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Im looking to buy an adjustable drop hitch for my stock 2019 F250, and looking for input. I've seen 8" drop mentioned often but was wondering how often that full 8" drop is actually necessary? Would a 6" drop be fine for 90% of trailers or is an 8" needed more often than I would think? I have no plans to ever lift the rear, but might step up tire size to a 35" in the future.
i normally tow my 5th wheel. On occasion I’ll rent a U-Haul trailer to hail furniture out of weather.
I bought a 6” drop Andersen Rapid Hitch. At the lowest position the U-Haul trailer rides a little nose high. An 8” would work better for me.
I am wondering which one you guys recommend. I’m looking for an adjustable drop for my truck f350 srw 4wd fx4 stx. I am looking for one that has a bunch of ball options and the pintle option
This CANT be right? The emergency break cable loops around where the hook n chain connect and then loops around the pin and hopefully the cotter pin keeps it from falling off? No way this is legal or proper!
Please, show me in a FMCSA sourced document, where this setup is improper. If it’s wrong, I’ll change it.
The reason I have it this way is because the break-away is longer than the safety chains. Thus, the loop back to the pin that holds the pin the adapter. It makes the length correct, for the brakes to engage upon major fubar. As far as being held on by a cotter pin, all the pins are held by cotter pins and these cotter pins aren’t standard, they are bent to keep them from separating at the open end or coming off without also being twisted while pulled. It’s a much better design. The loop on the break-away can’t go over the cotter pin, except one side at a time.
I had a couple MCSAP guys look at my rig (unofficially) and nothing was pointed out as problematic.
I am wondering which one you guys recommend. I’m looking for an adjustable drop for my truck f350 srw 4wd fx4 stx. I am looking for one that has a bunch of ball options and the pintle option
I was going to suggest Weigh-Safe, but since you mentioned a pintle, that rules out Weigh-Safe.
I went for the Wiegh Safe 8" drop. I still think a 6" would have been fine. Unloaded it sits 12.25" off the ground, they suggest no closer than 11" loaded.
I really like this hitch. 3" shank, 7" Drop, 3 *****.
This is also the setup I ended up and love it . B&W 3" - Stow and Go with 1 7/8" , 2" and 2 5/16" . I can use it on several trailers and it is very easy to adjust up or down or to rotate to a different sized ball .
I am wondering which one you guys recommend. I’m looking for an adjustable drop for my truck f350 srw 4wd fx4 stx. I am looking for one that has a bunch of ball options and the pintle option
Also, look at the Gen Y hitches. They look like the adjustable part is a forging. I dont know if thats the case orr not. The pintle set up looks really simple and effective. Also Bullet Proof looks well made.
Please, show me in a FMCSA sourced document, where this setup is improper. If it’s wrong, I’ll change it.
The reason I have it this way is because the break-away is longer than the safety chains. Thus, the loop back to the pin that holds the pin the adapter. It makes the length correct, for the brakes to engage upon major fubar. As far as being held on by a cotter pin, all the pins are held by cotter pins and these cotter pins aren’t standard, they are bent to keep them from separating at the open end or coming off without also being twisted while pulled. It’s a much better design. The loop on the break-away can’t go over the cotter pin, except one side at a time.
I had a couple MCSAP guys look at my rig (unofficially) and nothing was pointed out as problematic.
I don't disagree with shortening the distance the trailer has to pull away before the breakaway cable is pulled. I question how reliable the end of the cable is looped over the cotter pin. I could see a situation when it could come off. Obviously, it hasn't or you wouldn't be doing it that way. But it looks a bit sketchy.
I don't disagree with shortening the distance the trailer has to pull away before the breakaway cable is pulled. I question how reliable the end of the cable is looped over the cotter pin. I could see a situation when it could come off. Obviously, it hasn't or you wouldn't be doing it that way. But it looks a bit sketchy.
Next time you get through Kansas, stop by. We can have some beer or Scotch and you can yank my break-away cable. The gripple is more likely to fail than the loop manage to worm around the cotter pin.
Reading all these posts makes me wonder if a guy shouldn't run his tandem axle trailer through the truck scales. Wouldn't you want to know how the weight is distributed between the axles? If they are evenly balance ,but with a tongue down wouldn't that put more weight on the front tire and wear them faster than the rears?
Would a perfect world be even weight on both axles and 6 to 10 % the weight of the load on the hitch?
Also, look at the Gen Y hitches. They look like the adjustable part is a forging. I dont know if thats the case orr not. The pintle set up looks really simple and effective. Also Bullet Proof looks well made.
So on this subject, if anyone needs a nice 3" receiver drop hitch, I bought the B&W 3" receiver drop hitch, then ended up getting a torklift magnum super hitch that uses a 2 1/2" drop hitch. I will include the link to amazon. I have this hitch brand new out of box I'll sell someone for $275 shipped. Should save you around $65. It has never had a trailer hooked to it. Like new.
My boat trailer on 16" wheels needs 2" drop, but my 6x12 enclosed cargo trailer needs a full 10" drop, to be level. So i went with the Weigh Safe 10" drop, mine is a 2020 F350, 3" receiver, drawbar is rated at 21K. Hard the 2.5" version on my 2012 F250, it worked great.