I have a 03 gmc 1500hd with torque converter problems. 160k on the pickup.
If it's the torque converter it's about $1300 used trans installed is about $2k new trans is $4500+
So I was thinking about maybe just trading it off.
I would be looking at a F250/F350 Crew cab 4z4 short bed auto trrans.
My question I guess is 5.4 or 6.8? I do not tow that much.
My pickup currently has a arm bale bed on it. Which is heavy
I would put this bed on the ford if I go that way.
Also 2 valve or 3 valve?
I know the 2 peace spark plugs have been a problem. I have also herd that cam phasers can be a problem and expensive.
My dad had a 99 v10. not a lot of power and poor gas mileage.
Now he has a 05 5.4. More power and maybe better on gas.
Any thought or experience would be great.
thanks

 

I have '06 5.4 F-250 SC 8FB Power and reliability for me w/5.4 has been great.

 

OMG avoid the 3V's like the plague. We're on a Ford forum so I'm gonna be flamed but there's no excuse for the short longevity of the 3V valvetrain, and time and expense to service it properly.

Your GM 6.0 will go 400k with nothing but oil changes and plugs every 100k. So will the 2V Tritons for that matter, they'll just have less power and drink more gas doing it.

BUT step into 3V land and you won't get to 200k before you've got valvetrain noise, and THE NUMBER ONE RULE (other than "Don't talk about Fight Club") is open 'er up THE SECOND noise starts. Every start after that is causing damage that will accelerate exponentially.

​​​​​​To do it right is thousands to a shop or a VERY long weekend DIY. Watch Ford tech Makuloco on YT, he's got step-by-step vids.

And before someone says I'm a GM guy, my current vehicles insured and registered by me:
'07 F150 -dodged a bullet and got the last of the 2V 4.6
'08 F150 - 3V 5.4 with 108k mi right now, will likely just sell it off when it gets noisy
'11 F350 - THIS is the ticket, skip to the 6.2, seriously
'19 Wrangler JL - 'cause FCA quality is a new laugh everyday, but it's my play toy

Seriously, avoid the 3Vs, try to swing a 6.2, or go gutless and thirsty with a 2V

 

A few years back the local dealer put a new 4L60E in our old '05 Yukon, 100k mi warranty, $3200 and all I did was write the check. It was actually a few hundred cheaper than a Jasper from an indy.

I love DIY but I wanted the warranty more

I might just fix your GM, at 160k there's a ton of life left in that motor (with pushrods -- WHAT!?!?!). I know being an HD you've got either the 4L80 or wasn't there a 4L65? but that could account for the higher prices

 

Oh and wendal if you do keep the GM watch your t-case for pump rub ("ah hah! See see see GM's suck! Yes they do!" say the Ford fanatics). It's an easy fix and if you've got the trans out it's a great time to get after it.

Also, if you have the NV261 (manual shift) or NV263 (electric shift) check your fluid level. Those cases cook off their ATF and no one really knows why. Refill w 5W-30 and never look back.

Now if you have anything that says Auto you've got the NV246 and you don't have to worry about cooking fluid (but ya gotta use the AutoTrak fluid OR Valvoline "Transfer Case Fluid" - I'm sitting on a half case from when TSC blew it out at .88/qt )

edit: and I'll remind the Ford guys that the BW1356 suffered from almost EXACTLY the same pump rub problem, the only difference being it stayed 100% internal so ya never knew 'til it cooked itself

 

my 4x4 control are on the dash on the left, above the light switch.
It has 4L 4H 2L I think and a auto button.
Funny thing is I just had the trams and transfer case old changed this summer.

 

I'm not a fan of the 5.4L in an F250/350. It's great in an F150 though. I wouldn't steer away from a V10, they aren't bad at all.

 

Had the V10 in my 2000. Sold it with 134,000. Only issue was the manifold bolts. Towed a 32 Jayco, no problem. I had the manual tranny. If they offered the V10 on the 2016 350, I would have ordered it in a heartbeat. I changed oil and filter every 10 k, Mobile 1.

 

I'm at 215,000 miles on my 6.8 3V and she is whisper quiet with original valvetrain. Idles like its brand new-- perfectly smooth.

The "plague" guy above knows nothing, obviously.

-- Dave

 

The 3-valve V10 engines are fixed cam engines. They do not use phasers that the 5.4L 3-valve V8 engines use, and therefore don't have the issues described above. As for concerns regarding spark plugs on the 3-valve engines, Ford changed the design of them on later 2008 and newer model year engines to address that issue.

 

So what?

For engine life longevity, performing maintenance on top end of engine at 200k should be welcomed, not avoided. There's nothing wrong with refreshing parts that may be consumed (wear and tear) after so many years and miles. Repeating myself, I find the 5.4 to be a great engine. It runs like a Swiss watch, and with proper scheduled regular maintenance I expect that it will continue to do so. Catastrophic damage can usually be avoided with proper care and maintenance. Big problems don't usually just crop up, they manifest from neglected minor issues.

 

My 2008 3V V10 dropped a valve at 157k, scarred the cylinder wall and thus effectively destroyed the motor.

The roller seized, flatted the cam, and eventually the keeper or arm broke, dropping the valve.

Now, presumably the motor was making some noise leading up to this. If it was, it was not egregious and something that wouldn't be cause for huge concern in most motors - merely an indication of some wear. Whatever noise it was making didn't register with me. Now I know to listen to the 3V's very carefully.

In this instance, I worked with the former senior tech for Conoco/Phillips who used to maintain a fleet of 3V Fords. I was a little surprised Conoco would do such extensive engine work in-house, but apparently they did 'cause this guy did timing sets on their payroll all the time. The tech told me if he could catch the motors when they very first started making noise (generally cold start-up), there was hope. If it went on too long they'd have to just install a reman. Either a Ford or Jasper reman came in around $11k installed by the shop (advisable only to maintain warranty vs DIY), and I just couldn't justify $11k into a truck where I had paid $9k a couple years before.

Beyond that, there's just zero reason to strive for a 3V V10 (I had 4.10s and 5R110). They wheeze and struggle and work so hard compared to the 6.2 (I have 4.30 and 6R140). A tune might help the V10 just so it actually tries to do something before ~75% throttle, ala a "Pedal Commander" type of thing. But basically the V10 is binary - floored (and still struggling) or nothing.

I respect the 2V V10's solely 'cause they'll go forever, but beyond that I don't know what Team TFI was ever thinking with the V10, they've got the driveability of a small block V8 while getting the mileage of a carb'd 460.

Flame suit on; I'm just not big on defending products based on brand loyalty. If something is awesome, I'll call it awesome. If something sucks, I'll say it sucks no matter who made it.