1986 Headlight Switch
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1986 Headlight Switch
1986 F350
on the way to work this evening my headlight switch failed and wiped out the connector as well. NAPA has the switch and from the description it is an 8 pin connector. I found a cnew connector on “repairconnector.com” it states that it includes model year 1986, but it is a 9 pin connector. My question is will this work? They have an 8 pin, but it doesn’t look like all the blades are oriented in the same direction. Also, will I lose brake lights and turn signals with the switch disconnected? I’d really like to drive home in the morning. Thanks
on the way to work this evening my headlight switch failed and wiped out the connector as well. NAPA has the switch and from the description it is an 8 pin connector. I found a cnew connector on “repairconnector.com” it states that it includes model year 1986, but it is a 9 pin connector. My question is will this work? They have an 8 pin, but it doesn’t look like all the blades are oriented in the same direction. Also, will I lose brake lights and turn signals with the switch disconnected? I’d really like to drive home in the morning. Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Using the Motorcraft p/n I found a flock of these on eBay---maybe check there for a switch with the proper connections you're seeking? H/L Switch
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Is there a commercially available pigtail to replace my scorched one? And how easy would it be for an electrical virgin like myself to wire relays for marker and headlights in line under the dash to protect the new switch? I’m on the fence about taking this project on myself or taking it to a shop. I’ve never fiddled with wiring before
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Is there a commercially available pigtail to replace my scorched one? And how easy would it be for an electrical virgin like myself to wire relays for marker and headlights in line under the dash to protect the new switch? I’m on the fence about taking this project on myself or taking it to a shop. I’ve never fiddled with wiring before
I have what I think are abundance in both tooling and previous experience but even so I've made a few mistakes along the way. The only helpful part is I've BTDT so kinda know what to look for.
If the budget allows find a competent auto electric shop who can do this for you---you can supply the switch and mating plug but make sure they will install customer supplied parts.
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From: Virginia
The 9.99 one in this link matches the part number listed above.
https://www.repairconnector.com/cate...HT-CONNECTORS/
I think you can do it. We all had to start somewhere. Just use butt connectors to connect the new pigtail to the old wiring. Here is what a butt connector looks like.
https://www.repairconnector.com/cate...HT-CONNECTORS/
I think you can do it. We all had to start somewhere. Just use butt connectors to connect the new pigtail to the old wiring. Here is what a butt connector looks like.
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From: Virginia
AFTER you get the original setup going again, you can buy this relay kit for the headlights.
https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-for...dlight-harness
https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-for...dlight-harness
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i do not use crimp connectors, i solder the connections and use heat shrink tubing.
i would pull the bad switch and take that to the parts store to make sure you get the proper one. plus the pigtail for it.
once back home, cut, solder, and seal the wires one at a time. this way you know you put the new wire to the proper old one.
i cut the old wore at the plug and connect to the new plug wire.
i don't worry about having long leads either. it is better to have them too long than too short.
i would pull the bad switch and take that to the parts store to make sure you get the proper one. plus the pigtail for it.
once back home, cut, solder, and seal the wires one at a time. this way you know you put the new wire to the proper old one.
i cut the old wore at the plug and connect to the new plug wire.
i don't worry about having long leads either. it is better to have them too long than too short.
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i do not use crimp connectors, i solder the connections and use heat shrink tubing.
i would pull the bad switch and take that to the parts store to make sure you get the proper one. plus the pigtail for it.
once back home, cut, solder, and seal the wires one at a time. this way you know you put the new wire to the proper old one.
i cut the old wore at the plug and connect to the new plug wire.
i don't worry about having long leads either. it is better to have them too long than too short.
i would pull the bad switch and take that to the parts store to make sure you get the proper one. plus the pigtail for it.
once back home, cut, solder, and seal the wires one at a time. this way you know you put the new wire to the proper old one.
i cut the old wore at the plug and connect to the new plug wire.
i don't worry about having long leads either. it is better to have them too long than too short.
The 9.99 one in this link matches the part number listed above.
https://www.repairconnector.com/cate...HT-CONNECTORS/
I think you can do it. We all had to start somewhere. Just use butt connectors to connect the new pigtail to the old wiring. Here is what a butt connector looks like.
https://www.repairconnector.com/cate...HT-CONNECTORS/
I think you can do it. We all had to start somewhere. Just use butt connectors to connect the new pigtail to the old wiring. Here is what a butt connector looks like.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Not to beat this to death but indeed soldering wires is the best process however when DONE PROPERLY crimping is a very, very good alternative---not much of a learning curve either. However the tool Franklin shows is not my first choice as its too prone to operator error especially if new to this process. I've used a ratcheting crimping tool since the early 70's they're available now for much less than way back when. This is what I'm talking about:
That particular brand is available in a lot of outlets---I have a few of those for different crimping needs.
The best thing about that type of tool is the results are consistent, the hand pressure only types not so much.
Anyway good luck with your project---mistakes happen and I hope you avoid them all!
The best thing about that type of tool is the results are consistent, the hand pressure only types not so much.
Anyway good luck with your project---mistakes happen and I hope you avoid them all!
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One quick question while I’m waiting for parts, if I disassemble the instrument panel can I gain more access to the headlight switch harness? Just trying isolate the switch and associated wiring from below proved to be quite a challenge. I’d rather have the room and ability to sit or stand doing this work