When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Also... a little too high is better than low. I never worried too much and as long as your landing gear doesnt top out before lifting the hitch off your ball your fine. Unless your so high causing your front axle to unload and lock the wheels under braking.
BINGO and you get chance to spin the cash wheel.
To low in the center between rare of truck and front of the trailer, would do WHAT if the hitch hit an obstacle? Transfer the impact to the rear of truck and front of trailer thru the hitch assembly. How do you spell catastrophic results?
The same scenario only the obstacle hit the very rear of the trailer, bang your bent, you pull over under control and inspect the damage from that large chunk of concrete that fell out of the truck in front of you...rear is bent, you keep driving.
Originally Posted by NCF250OWNER
I have a stock 17 F250 with 18 inch wheels. I measured and needed a 6 in drop to level my trailer. Bought a Weighsafe 8in drop and it’s fantastic.
Bought same same from E Trailer that was a RETURN, saved BooKoo bucks. E trailer has a lot of this stuff folk buy, use one to move the family from NYC to Texas and then ship it back for a refund inside the return window. IIRC I save about $100 or so, I got the full 3" with weight scale, LOVE IT...
I would never run a homemade on the public roadway. There is a lot of stress on the ball (mine is rated at 16k). If it fails, I need deeper pockets than mine being the target.
have you found that scale to be somewhat accurate?
Originally Posted by 17 Oaks
BINGO and you get chance to spin the cash wheel.
To low in the center between rare of truck and front of the trailer, would do WHAT if the hitch hit an obstacle? Transfer the impact to the rear of truck and front of trailer thru the hitch assembly. How do you spell catastrophic results?
The same scenario only the obstacle hit the very rear of the trailer, bang your bent, you pull over under control and inspect the damage from that large chunk of concrete that fell out of the truck in front of you...rear is bent, you keep driving.
Bought same same from E Trailer that was a RETURN, saved BooKoo bucks. E trailer has a lot of this stuff folk buy, use one to move the family from NYC to Texas and then ship it back for a refund inside the return window. IIRC I save about $100 or so, I got the full 3" with weight scale, LOVE IT...
I would never run a homemade on the public roadway. There is a lot of stress on the ball (mine is rated at 16k). If it fails, I need deeper pockets than mine being the target.
Hey FOLKS check out this hook up:
Chains crossed and under the truck-trailer connection
Chain hooks hooked and facing towards the trailer
Break Away brake switch wire passed thru the chain and connected to the hitch securely
Use of Grade 8 bolts to attach the hitch to the trailer
Trailer hitch latch/unlatch properly set and pinned
I love it when I see a proper truck to trail attachment and this is one!!!
Originally Posted by Frank79
have you found that scale to be somewhat accurate?
Yes I would say it accurate based upon my observation.
I have different trailers and use between 4"-8" of drop all the time. My utility trailer (7x12), I have to use the full 8" of drop of my hitch and it's still not completely level. With my bumper pull RV, I use roughly 4" drop since it's much heavier.
I don't want to take this too far off topic, but quick question. I always replace the emergency breakaway cable with the red fastway bungee type ones. I hook it to the same place the safety chains go. Is that incorrect? Been towing trailers for many years, but do not claim to be an expert by any means.
Originally Posted by 17 Oaks
Hey FOLKS check out this hook up:
Chains crossed and under the truck-trailer connection
Chain hooks hooked and facing towards the trailer
Break Away brake switch wire passed thru the chain and connected to the hitch securely
Use of Grade 8 bolts to attach the hitch to the trailer
Trailer hitch latch/unlatch properly set and pinned
I love it when I see a proper truck to trail attachment and this is one!!!
Yes I would say it accurate based upon my observation.
That’s fine. As long as the pin will pull if the trailer breaks away it’s good. Some folks just hook them to the chain so if the chain breaks, the wire will not pull the brake pin and that is not good. Out here in CA, the CHP will sometimes ride up and look at your setup and if it’s not correct (like the pic posted), they will pull you over. We also have a 55 mph speed limit while pulling a trailer although, most folks ignore this...
This CANT be right? The emergency break cable loops around where the hook n chain connect and then loops around the pin and hopefully the cotter pin keeps it from falling off? No way this is legal or proper!
I have a carabiner attached to my receiver (to the left of the left shackle), So if something fails, the cable will still be able to pull the EM brake. This needs to be isolated from everything else.
Originally Posted by 17 Oaks
Hey FOLKS check out this hook up:
Chains crossed and under the truck-trailer connection
Chain hooks hooked and facing towards the trailer
Break Away brake switch wire passed thru the chain and connected to the hitch securely
Use of Grade 8 bolts to attach the hitch to the trailer
Trailer hitch latch/unlatch properly set and pinned
I love it when I see a proper truck to trail attachment and this is one!!!
Yes I would say it accurate based upon my observation.
Frank79, I'm with you. I wouldn't attach the breakaway cable like was in that picture. I certainly wouldn't run it through the safety chains.
I have the 3" receiver. On the driver side of where the shank goes in, there is a small hole inside the opening where the safety chain goes. That's where I attach the carabiner for the breakaway cable. My carabiner is the screw type and it's rated for at least a thousand pounds.
I don't want to take this too far off topic, but quick question. I always replace the emergency breakaway cable with the red fastway bungee type ones. I hook it to the same place the safety chains go. Is that incorrect? Been towing trailers for many years, but do not claim to be an expert by any means.
You want it attached securely on the truck/hitch side. Almost all failures occur on the trailer side. As the truck side hitch is held in by a single pin if forgotten it falls out as you pull away. If the safety pin falls out there is so much force applied to the pin it would take some time for it to work itself out because no matter which way the truck moves force is applied to the pin.
Frank79, I'm with you. I wouldn't attach the breakaway cable like was in that picture. I certainly wouldn't run it through the safety chains.
I have the 3" receiver. On the driver side of where the shank goes in, there is a small hole inside the opening where the safety chain goes. That's where I attach the carabiner for the breakaway cable. My carabiner is the screw type and it's rated for at least a thousand pounds.
any reason why the cable should not be intertwined within the chain?
when I bought my trailer that’s how mine came.
should I make them separate?
any reason why the cable should not be intertwined within the chain?
when I bought my trailer that’s how mine came.
should I make them separate?
The reason why it intertwined thru the cable is to prevent the cable from"
Getting cut while driving and maneuvering, if it gets cut it does no good.
To ensure that the chain protects it see above and that the cable does not get caught while maneuvering and it pulls the plug. You are in a turn at an intersection, you make the turn and loose cable catches on something and pulls the plug, now you got a situation in a major intersection.
If you have not pulled the plug on it, try it. It does not take not a whole lot of effort.
You can leave it in the chain, I DO or take it out and let it flop around on its own, your choice...
One of my Pet-Peeves when I'm Towing is Hearing the infamous " Clunk " when I Stop & Start ..
My experience with Aluminum Hitches is, after some time, that beautiful machined piece of Aluminum Art
begins to wear, becomes sloppy. That lends to the " Clunk " more so than Steel Hitches, like B&W's do not.
