Can you see a pattern here? Every part I got to look at I have a question on!

So, looking at a thermostat ... and a water pump.

WOW .... last time I went to a parts store, I asked for a thermostat ... they handed me one and I was happy.

Rock Auto .... 45 chooses !!!!!!!!!!!

First ... for a 1986 4.9 in a f-150 what is the correct temperature ... I am thinking it is 195 ?

I tried to read a few posts ... "use only Motorcraft" ... use only AC ... use only gates ... Stant "superstat" ..... everyone has an opinion!

Rock Auto (just since I am getting a bunch of parts from them) has a Motorcraft 192 (don't list a 195 ... not that 3 deg would matter) for $10.

On the other end of the spectrum ....Stant premium (private label) 192-195 .... $.85

Water pumps have way less choices ... 5 pumps $20 - $32. GMB, Airtex, Gates, ACDelco, Cardone. The only difference I see in any of them is the AC Delco one has an extra port in the pump inlet (looks like a tapped hole and it comes with what looks like a plug).

Is one really different from another? Does $12 extra $'s .. or $9 in the case of the thermostat ... make it a "better" unit?

Thanks again !!!!!!!!!!!

Mike

 

I wouldn't skimp or cheap out on a thermostat, nor try to outguess the engineers. Lots of crappy cheaply made parts these days. It is an important component. All the engine tuning specs assumes a normal operating temperature, this is esp. important with computerized engine controls and fuel AFR but it's the same with carburetors. 192° F. should be factory temp, the shop manual has this information.

They designed the engine to warm up as fast as possible to normal operating temperature and stay there, by sizing the radiator & cooling system and other parts as a total package. I like doing maintenance but I don't like "callbacks", the cheap ones may tend to have issues - either they stick open or they stick closed, or are open far earlier than their rated temp etc. Also important if you want good cabin heat.

 

For either part, stick with a reputable name brand and you should be okay. Avoid the store brands from discount chains. Expect some regret there, not worth the few bucks you might save initially.

With thermostats, I've had enough bad ones recently that I will test them before installation. Hang the new one on a piece of wire and submerge it in a pot of water on the stove. Use a candy thermometer (or similar) to verify the temperature when the thermostat is fully open. I haven't had any trouble with my truck's thermostat, but I did get two bad ones in a row for my car. I'm glad I tested them before installation.

 

Motorcraft, or "reputable name brand"? This is the problem, the old names were bought out or offshored production. They aren't the same quality. I'd still test any T-stat before installation no matter who made it. Too much of a hassle messing with coolant & gaskets and the rest of it due to a defective .85c part. Especially this time of year.

 

Can’t remember exactly, but I think one was Motorcraft and one was Stant.

Guess that contradicts my earlier statement to stick with a reputable name brand. Maybe I should have just said your odds are better, that’s all. Definitely stay away from the bargain brands and take the ten minutes to test before installing.

 

I'll plus one the boiling water test. It is fun to watch it start opening when you reach the target temperature.

I have been using the MotoRad Fail Safe thermostats. When temps get really high (couldn't get my stove hot enough to test what temp), the stat will open past a couple of tabs on either side and snap into place to keep it open. I had an experience with one when I had a core plug leak on me. Found the thermostat stuck open. Already gotten a replacement one but unlocked my original and re-tested it and worked fine opening right on temperature.

 

Get a good one as mentioned. 195 should be good if you want factory temp. If you have a 4 barrel carb and its built for power a lower thermostat will provide more power but that's another topic.

 

Drag racers will put ice on the intake, keep the fuel cold, stuff like that. Running a colder thermostat for "more power" sounds iffy to me. The SAE found decades ago that cylinder wear is reduced by 50% going from 180 to 190 thermostat. Ford went to 190 about 1960, this was why they were able to extend oil change intervals to 6,000 miles. This was a big deal at the time. I think dyno testing would show more power with a 195 than a 180 deg. thermostat, better fuel economy, less sludge, etc.

 

Motortrend recently did a bunch if A-B dyno testing. Heated or ice covered intake, thermostats, and hot or cold fuel. Manifold temperature made no difference, cold fuel added some power and a cold thermostat added big power. However it was also on a v8 with good heads.

But lowering the thermostat for performance will add some wear, the oil wont burn off contaminants as good and shortens change intervals, lowers milage etc. Some of those SAE studies done about cylinder wear vs temperature were in 1936, a lot has changed in oils, rings, block materials etc since then so I dont know how much I'd worry about it. I lower my thermostat in the summer for a bit more power and I can keep fuel octane lower, but I have amsoil zrod synthetic oil so I dont worry much about wear.

Go with a 195 thermostat for a normal 300 unless you've built it for performance and want every bit out of it.

 

Yeah, it illustrates to me very common errors in thinking, drag racing has specialized parts, tuning, and techniques. Just because it's a great idea for people who rebuild their engine after every race doesn't mean it's a good idea for a street driver.

Running an engine colder doesn't make more power, it DOES allow the ignition timing to be advanced. See the difference? "The rest of the story". It makes sense for drag racing, high compression, running high octane juice at $10 a gallon. Not for a grocery getter.

 

Well, at 33 years old, I don't think I will be pushing much power out of this old 6

On the other hand, it still plows snow great!

Since the engine is out, I am just trying to make it as reliable as I can ... putting in new gaskets (real main and pan are leaking) ... new oil pump (clean the pick-up screen), cam gears, water pump and thermostat ... along with a new clutch.

The rest I can get easily from up top later if need be.

Thanks .... Mike

 

Kinda reminds me of that time I upgraded to a steering gearbox that was NASCAR approved. Didn't work out well on the street as it only let me turn left.

 

Very funny!

 

The Stant Superstats seem to be the best made. You'll notice it's generally heavier and feels nicer than whatever you had in your vehicle, be it Motorcraft or any other. They seem to never get stuck, and work great in both hot and cold climates (I live in Saskatchewan, +40C to -40C).

Waterpumps seem to be hit and miss. I've seen whitebox reman pumps last forever, I've seen ones from the dealer last for a week. I just use whatever has the best warranty, and I lean towards a new one unless the price difference is ridiculous. Right now I have a Napa Premium line pump on my '90 5.0, and a Motorcraft one on my '86.

At my shop, we steer clear from Cardone(all their stuff seems to leak) and noname stuff. Whitebox only if we have to. Napa's premium line seems pretty good, but I've used some nice Auto Xtra and other off brands that seem good too. Only one way to find out.

 

The best thermostats are from Robertshaw bar none the design of the stats makes them longest lasting of the bunch. Stant can be hit and miss now as not all their product is made in the U.S and some of it is of rather dubious quality from China.
MotoRad is an OEM for the manufactures and their stuff is all over the map in terms of quality but that is not random, they have 3 levels/teirs of quality within their product line up from economy/budget (cheap in both quality and price) to their top of line stuff which is the OEM stuff. So with Motorad get what you pay for.