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2005 F150 FX4 5.4l 3v 122K miles, Owned since new.
Occasional minor chain rattle at start up and knocking at lower right of block / transmission. I can't stand noises. Other than that it runs great. Don't beat me up about "If it ain't broke don't fix it"
Decided to do a timing job because I could and I plan on doing long road trips now that I'm retired and I'm **** at maintenance.
I replaced the all of the timing components. Motorcraft Phasers, Solenoids, Lash Adjusters & Rockers, 5W-30 oil and filter. Melling 340HV Pump, Timing Chains, Crank Gear, Ratcheting Adjusters & Guides.
Unfortunately the Melling chains (SA) had shiny links at the timing marks which are very difficult to distinguish.
In retrospect I should have paint marked them! The wife even had a hard time verifying for me before I closed it up. So buyer beware!
Procedure:
Set the crank with alignment tool and verified proper cam lobe positions, locked the cams with vise grips to prevent counter clockwise movement.
Then disassembled chains and phasers, lifted cams, then replaced parts. Easy peezy, can only go back together the same way if nothing has turned, correct? These are the before pics. Sorry bad picture quality. The "R" is parallel with the cam towers The "L" looks to at 11 o'clock Crank Key tool Installed
The problem:
I didn't take any after pictures.
Now, I have a rough Idle and up to1100 RPM. I drove around the neighborhood for about 10 mins and it sputtered at all times. I can rev the engine in park and it sounds and feels fine!
I was running torque pro and I do show a P1000, no misfires show up thanks to F150torqued nice missfire pid and the vehicle test results (Mode $06) all come up as "test incomplete or dependent test failed"
The questions:
What the heck could I have possibly done wrong? I was very careful of the metal vacuum tube coming from the booster going to the back of the manifold since that seems to be a common issue.
If nothing moved, crank or cams then it can't be timing can it? I double and then doubled checked the timing marks before I buttoned her back up.
Just got your PM, sorry I have been lurking more lately rather than replying. Since it revs up fine in neutral and you don't have any cam timing related codes I would say you have a misfire. Since you pulled the coils to get the valve covers off things have been disturbed. Maybe some coolant got down in a plug hole? Your description definitely sounds like a misfire to me.
Thanks for the reply. I agree with the misfire however for some reason nothing is showing on torque pro. Anyhow I've narrowed it down to #2 by pulling cop connections. So I pulled the coil & plug, plug clean and dry. Switched coils with #1 and #2 still dead. Okay so it's not the coil so I pull the injector connector on #2 and no drop in rpm. So I am about to switch injectors around and see what happens....
As @70f100longbed I have done more lurking that posting, partly because I not quiet so OK as I used to be before 'retna detatchment' surgery on right eye. (but your choice of two experts to PM caught my attention!!! LOL -> as to ME anyway).
I'm torn between 70F100Longbed's opinion and my confidence in the Torque Pro Misfire Monitor. That Torque dashboard uses tricky 'Mode 06' calls and singles out the PCM's active misfire counters being accumulated for it's MODE 06 diagnostic report. I've verified that they match. Have to admit I have never checked that those counters are live during a P1000 condition. I know some tests are dependant on OTHERS completing. But lets talk about that. The "Misfire Monitor" routine, will not run until the "MISFIRE PROFILE" is learned. That's the purpose for including that flag on the "MISFIRE ANALYSIS DASHBOARD".
An early question "Is that flag TRUE?" That also has LOTS of trouble completing correctly if the Crankshaft Tone Ring is installed backwards ('with teeth pointing toward block'). Could that be the case here? That boo-boo also causes 'ignition' TDC on #1 to be shifted several degrees, throwing 'ignition' timing and the 'beginning' of firing order way off - and would certainly effect performance. Hope not - but just thoughts. I do not know of ways to check 'ignition timing' other than Torque Pro because the PCM inputs many factors and calculates it.
(But I am uncertain about the above causing rough idle). That sounds more like misfire (from silly wiring or injector connections). I ASSUME you have no CODES.
Have you downloaded and set up the VARIABLE CAM TIMING & PHASERS dashboard? Although I have never screwed one up to see what Torque's readings would be -- but I cannot believe that that screen wouldn't indicate SOMETHING funny if one side or the other was a tooth or two off.
I believe - it is most likely that 'something silly / stupi' is not connected good, or you need to get past a few initial drive cycles to clear out P1000. Use Torque Pro to check EVERYTHING you can think of. I will gladly give you reference readings even If I have to go out and crank mine up and set up conditions.
As @70f100longbed I have done more lurking that posting, partly because I not quiet so OK as I used to be before 'retna detatchment' surgery on right eye. (but your choice of two experts to PM caught my attention!!! LOL -> as to ME anyway).
I'm torn between 70F100Longbed's opinion and my confidence in the Torque Pro Misfire Monitor. That Torque dashboard uses tricky 'Mode 06' calls and singles out the PCM's active misfire counters being accumulated for it's MODE 06 diagnostic report. I've verified that they match. Have to admit I have never checked that those counters are live during a P1000 condition. I know some tests are dependant on OTHERS completing. But lets talk about that. The "Misfire Monitor" routine, will not run until the "MISFIRE PROFILE" is learned. That's the purpose for including that flag on the "MISFIRE ANALYSIS DASHBOARD".
An early question "Is that flag TRUE?" That also has LOTS of trouble completing correctly if the Crankshaft Tone Ring is installed backwards ('with teeth pointing toward block'). Could that be the case here? That boo-boo also causes 'ignition' TDC on #1 to be shifted several degrees, throwing 'ignition' timing and the 'beginning' of firing order way off - and would certainly effect performance. Hope not - but just thoughts. I do not know of ways to check 'ignition timing' other than Torque Pro because the PCM inputs many factors and calculates it.
(But I am uncertain about the above causing rough idle). That sounds more like misfire (from silly wiring or injector connections). I ASSUME you have no CODES.
Have you downloaded and set up the VARIABLE CAM TIMING & PHASERS dashboard? Although I have never screwed one up to see what Torque's readings would be -- but I cannot believe that that screen wouldn't indicate SOMETHING funny if one side or the other was a tooth or two off.
I believe - it is most likely that 'something silly / stupi' is not connected good, or you need to get past a few initial drive cycles to clear out P1000. Use Torque Pro to check EVERYTHING you can think of. I will gladly give you reference readings even If I have to go out and crank mine up and set up conditions.
OK, I was wrong on several points.
I stated at first I didn't have any misfires per the misfire dashboard, however the dashboard is NOT running. I
I also do have a couple of after pict's, however these were taken after I rotated the crank several times.
The first pict verifies the tone ring is correct. The other 2 I don't think will prove anything right or wrong. Tone ring fingers forward
Bank 1- After rotation
Bank 2 - After rotation
Yes I do have the VARIABLE CAM TIMING & PHASERS dashboard and here are a couple of screenshots.
The only codes I have are from me pulling COP & Injector connections and the P1000
I after 3 trips around the neighborhood still can't get any Mode $06 tests to run
I believe I narrowed it down to #2 injector. For some reason #2 is dead. I get no drop in RPM when either or both COP and Injector connections are removed.
I just noticed the MAF gauge is Not reading any CFM
Thanks, I'm hoping your correct! These are the codes I'm getting. I've swapped coils on #2 with no difference. Wonder why both the injector and the coil would stop working at the same time? I'm soooo frustrated at this point.
Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
=================================================
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0352: Ignition Coil "B" Primary/Secondary Circuit
So this morning I get up and Torque Pro won't connect!! I was shaking and checking all of my connections I removed during the timing job last night before I quit. I wonder if there is a short somewhere? What should I look for?
Probably prior to that screen shot I may have been revving it then I let it drop to idle took the first screenshot, then ran it back up to 1730 rpm for that second one.
It's not a timing issue. At least I don't believe I f'd it up.
It's an electrical issue on bank 1. The more I mess with the harness the more issues are popping up. Torque Pro no longer connects, so took it to Advance Auto Parts to have them scan it P202, P0351, P0352, P0354
A little back history: I"m going from memory, paperwork is with the truck in the shop (more on that later) We had a lot of electrical and injector issues starting back in 2006 with 30K on it. Ford replaced injectors one at a time prior to the recall when they replaced all of them. During the same period we were have electrical issues with coil #3 and a short somewhere in the harness. On 2 separate occasions when they tried to connect to the PCM they couldn't and fuse #102 was replaced twice. It was back in the shop at 50K and they wrote that they pulled the instrument cluster, center console and I believe the dash to find the short. They couldn't find it, BUT THEY DID NOT SAY THAT, because in my recent checking of connections I found where they cut the orange/white lead at the #3 coil and ran a single wire up to the PCM. They then replaced the PCM and coil #3.
That was roughly 70K miles ago and everything has been fine until I disturbed the harness and unleashed a lot of anger and frustration.
Interesting that last night I was unbolting the PCM mount and I heard something fall. I was reaching up in the frame pocket near the front right swaybar mount I found this. This noid lite has been hiding in my truck for 70K or more I guess they were doing some testing and left it like a time capsule
Anyway I currently have something going on in that bank 1 harness. Electrical testing for an open circuit in a harness is above my pay grade. So I gave up and took it to an electrical pro.
@ReddTruck your misfire dashboard IS working. MFMLRN (Misfire Monitor Profile Learned) is not true. The misfire monitor wont run until. Getting the profile llearned in KA memory is teadious. It requires several driving conditions to be met - one of which is three (3) fuel shutoff decelerations (without touching brakes) from 60 mph down to 40.
Your 352 is poor COP primary connection cyl 2. Also 202 is open cyl injector circuit. Easy-stuff, use Torque & make it go away.
Your Cam Phaser diagnostic screens look FINE. I agree your timing is fine. The two banks are WELL synchronized and running within less than one percent variation in control duty cycle between the two VCT solenoids to keep the cams where REQUESTED by the PCM. @70f100longbed the 20.9 degree reading (VCT2ERRT) is -generally- nothing to worry about. That reading is not an ACTUAL OBDII perimeter. It is one I made up and created for my own purpose that I found useful to me, and included it in the DASHBOARD. The backstory is useful (not suggesting you don't already know this). The two cams spin completely independent of each other within the phaser's physical / mechanical limitation. The OBDII CAMERR readings bobble into positive territory occasionally and into negative territory occasionally. I was WHOLLY unable to get a feel for which condition was more or less prevalent - I I felt I needed to know. ie: cam rotational drag, oil flow deficiency, occasional sticky VCT Solenoid on one bank or the other. SO I created the two gauges (VCT1ERRT and VCT2ERRT) and simply accumulated ALL positive and negative CAMERR readings into them respectively. Theorizing that they should (and in a perfect world they will) bobble above and below zero as the cams try to stay in sync with requested retard. On my truck --- working what I believe perfectly, in a 30 to 35 mile drive cycle, I may see accumulations as high as 125 - 150 then dwindle to negative same amounts. Generally - but not always - both sides more or less track. My opinion is if the error grows TOO MUCH, the direction would be indicative of certain types of potential causes. But 20 count isn't cause for concern in this 'homemade' gauge.
Gee I was running the wiring thru my head and a possible pinch in the valve cover . I was even looking at whether a connector on an injector could be hooked to a cop on the same cyl . I am way to busy with my wife's shop to do any investigating .
The orig problem of a failed pcm lead to cops is a twist . Why couldn't they fix it ? A noid light left in ??? This sounds like a pin problem on pcm making connection .
I am a firm believer in diagnosticians, you can either see it in your mind or not . You may be a good mechanic but not good at diagnostics .
Gee I was running the wiring thru my head and a possible pinch in the valve cover . I was even looking at whether a connector on an injector could be hooked to a cop on the same cyl . I am way to busy with my wife's shop to do any investigating .
The orig problem of a failed pcm lead to cops is a twist . Why couldn't they fix it ? A noid light left in ??? This sounds like a pin problem on pcm making connection .
I am a firm believer in diagnosticians, you can either see it in your mind or not . You may be a good mechanic but not good at diagnostics .
It's never a good idea to run wiring through your head, let alone pinch your valve cover while you're at your wife's shop. Just messin with you.
No possibility of pinching the loom in the valve cover or swapping leads for a injector with a coil if that's what you were thinking...
Why FORD opted not to spend a lot of time and trace down the original ground/open wire/wires problem is anybody's guess. Why didn't they throw in a new loom? I know why, because we had been back to the stealership no less than 10 times for these problems and it costs them money and takes up their precious time.Thank you
Your Cam Phaser diagnostic screens look FINE. I agree your timing is fine. The two banks are WELL synchronized and running within less than one percent variation in control duty cycle between the two VCT solenoids to keep the cams where REQUESTED by the PCM. @70f100longbed the 20.9 degree reading (VCT2ERRT) is -generally- nothing to worry about. That reading is not an ACTUAL OBDII perimeter. It is one I made up and created for my own purpose that I found useful to me, and included it in the DASHBOARD. The backstory is useful (not suggesting you don't already know this). The two cams spin completely independent of each other within the phaser's physical / mechanical limitation. The OBDII CAMERR readings bobble into positive territory occasionally and into negative territory occasionally. I was WHOLLY unable to get a feel for which condition was more or less prevalent - I I felt I needed to know. ie: cam rotational drag, oil flow deficiency, occasional sticky VCT Solenoid on one bank or the other. SO I created the two gauges (VCT1ERRT and VCT2ERRT) and simply accumulated ALL positive and negative CAMERR readings into them respectively. Theorizing that they should (and in a perfect world they will) bobble above and below zero as the cams try to stay in sync with requested retard. On my truck --- working what I believe perfectly, in a 30 to 35 mile drive cycle, I may see accumulations as high as 125 - 150 then dwindle to negative same amounts. Generally - but not always - both sides more or less track. My opinion is if the error grows TOO MUCH, the direction would be indicative of certain types of potential causes. But 20 count isn't cause for concern in this 'homemade' gauge.
You continue to amaze me with your expertise. I'm more of a "shadetree" and back in my "stealership" days (god how I hate that term) Ford's IDS software had a VCTERR PID for both banks and they should be at or close to 0 at all times unless you just revved the engine and the phasers are catching up to what the PCM is requesting. It the chain had jumped or the tone wheel moved a little then the ERR would be a value other than 0. As a side note, when one of these engines does the heavy diesel like knocking from the phasers the VCTERR PIDS jump back and forth between -40 and positive 40 degrees rapidly.
Just messin with you.
