Hey guys,
I bought a new Curt hitch for my 1990 F250 7.5L because I discovered the old Husky class III hitch broke. I'm the second owner and the PO towed a 26' travel trailer that he said weighed 6,000 lbs. The Husky hitch was rated for 5,000 lbs or 10,000 lbs if using a weight distributing hitch. No idea if the PO used a WD hitch. I only towed with it 3-4 times, maybe about 6,000 lbs max. I never noticed any issues or the hitch break until I started to do some rust treatment on the frame. The break is definitely not new, lots of rust in the break.

My problem is the new hitch won't use the same mounting holes already drilled in the frame. The Curt hitch comes with some square washers/blocks. The rear-most and front-most mounts are supposed to use the blocks on the topside of the frame, the middle mount uses both top and underside blocks. The hole for the rear mount can't be used as it because with the block up against the frame cross member, the holes don't line up. If I enlarge the existing hole, it only leaves about 1/4" of frame remaining until the frame edge. Is this remaining 1/4" sufficient?

Pics:
Old broken hitch at left rear-most mount. Note the gap under the washer. It does not sit flush against the frame rail because the washer is up on the cross member.


Rear-most part of frame rail with existing mount hole. Note the curved cutout of the frame edge - I assume it comes that way from the factory. Same on both sides.


New hitch mounting washer/block up against the frame cross member and left frame rail. Washer can't go farther left because the frame curves upward. If I drill the mount hole large enough for the square block, that only leaves about 1/4" of metal remaining until the frame edge. Cut or grind the washer to make it go farther left and forward?

 

I would split the difference on both spots. Otherwise you're leaving just 1/4" to shear forces on the steel.

 

I ground the head off the rivet, then popped it out, for that rear cross member then used that hole to bolt on the hitch for my last three OBS trucks. Same hitch, three different truck: (2) 1993 F150, 1992 F350.

 

Honestly if thats an option for that hitch that'd be way better than risking that 1/4" steel.

 

I thought about that but was concerned about removing that stock rivet. If I do that the square block won't sit flush on the frame, since it will be up on the cross member. I may need to fill that gap with some steel. I think these blocks are supposed to distribute the load for the hitch on a wider frame area.

 

I would rather have that rear hole where the rivet is versus drilling out the hole you were asking about. I had to make the same decision as you are with the same hitch. I figure two layers of steel sandwiched between the hitch and the square washer out weighs the concern of the washer not fully contacting the frame/cross member. If you are that concerned then go find a few pieces of steel to use as filler where the washer overhangs the cross member.

I used the truck/hitch to pull my 18 foot utility trailer with a Bobcat 642B loaded on it. No issues with any of the three trucks I mounted that hitch to. Then I sold the last truck, left the hitch and brake controller in it

 

I got the hitch installed. I ended up removing the rivet for the cross member and using that hole. I was then able to use 2 of the existing holes from the prior hitch so I just had to drill 2 new holes.

 

Glad to see you got this project completed.

 

. D e l e t e d .