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Hi, so I've never done anything like this, so be easy on me haha. I'm trying to find the EGR in my engine because the truck keeps dying on me during the first 20 minutes when I accelerate especially out of turns. I've read a lot of information and it appears that it could be a ton of different issues causing this. One I read was the EDR might not be working, or filled with gas causing the stall. Attached is a photo of my engine. Like I said be easy on me, i'm new to the world of older car repair. Thanks!
-Alex
Pull the air breather off and look at carb , most use a base under carb an a vacuum diaphragm in rear,,looks like the pictures below , May have to remove carb and clean the base spacer out , might be your issue might not be , but that's the egr and check vacuum
But man, what a really decent looking engine bay! I mean I can see that it has some mileage on it, but look at how clean it is in there, like the inner fenders and that "OK" stamping on the driver side valve cover.
My 73 390 has an EGR... mine was completely clogged up, cleaning the base all up and getting a new EGR did help my truck a little, but only a very slight amount.
But, I agree that this is probably a carb issue, probably the float. Now would be a good time to inspect the whole carburetor and possibly rebuild it. It's a fun experience if you've never done it and there are step by step videos on youtube. If you go this route, get a kit from Mike's Carburetor Shop.
Thanks all for responses! I had read that, yes, this model might not have an EGR. The last time I took it too the shop (who I am skeptical about) they adjusted the carburetor. But now that I have it back it still has trouble at the start and is losing power if not almost dying while trying to switch into second.
Then after a while it idles super high, which means I really have to keep my foot down on the breaks to keep it from launching forward at traffic lights.
Without pressing on the gas it can idle up to 35-40mph even after being “adjusted.”
Also thank you for the compliment regarding the engine. It only has 101,000 orig miles. I’m just really excited to fix this classic up!
Last edited by afsteven; Nov 28, 2019 at 11:49 PM.
Reason: Typos
Thanks for the app charts. When you guys say fuel dumping in turns, do you actually mean the truck is dumping fuel out onto the ground in turns? Because they also did mention it was low on gas even though I had just filled it before bringing it it. Conveniently the fuel gauge doesn’t work because the circuit board on back is fried on that part. I’ve got a new one coming in the mail.
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
EGR valves introduced in 1973 for all FoMoCo vehicles. Here's a pic of the application charts for EGR valves for 1973 F100/350 & Econoline.
1973/75 EGR/Carb spacer plates were aluminum, heat caused them to melt internally. In 1976, Ford replaced them with cast iron plates.
Thanks for the app charts. When you guys say fuel dumping in turns, do you actually mean the truck is dumping fuel out onto the ground in turns? Because they also did mention it was low on gas even though I had just filled it before bringing it it. Conveniently the fuel gauge doesn’t work because the circuit board on back is fried on that part. I’ve got a new one coming in the mail.
TWO different printed circuit boards for 1973/74 F100/350: With Oil/Amp GAUGES or with Oil/Amp WARNING LAMPS.
It sounds to me like wherever you took it just adjusted the carburetor, but probably didn't crack it open to look at it or rebuild it.
Go ahead and order a new EGR valve, a carburetor rebuild kit, and get some vacuum hose for your lines.
Mark/document every vacuum line's location, where it goes, and where it comes from.
Pull the carb off and rebuild it (if you aren't sure which one you have, pull your air cleaner off and snap some pics of the carb, especially the tag in front if it is still there). It probably has a layer of varnish in it that needs to be cleaned. You might also have some rust in there if your tank is dirty. You can set the proper float height, install a new accelerator pump, etc all at the same time. Probably the best 40-50 bucks you'll spend on it.
With the carburetor off you can pull off the EGR plate and clean it before reinstalling it and the new EGR valve.
Then go through the vacuum lines one at a time and replace.
If you are still trying to find your EGR it is attached to a spacer plate directly under your carberator. in the pic below the circled item is the EGR and it is on the firewall side of your carb.
you most likely have a float issue causing fuel to dump in turns.
1973 EGR
