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I installed a 12" light bar recently. It is wired to an upfitter switch, and grounded to the frame near the bar, which is mounted where the front license plate goes. The light was a cheap one from Amazon, but it works great with once exception. When I turn the light on, it causes interference (static) with the FM radio. No problems with satellite. I've read that some type of RF "filter" can be installed to eliminate this, but have precious few details on what, where, how to do that. Anyone have any ideas?
Not sure specifically on the Ford, but on a couple of aftermarket installations I had, I had to run a separate filter for each channel back to the kicker 4 channel amp I had. Chances are, by the time you're done adding filters, it would have been cheaper to buy a quality light bar with built in shielding.
I installed a 12" light bar recently. It is wired to an upfitter switch, and grounded to the frame near the bar, which is mounted where the front license plate goes. The light was a cheap one from Amazon, but it works great with once exception. When I turn the light on, it causes interference (static) with the FM radio. No problems with satellite. I've read that some type of RF "filter" can be installed to eliminate this, but have precious few details on what, where, how to do that. Anyone have any ideas?
Try running the light bar ground directly to the negative battery terminal.
Try replacing the cheapo light bar with a quality LED light from KC Hilites. The cheapo LED light bar on my work truck doesn't put nearly as much light as my KC lights on my F250. They also put out a much more even pattern whereas the cheapo light bar has a washed out too bright center. The higher you mount the light the better it will illuminate the ground in front of you, this won't make a difference on your radio noise. That is caused by cheap electronics.
Try running the light bar ground directly to the negative battery terminal.
I second this. Grounding to the frame worked with older halogen or HID lights but LED's not so much. They would like a direct ground to the battery or existing under hood ground terminal.
Try replacing the cheapo light bar with a quality LED light from KC Hilites. The cheapo LED light bar on my work truck doesn't put nearly as much light as my KC lights on my F250. They also put out a much more even pattern whereas the cheapo light bar has a washed out too bright center. The higher you mount the light the better it will illuminate the ground in front of you, this won't make a difference on your radio noise. That is caused by cheap electronics.
Nothing says and no evidence to support blurting out that an expensive light bar wont interfere with the radio as well. It could be the location of where the ground is attached and have nothing to do with the number of Dollars spent.
I've read that some type of RF "filter" can be installed to eliminate this, but have precious few details on what, where, how to do that. Anyone have any ideas?
Buy some of these to clamp around the power wire at the light bar. The closer, the better. Not sure what diameter you need. So here's a multi-size pack
Try running the light bar ground directly to the negative battery terminal.
This! Ground directly to the battery negative terminal first. If that does not work then you can try the RF chokes, but that's no guaranteed solution either.. Lesser light bars have LED driver circuits that can be very noisy. You may end up chasing your tail trying to quell the noise. Ultimately the solution may end up being the purchase of a better light bar. Good luck.
The cheapo LED bulbs I used in my RV trailer messed with the trailer's radio reception. They may also have affected my cell signal. I ended up replacing the entire fixtures and they came with a better (different?) quality bulb that didn't cause radio reception issues.
Nothing says and no evidence to support blurting out that an expensive light bar wont interfere with the radio as well. It could be the location of where the ground is attached and have nothing to do with the number of Dollars spent.
Can see you have not been around much...Cheap don't good and good don't come cheap.
If you are getting RF then your source could be from the bulbs, wiring, transformer or the ballast. It used to be a real issue at one time. Especially in Corvettes with its fiberglass body, so the spark plug wires were enclosed in metal sheathing and there was a large metal box covering the distributor-points and coil...if any of that means anything to you.
If you are using LED, then this is not a rare occurrence with the cheap ones..
Or, as I've seen posted here a time or two: Pay once, cry once.
Life has taught me that to often many step over dollars in order to pick up pennies.
Back my day you could go into a Auto parts store and see a jillion things that said 'fits all cars' or "Universal fit" . I learned to throw that stuff down. Universal Fit just means it fits NOTHING in this universe...
Nothing says and no evidence to support blurting out that an expensive light bar wont interfere with the radio as well. It could be the location of where the ground is attached and have nothing to do with the number of Dollars spent.
My evidence comes from first hand experience. I have quality KC lights on 4 different vehicles and not a problem to be had. They are on my 2019 F250 aluminum truck, my 2001 Chenowth off road car, my cousins 2019 Taco steel truck, and our 1973 Class 11 Baja Bug. Those four vehicles are different enough to show that the lights work well under a variety of conditions.
So from my experience you can live with the cheapo light bar because it's not really causing that much trouble, or you can upgrade your lighting and see what a difference it makes.
Not that it matters, but I have 4 other "cheap" LED lights from Amazon (Auxbeam is the brand - same as my new light bar) - 2 back up lights, 2 undercarriage side lights, that were wired the same way and none of those cause any interference. I have been quite happy with all of them. I will certainly put a little effort into making what I have work before I spend $200 for a new light. I'll try wiring the ground directly to the negative battery terminal, and if that doesn't help, will try the RF filters. Appreciate everyone's input.
Great...I would like to find out what solves the problem.
Not everyone needs fancy lights, depends on what you are doing with the truck. I like the distance the KC lights provide because I do some off road racing and this F250 spends time on remote rural roads with no or very little traffic.