that trouble is because I want to be able to run on pump gas and get 12 mpg on the freeway (I'll settle for 10). Compression will end up right at 9:1 with flat tops. I'm not looking for high HP, but I want the torque peak to be close to 500 below 5K. I'm going to need custom pistons, so I could bump the compression up if needed, but I don't want to risk making it require race gas.

It sounds like you've built a big block Ford before. What was your experience with compression vs pump gas requirements?
I'm planning on 93 octane gas myself. may I suggest, the Weiand dual plane 8012 for your build? It makes to 4150 carbs, and flows better than the Edelbrock performer manifold. My last build was a .030 over 390 that ran 10.5:1 on 89 octane in a '74 F-100. It was heavy but managed 14's in the quarter. I built a 522 with DOVE heads quite a few years ago, using 300 truck rods on an offset ground crank, that did better but required 93 octane. It sounds like your build will require a RV type cam, with an X-type exhaust. I recommend headers, to move back pressure downstream as far as possible. You didn't say what aluminum heads you have, but smoothing the exhaust runners will help get you where you want to be. I believe in "overbuilding" the bottom end of any engine, as failures here are the most catastrophic and time consuming. Overhauls are usually less expensive in the long run as well. Aluminum heads run cooler, thus giving you a better safety margin against detonation, usually about 1 point. I hope this helps, good skills(luck has very little to do with engine-building) and patience, friend!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 07:57 AM
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I already have the Wieand 8012 dual plane, several Holley carbs and an RV cam with just a tad over .5 lift both intake and exhaust. I don't think you can compare a small bore FE 390 to the giant bore 429/460, but 10.5:1 on 89 octane is impressive. I would be afraid to try that myself, but it's good to know it can work. I built a 10.2:1, 408 Windsor stroker that destroyed the rings. I blamed it on using 89 octane gas, but the advance may have been too much. They may have also destroyed the rings on the dyno. They set the initial timing at 16 degrees, 36 total to make 537 at 5800. It had excessive blow by as soon as I installed it in my car.

Flame travel on the big bore 385 series takes much longer. Ford reduced compression and retarded timing in the 70s on the big blocks to survive on unleaded fuel which of course killed power. But it's easy to get a lot of that back by simply swapping in an aftermarket cam and installing it straight up. The heads are Chinese knock offs of the Edelbrock 60679 head but they were finished in the US (valve's and springs installed).
 
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