So friday I picked up a 2000 lariat f150 4x4 with the 5.4 for only $450. I now know why it was so cheap.... I knew the intake leaked and already ordered a cheap replacement from amazon (couldnt find oem intake anywhere online) but once I checked the coolant reservoir I smelled the undeniable smell of exhaust fumes and noticed the reservoir has a greyish tint inside from the fumes.
So .... Looks like ill be doing the head gaskets Also looks like I checked everything but the reservoir when I bought the truck, I think seeing the coolant pooled under the intake and seeing it wasnt a funny color made me forget to check reservoir.
Oh well, only paying $450 and doing heads which might cost me another $500-$800 if i replace things like timing chains/tensioners , waterpump etc..... I will still be at around $1000 and hopefully have a reliable truck. It had almost no power when I drove it home and almost didnt make it. I think it could be a combo of failed headgasket, leaking intake which is also causing misfires.

Thats the gamble though.... I dont know how long it was driven in this condition and its got 250k on the clock But if it was well maintained .... I know these modular bottom ends can last to 500k ..... but I dont know that it was


It sat under a carport for a long time....It was so dirty I didnt know if it was black or dark green untill I got it home.

Im pretty much set on doing the head gaskets anyway to reduce the thought of me getting screwed if/when/hopefully its running good after doing heads. Im mechanically inclined and have done several head gasket jobs before. Im pretty versed in ford mod motors after owning several 4.6s, this will be 2nd 5.4 2v, and a 6.8 2v v10.

I will be doing a combustion leak test today to confirm its a headgasket. A buddy is telling me exhaust smell in the coolant doesnt mean its a headgasket which I think is BS.... how else is it going to get in there???? The intake is under vacuum, he thinks its getting in from there but I think its not possible unless it was pressurized from a bent valve which would probably blow a hole in the intake.

Anyway... I had a few questions for those that have done this job before. Ive done trigger wheel, timing chains/tensioners on these motors before but never pulled the heads. so....

• Is there anyway to remove front clip to make access easier or is it welded in and only fenders can come off?

• Ive been having issues finding oem parts lately at places like rockauto,amazon,other parts sites.... anyone have suggestion on which gasket kit I should use?

• Is there spark plug inserts I should buy and give to machine shop when I have my heads decked? Do I just tell them I want heads cleaned/ checked/ and decked and inserts installed?

• When I did timing chains on my 6.8 v10 I used the cam lock tools to lock camshafts from turning while installing new items. Should I leave the cam lock tools on the heads when I take them in or will I need to remove the cams before I take them in? I understand the timing proccess when heads are not removed as you place the crank keyway at around 11-12 o clock and if your cam reference marks arent at 11 and 12 you rotate the crank/cams one full turn until they are. If I just put heads back in and position cam reference marks to 11 and 12 how do I know they are on correct stroke? Hope that made sense

• Are head bolts re-useable or I need to order new ones?

• I plan to replace waterpump, timing chains/tensioners/guides while im in there. Possibly the oil pump. Intake manifold......Anything else I should replace or check while in there?

• Am I completely crazy?

 

Heres a shot of the coolant pooled under the intake, but check out the oil on pas cam cover. Not sure if this is indication of bad head gasket or cam cover gasket.



I let the truck run about 10 min then put the tester on, within a few minutes it turned to a very light greenish yellow. So would you take this as confirmation to pull the heads?

 

This days is usually head not gasket. If yo do not see crack in gasket when you remove head it is head. Last head I replaced, like 12 years go I did same. Replaced gasket even I didn't see crack in it. Than I had to repeat to change head. 12 years? Yeah, knock in wood. Last tranny 15 years go, knock again.

 

I have recently completed a head job (twice) on my 4.6l truck and I will try and answer the best that I can on your questions. The reason that I did mine twice is that the first job did not go well. I left the engine in the truck and either did not get everything clean enough before reassembly or messed up the gasket while trying to install. In any case, the second try I removed the engine and put it on a stand so I could rotate it and always have a flat level mating surface to work with while I prepped the surfaces and reassembled. If removing the engine is an option for you, I would suggest putting in a bit of extra work to remove it. Especially if you are messint with timing chains, water pumps, and overall cleaning and maintanance after 250k.

• Is there anyway to remove front clip to make access easier or is it welded in and only fenders can come off?

I am not sure as I have never take this route. I know part of it can be removed. But I am not sure how much of it can or if it is even worth the extra effort.

• Ive been having issues finding oem parts lately at places like rockauto,amazon,other parts sites.... anyone have suggestion on which gasket kit I should use?

Rock Auto has been my go to. However, for the price you paid for the truck and the jobs you are doing, OEM may not be worth the investment, especially since there are great non-OEM parts available.

• Is there spark plug inserts I should buy and give to machine shop when I have my heads decked? Do I just tell them I want heads cleaned/ checked/ and decked and inserts installed?

If price is an issue, go with what they provide. However, if you want specific inserts, go with your gut and buy what you feel comfortable with. Especially with those 5.4l heads

• When I did timing chains on my 6.8 v10 I used the cam lock tools to lock camshafts from turning while installing new items. Should I leave the cam lock tools on the heads when I take them in or will I need to remove the cams before I take them in? I understand the timing proccess when heads are not removed as you place the crank keyway at around 11-12 o clock and if your cam reference marks arent at 11 and 12 you rotate the crank/cams one full turn until they are. If I just put heads back in and position cam reference marks to 11 and 12 how do I know they are on correct stroke? Hope that made sense

I did not use the locking tool. It is highly advisable but not vital that you use one. My process was using a small paint line on the chain and gears to line things up for reassembly. The paint marks do not lie to you. The concern is making sure your crank is in the right position so as to not let your valves strike the pistons. It also means that on reassembly that you install the head whos chain is behind the other first, get that all lined up and tensioner in. Then do the other head whose chain is in front. Otherwise, as long as your markes line up and your open valves do not strike anything, you are golden. Having the engine removed makes this job too easy.

• Are head bolts re-useable or I need to order new ones?

On the modular engines, I believe that they are all torque to yield. Replace them. Even if they might happen to be reusable, after 250k you want new ones just to be safe.

• I plan to replace waterpump, timing chains/tensioners/guides while im in there. Possibly the oil pump. Intake manifold......Anything else I should replace or check while in there?

Oil pan gasket just because so much is already torn down at that point. Also a radiator/block/heater core flush. Just be wise about where your flush water comes out if the heads or block is open.

• Am I completely crazy?

Probably, but that is why we are all here.


One thing I did on my second try that helped out immensely is that I cut off the rivets on the new head gasket so that I can separate the layers. Most brands are 4 to 5 layers. Having removed the engine I could rotisserie it to make the mating surface of the block level. I then used the copper gasket spray on both side of each and every layer of the gasket. One at a time I would carefully spray both sides, line it up, and lay it on the block over the guides once it was mostly dry. After all 4 layers were in place (and I could visually see the pistons partially recessed), I places the head over the gasket and was able to easily get after every bolt and torque perfectly. It is a bit extra work and sounds weird to cut apart a perfectly good gasket. But several mechanics have said to do it that way and they reported fewer problems than doing it the standard way.

Good luck!

 

I replaced the intake. Waiting on new coils to come before i put all the vac lines back on and button things up. Still have to gut cats too. Going to try some snake oil sealer to get me by untill summer when ill do the heads. I just want to be able to drive it a while and see if trans and 4wd are working good or any other issues before digging in.
Anyway.... I noticed this vac line with n13 sticker on it with a T fitting on end and dont remember it being connected to anything. Anyone know offhand what its for/connects to?