So I knew something like this was coming sooner or later....

I heard some popping noises today while driving around (slowly because there is snow every where) so I got under my truck to take a peek and found this:



Here's a little background on the truck:

1996 Bronco with a 7.3 Powerstroke
stock axles/modified stock driveshaft
zf 5 manual transmission

I believe this side of the truck has lost it's traction bar years ago and I never got around to replacing it (one of my traction bars is gone)... I'm guess that played a role in this. I have been relatively easy on the truck with the 7.3 swap but I'd imagine if I was being rough, this wouldn't be the part of the axle to normally break, but maybe I'm wrong.

So a few questions:

What year axles are a direct swap (not including 8 lug vs 5 lug)?
I'm thinking 80 to 97 (97 on the f250-350 only) as long as 3/4 to 1 ton axles are also a direct swap.

Is this possible for me to weld up for a temporary fix?
I have a small 120V Lowe's welder with 75/25 argon/co2. I'm not sure if that will cut it for an axle though.


Unfortunately the Bronco was my main mode of transportation right now. I have a 94 f-150 that blew a head gasket recently, and my 91 camaro is being worked on (since I'm mocking a turbo up to it, it's not running now...) Plus, the Camaro is not a good vehicle for snow here in Cheyenne..... My wife can probably bring me around a bit, and I could get a ride to and from Base thankfully, but I do want this fixed relatively soon..... I don't know if a head gasket/possible head work or a new axle is going to be cheaper...


Edit: The traction bar that fell off was on the passenger side, and this crack is on the driver's side so that may not be what caused this.

 

It looks like the spring perch is broken and not the axle tube. If the gear ratio of the 150 is the same as the Bronco it will be a bolt in swap.

 

Thanks for the reply! I was hoping it was just the mount but when I just went back and looked it appears that I can see into the tube when I looked closer. I'm pretty sure it's the tube itself that's cracked and not the mount. I was hoping to not take the axle off the F-150 because that's normally my daily driver (and will be once I get the head/head gasket situation fixed) but that may be what I do for now since I don't have a lot of money currently. It's completely covered in snow right now though so it's not going to be very exciting taking it off.

When I do go to get another axle, can I grab one from any 80's and up F-series truck (before they switched to the superduty style and round 97 F-250 style)?

My driveshaft is custom cut due to the different transmission length. I think I read that a 3/4 to 1-ton truck requires the driveshaft to be shortened if put in place (on top of dealing with the 8 lug bolt pattern/ changing wheels). I probably will stay away from that for now because I can't afford new wheels/tires either....

 

You are only going to find another 8.8 in a Bronco or F-150. I’m not sure when they started putting the RABS sensor in the rear but my ‘87 has one so maybe ‘86? The last Bronco was in ‘96 and the F-150 and light duty F-250 changed body style in ‘97 and the Expedition was introduced. As you can see from the forum group title there was a heavy duty F-250/F-350 that stayed with the older body style but they would have a Ford / Sterling 10.25 rear axle.

 

Just form a 2 inch wide U shaped strap using 1/4 steel bar and weld it to that riser and then to the bottom of the axle, for a quick temporary fix. Just don't enter any pulling contests.

 

Thanks for the replies! I managed to find someone selling an 88 f150 with no rust as far as the pictures seem and a good title for 500 about 2 hours away. The truck has no front grill/fenders/hood/motor or seat, but has everything else. It's 4wd and has a good bed tailgate and re end. The guy said he'd deliver it to me for 350!

So I can just take the axle from that, out it in my bronco, try and fix the axle in my bronco, then throw it back in that. I'll take the bed and tailgate for my rusted f150 that has a motor, then maybe fix this one up later down the road when I get some more money. It seems to be a pretty good deal so maybe things worked out! Id be tempted to do another 7.3 swap in the short bed single cab f150 since I have another 7.3 lying around, but I'm still not sure if it's any good or not.

 

Yes. Don’t use 4wd unless you know it is the same ratio that you currently have.

Well...once you determine that it is repairable.

 

i would not bother repairing that axle. if the gear ratio in the new axle is not the same as what you currently have, i would just put matching gears in the new axle.

 

I'm hoping the gear ratio is the same, but I'm not too sure. I haven't checked the gear ratio of my F-150 yet either. I suppose I could swap both the front and rear axles if the ratios are different, but I'm not sure how difficult swapping the front out is. I've heard it's very difficult to swap gear in axles, and I don't believe I have all the proper tools (presses and stuff) to do that either.

I believe my bronco has 3:55 gearing. I'll have the 88 F-150 and 94 F-150 to choose from so I'd imagine one of their axles should match!

I know the axle seems pretty shoddy, but I figure it's junk if I don't try fixing it so I think I'll mess around with it and throw it on one of the other F-150s (if the gear ratio match) and see how it holds up!

 

Well I don't know where I put the sticker on my Bronco for the axle code. I know I kept it but I had to take it off when I painted the truck. I will just up the axle and spin the tires to test the ratio before swapping, but I'm pretty sure that the ratio is 3:55 (old posts on these forums have me saying that).

Both the ratio in the F-150 I have, and the one that just arrived today are 3:55 so that's good news. The 88 F-150 I just got for 350 is actually in pretty good shape. It doesn't have the seats or engine, but everything else is there and beside s small dent in the driver side door, the body is in great shape. The axle code says the front and rear are limited slip in the 88 F-150, I don't believe that's the case for the Bronco or 94 F-150. Also, the tires are almost new as well as the wheels are in good shape. I got a super good deal for 350 delivered!

 

I posted in the powerstroke forums but I figured I'd share it here too!

This is what the axle looked like up close:




It's not going back on the Bronco that's for sure. However, I do have to throw it on the 88 F-150 I'm stealing the axle from so that body can roll around. The thing is, that truck is actually in really good shape. All it needs is a motor and battery and it could be a working 4wd truck again. Is this axle even worth attempting to repair so I can use that other truck as a beater truck around town? Either way, the axle has to get bolted back up to that truck if it is or isnt, so I kinda want to see if I can fix it.

 

Save time and effort by getting another axle and trashing that one. If you could get it cleaned inside and then welded, the heat of the welds will make the alignment of the axle housing change so bad it will eat bearings, and possibly brakes. ( I have seen that on an axle that had a 4 link suspension welded on by a jackleg )

 

I wouldn't try to repair that axle much, as mentioned. I think the best goal long term for you would be to get the HD axles that the 250's and 350's had. I know its going to suck because wheels and tires aren't cheap. But I can't imagine that new axle is going to last forever unless you baby the truck.

 

Yeah my goal is to get an axle off an F-250/350 for sure. I'll probably keep the TTB front end, and do the 8-lug swap. However, I think that's going to be a ways away.

I just got the donor F-150 in a spot in my yard where I can work on it/leave it for an extended time without being in the way of the driveway and not looking bad for my wife/neighbors! I think my plan is to try and band-aid this axle myself with the poor welding skill I have, then put it onto the 88 F-150 (while I take that truck's axle for my Bronco.) That way the F-150 can still roll around, and if I happen to get a motor for it in the junkyard, I can drive it for a little bit until I get a replacement axle.

 

if you try to weld that axle, make sure it is:
#1 empty and clean. you don't want any gear oil in there to catch on fire.
#2 weld area prepped with all cracks beveled to allow proper welding.
#3 preheated before welding, and also have a way to slowly cool it after welding.