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I finally bit the bullet and am overhauling the audio in my truck, mostly because I spend so much time in it so I might as well enjoy it more.
I have a 2018 F-250 Limited with the Sony system. I’m not doing this myself: went to a reputable local deal in NorCal.
For those of you that might be interested, I’m going to post the pictures they send me as they rip her apart and put her back together. Here is the basic build:
1. Sound deadening and vibration reduction - rip it all down to metal and apply
2. Audiofrog speakers (GB components in the front woofer/tweeter, and GS coaxial in the rear doors)
3. JL Audio VXi 8X100 ... 200 to each front woofer, 100 each to the front tweeters and rear coaxials)
4. JL Audio VXi 1000 for the sub. The subs will be 2X 10” Audiomobile Evo 10’s in a custom cabinet that takes up the entire space behind the rear seats. I wanted to preserve most of the space under the rear seats. The passenger rear under seat space will have the stacked amps.
5. PAC Audio unit with optical add-on to connect to the Ford head unit data bus
6. A switch to control the sub volume, amp gains, and to switch between driver-optimized (time aligned etc.) and “full passenger optimized” sound profiles.
Here are a few initial pictures of the sound insulation/vibration reducing layers being applied. WIll update as I get more pics.
What happened to the good ole days where you could just buy another unit, disconnect the old one and plug in the new one. Sony sucks, and so does any other brand that has to use all the non-standard BS. I mean, if you're going to make it such a PITA to change it, don't make what you put in there suck so bad to start out with. Sony and Bose are way over-rated. And BM BO, whatever they are too.
What happened to the good ole days where you could just buy another unit, disconnect the old one and plug in the new one. Sony sucks, and so does any other brand that has to use all the non-standard BS. I mean, if you're going to make it such a PITA to change it, don't make what you put in there suck so bad to start out with. Sony and Bose are way over-rated. And BM BO, whatever they are too.
End rant. :-)
There’s really no need to remove the stock head unit on many vehicles these days because they have all the features of an aftermarket unit and on many vehicles, the stock head unit can’t be removed.
With that being said, the Sony head unit is better than you think plus, the OP is using a PAC interface which connects between the head unit and amps.
That interface will all him to go all digital and eliminate any low level RCA cables.
Optical out of the interface and optical into the VXi amps.
I finally bit the bullet and am overhauling the audio in my truck, mostly because I spend so much time in it so I might as well enjoy it more.
I have a 2018 F-250 Limited with the Sony system. I’m not doing this myself: went to a reputable local deal in NorCal.
For those of you that might be interested, I’m going to post the pictures they send me as they rip her apart and put her back together. Here is the basic build:
1. Sound deadening and vibration reduction - rip it all down to metal and apply
2. Audiofrog speakers (GB components in the front woofer/tweeter, and GS coaxial in the rear doors)
3. JL Audio VXi 8X100 ... 200 to each front woofer, 100 each to the front tweeters and rear coaxials)
4. JL Audio VXi 1000 for the sub. The subs will be 2X 10” Audiomobile Evo 10’s in a custom cabinet that takes up the entire space behind the rear seats. I wanted to preserve most of the space under the rear seats. The passenger rear under seat space will have the stacked amps.
5. PAC Audio unit with optical add-on to connect to the Ford head unit data bus
6. A switch to control the sub volume, amp gains, and to switch between driver-optimized (time aligned etc.) and “full passenger optimized” sound profiles.
Here are a few initial pictures of the sound insulation/vibration reducing layers being applied. WIll update as I get more pics.
Front door Rear door
Looks like you have a very nice system installed.
Those Auidofrog GB series are no joke and they really should make a GB coaxial but I’m sure the timbre is very close between the series.
Best advice I can give you is make sure they replace and seal the vapor barriers on the doors completely around with butyl sealer or you will have water leaks into the cab.
Thanks for the advice. Absolutely. They were aware, and told me that there were some adhesive gaps in the original factory vapor barrier seal that were corrected when they rebuilt the doors. This truck originally had a leak because the drainage tubes for the moonroof on the driver’s side hadn’t been connected at the factory. I was nervous about having the whole truck broken down, but I’m also half convinced they’re more likely to put it together with more care than was done at the factory. So far, so good.
There’s really no need to remove the stock head unit on many vehicles these days because they have all the features of an aftermarket unit and on many vehicles, the stock head unit can’t be removed.
With that being said, the Sony head unit is better than you think plus, the OP is using a PAC interface which connects between the head unit and amps.
That interface will all him to go all digital and eliminate any low level RCA cables.
Optical out of the interface and optical into the VXi amps.
GABAR,
I know you have a lot of experience with APIM replacements, so here is a question. My unit occasionally gives me the “No GPS” warning, and CarPlay won’t load. This ONLY happens when I connect my iPhone via a short USB cable (not Apple) to the USB port in the ashtray area BEFORE I start up the truck first thing in the AM. If I wait until Sync boots completely and THEN connect my iPhone, I get no issues, so this is now my defaul behavior. Other than that one corner case, the Sync 3 interface is fast and snappy, as is CarPlay, at all times. I’m on the latest Sync 3 build. I have an extended warranty so I could always get a new APIM if needed - but what are your thoughts?
I know you have a lot of experience with APIM replacements, so here is a question. My unit occasionally gives me the “No GPS” warning, and CarPlay won’t load. This ONLY happens when I connect my iPhone via a short USB cable (not Apple) to the USB port in the ashtray area BEFORE I start up the truck first thing in the AM. If I wait until Sync boots completely and THEN connect my iPhone, I get no issues, so this is now my defaul behavior. Other than that one corner case, the Sync 3 interface is fast and snappy, as is CarPlay, at all times. I’m on the latest Sync 3 build. I have an extended warranty so I could always get a new APIM if needed - but what are your thoughts?
You must and should use an original Apple cable or one that is ”truly" a certified Apple cable.
Yes, it might work but it’s not working properly.
With that being said, the no GPS signal was just one of the symptoms and problems I had before my APIM was replaced but strangely, Apple CarPlay worked flawlessly so I I didn’t have any need for the factory navigation. Also, I was using the Apple cable that came with my phone.
If you’re stock head unit sometimes display no GPS when your phone is not connected or if the touch screen is very laggy or slow to respond to touch, then I’d say you need to have the APIM replaced.
The only way the dealer would recommend a replacement is to actually see the problems you’re having so when or if you take your vehicle in, make sure it’s acting up so they can confirm. Even though you have an ESP, and I hope it’s a Ford ESP, they still won’t just replace the APIM if it’s acting normal when you take it in.
Try a real original Apple cable first and if the stock navigation still shows no GPS, take it in to your dealer.
Thanks I will use an Apple lightning cable and see. The No GPS never shows up without the iPhone connected.
Adam
Originally Posted by GABAR
You must and should use an original Apple cable or one that is ”truly" a certified Apple cable.
Yes, it might work but it’s not working properly.
With that being said, the no GPS signal was just one of the symptoms and problems I had before my APIM was replaced but strangely, Apple CarPlay worked flawlessly so I I didn’t have any need for the factory navigation. Also, I was using the Apple cable that came with my phone.
If you’re stock head unit sometimes display no GPS when your phone is not connected or if the touch screen is very laggy or slow to respond to touch, then I’d say you need to have the APIM replaced.
The only way the dealer would recommend a replacement is to actually see the problems you’re having so when or if you take your vehicle in, make sure it’s acting up so they can confirm. Even though you have an ESP, and I hope it’s a Ford ESP, they still won’t just replace the APIM if it’s acting normal when you take it in.
Try a real original Apple cable first and if the stock navigation still shows no GPS, take it in to your dealer.
