On the trip down to Austin yesterday, I noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel when I applied the brakes. I could sense a slight vibration in the truck. I did not sense a vibration in the brake pedal. The truck's mileage is 110K. I replaced the OEM brake pads all around at 83K. The rotors looked good at that point and had minimum wear. If I need to replace the rotors I will use Wagner BD125715E rotors and if I need to replace the pads, I will use Wagner Thermoquiet 756 pads. I have used Wagner brake products for over 50 years and have been satisfied.

Several questions:
1. What's the current thinking on resurfacing the OEM rotors if there is sufficient metal on the rotors?
2. If I resurface, do I need to replace the front pads at the same time?
3. If I purchase new rotors, do I need to replace the front pads?
4. If I replace the front pads, do I need to replace the rear pads at the same time?

I am not looking for suggestions on the latest and greatest whiz bang product that I have never heard of. Your advice on the above four questions is appreciated. Everyone, have a great Turkey Day and a safe trip if you are driving.
__________________
2003 F250 Lariat, 6.0L, CC, SB, Fx4, ScanGaugeII, Glow Shift Fuel Pressure Gauge, Michelin Defender LTX's, Monroe Reflex Shocks, Extang Tonneau Cover, Bores SS Bumper Guides, Transfer Flow Fuel Tank, Fomoto Oil Drain Valve, Fomoto Engine Block Drain Valve, Magnafine Inline PS Filter, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, Blue Spring Upgrade, Prodigy Brake Controller, Bosch AL7606N Alternator.

 

1. If you have a place that can resurface accurately, and there is sufficient material left, then it can be done. But I’d probably replace the rotors unless they’re at “like new” thickness.
2. Yes
3. Yes
4. No, but check them for how much pax material is left

 

1. What's the current thinking on resurfacing the OEM rotors if there is sufficient metal on the rotors?

Rotors are designed for proper sizing at the minimum thickness, then service wear and re-machining thickness is added. The current thinking is that any rotor should be turned with an on-car lathe, not a bench lathe, to ensure minimal runout. A high runout develops into Disc Thickness Variation but off-brake wear from the brake pads, and it's the variation in thickness that causes the changes in braking pressure, the cause of pulsations.

The current thinking is when rotors are installed to index the rotors for the lowest runout possible, matching the hub runout to the rotor runout to achieve the lowest. Aftermarket rotors often have a hard time attaining those values, which in-service for the Superduty is 0.0015". They were built on the assembly line to 0.0010".

Machining also needs to be of a sufficient surface finish. I just bought a set of Raybestos rotors for one of our cars, it was no in OE spec. It took a while to obtain the best stopping distance.


2. If I resurface, do I need to replace the front pads at the same time?

That depends on how bad the scoring is. The rougher the finish, the longer the time to obtain the best stopping ability. As long as they are not bad, I personally can wait and let them wear in. But it's a judgment call.

3. If I purchase new rotors, do I need to replace the front pads?

As above.

4. If I replace the front pads, do I need to replace the rear pads at the same time?

That depends on how different the friction of the pads being installed is. The Superdutys have historically has the same friction material on both t e front and rear pads, balancing the braking in friction and letting the caliper sizing do the tuning. If they are close, they are fine. Usually, it's only when you go for performance or towing pads that the friction rating changes enough to change all the pads on the vehicle.

 

Short and sweet, your experiencing a warped Rotor , it will never go away untill you replace both sides, double check the drive links , tie rod ends aswell.

 

Thanks to all for your thoughts. Will be going with new pads and new rotors as resurfacing costs about $25 and Wagner rotors cost about $50+ each. Truck is going down to the Ford house for tire rotation and balancing soon so I will examine all the pads for wear and also check the suspension while they have it on the lift.Tires are Michelin and are fairly new so I don't contemplate problems with them.