Electric Tank Selector Valve ? I was expecting to find a completely different unit that contoled my fuel delivery system. Not just this switch. No return lines, no filter needing to replace. Happy, but confused. I have looked, researched and youtubed and not found this unit. I even looked in a Haynes manual and not found a photo of this. Does anyone have knowledge of this unit?

 

Yep just 3 lines on that year valve = 1 rear tank in, 1mid tank in, 1 out to the fuel pump.
I replaced mine about a month ago think I got it off Ebay and there were a few on there when I got mine.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...ve&_sacat=6000
You should be able to get it at the local parts store also but the price was good and came with the electric pig tail.

You will need to add an eye let to the power wire to use the newer valves and just check the ports on the new valve to make sure they go to the right tanks.
IIRC the ports from the tanks were switched.
Dave ----

 

That means your truck has a simple mechanical fuel pump on the engine, and like Fuzz said single lines to the tanks. I looked around a little bit, the auto stores used to sell that 3 port valve but I don't see it anymore.

 

I did the same and only seen the multi port for big dollars.
Dave ----

 

E3TZ-9189-D .. Fuel Tank Selector Valve & Solenoid Assy - 3 ports - Use with Mechanical Fuel Pump with dual fuel line system / Marked: E3TB-9F271-CA / Obsolete

1980/86 F100/350 & Econoline 300 I-6 // 1980/86 F150/250 & Econoline 255/302 // 1981/86 F150/350 & Econoline 351W // 1982/83 F100 3.8L V6 // 1983/86 F250/350 460.

NOS PARTS SOURCE in Olathe KS has 1 = 913-220-5746.

KARLSON MOTORS in Ketchikan AK has 1 = 907-225-9022.

 

Same here. I remember seeing the 3-port version on RockAuto about a year ago, but am not seeing it now.

The original valve on my '84 F250 looks the same as your '81. I wanted a spare, but couldn't find anything that mates directly to the factory connector. I picked up a Standard Motor Products FV1 that should work:



I'll have to modify the factory wiring slightly when I need to replace the valve one day. The factory plug only had power and ground wires. I'll have to cut off the plug and crimp on a pair of ring terminals. Shouldn't be a big deal.

One little gotcha to keep in mind. When energized, this valves draws from one tank and closes off the other line. When not energized, the valve is spring-loaded to the other position. On my '84, energized = front tank, deenergized = rear tank. I think the spring-loaded default is opposite on earlier models. You may have to crisscross the two tank lines at the valve, not sure.

 

Yours look anything like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-...oAAOSwbUtZmcWu

 

It's the same one I listed, but the part number was updated in 1983, so while it may not look the same, it's the only one for the OP's application.

 

Mine only had 1 wire for power the ground was thru the body when you bolted it to the frame.

My replacement also used a nut & bolt to fasten it to the frame. I cut the ears off the factory valve some I could use the factory bolts and not go digging for others.

Also the gotcha if you go switching the fuel lines so it pulls from the same tank with no power as the factory then the dash switch will be back words.
I don't care what tank it pulls from at rest but switch must show the right tank it pulls from.
Dave ----

 

Hmm, maybe I was less correct than usual about the number of wires. Maybe my truck only has one wire, now that I think about it. Forgive me for not crawling underneath to check. The important thing is the factory connector won't plug directly to the aftermarket replacement. I'd have to modify the wiring slightly.


I think we're both saying the same thing, just in different ways. How about this?: When replacing the valve, operate the control switch and determine which inlet port corresponds to the switch position, and connect the tank lines accordingly. In some cases, you may have to crisscross the lines.

Briefly touching again on the valve's energized vs. relaxed position: For anybody with the 3-port valve, I'd suggest learning which tank is the default feed in case of problems with the valve. I once had the fuse work loose from the fuse panel. (Never let the parking brake pedal slam up...) With no power to the tank selector valve, the engine feeds from the rear tank on my '84. I had the switch set to the front tank and thought I was getting great mileage! When I started getting suspicious, I switched tanks and the rear was almost empty. That's when I learned how the 3-port valve defaults to one tank when power is removed. Since then, I have always been careful to first draw down the front tank. If I were to draw down the other tank first and then the valve failed, the fuel feed would spring-load default to the nearly empty tank.

On my '84, the rear tank is the default. Looking at the EVTM, the front tank was the default for '81:

EVTM - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)


Not sure when the change happened, but it was somewhere in that range. Once again, this only applies to trucks with the 3-port valve. The 6-port valve is motor-driven, not spring-loaded, and in case of a failure, just stays put.

 

Thank you for your assistance, I found one at Oreilly's..

 

Thank you for your help, I do appreciate it. I did some reading and found that the main tank on my truck is the rear/back tank. When not switched to the reserve or front/side tank the selector is in the open position and uses the rear tank. Thanks again