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Yo locksmith. let me know where you get the mouldings and window trim. I need both on my 1988. Previous owner didn't keep up and my entire frame is rot.
Wow---that the windshield trim parts from the E-Series and F-Series are the same is news to me---even after all my years in glass this was unknown.
They're not the same, where did I say they were?
The basic part numbers are the same, but Ford used these same basic part numbers for 1950's/60's/70's/80's/90's and newer all FoMoCo vehicles.
But when the prefix and suffix are added to the basic numbers, this defines what they are for.
D5UZ-1103144-A Right Upper & D5UZ-1103145-A Left Upper .. Windshield Reveal Mouldings = 1975/91 E100/350.
D7UZ-1103148-A Right Lower & D7UZ-1103149-A Left Lower .. Windshield Reveal Mouldings = 1977/91 E100/350.
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Here's one example of a 1980/91 F100/880 & Bronco windshield reveal moulding: EOTZ-1003144-A
The basic part number of 03144 is the same, but the prefix is different, as is the 2nd digit of the body number.
Pulled the windshield trim yesterday, what a pain. The silicone didn't help. Most of it is ok but I did bend it pretty bad in one place. I'll clean it up and see. It was pretty nasty underneath with standing water and goo. The worst rust spot is near the vin plate. There's also rust along the roof rail above the drivers door. It's probably leaking into the frame there too. I'm in the middle of removing the dash but the instrument cluster is not helping. Can't pull it out very far so I'm trying to figure out how to unplug everything without removing the column. Once I get all that out of the way I'll have the glass removed so we can do rust repair and re-seal the windshield. Weather's nice and looks like we have a solid week without rain so now's a good time.
Well... the glass shop pretty much did it for me. They pulled the windshield, sanded down to bare metal, painted and re-installed the windshield. They also bought a box of clips for the trim. They rock. Here's a before and after of the trim cleaned and polished. I'll be going over there in the morning and they're going to help me re-install the trim.
Great, what was name of glass shop?' Did you replace the rubber gasket?
That year used a butyl "rope" adhesive, no gasket. While butyl is still available most shops clean the pinch weld, treat any surface rust and use the more common urethane adhesive in wide use for windshield installation and replacement.
The glass shop LocksmithFL used does indeed rock. Dirtbag companies like Safelite would not do such work. If they arrived and saw the rust before beginning they'd simply decline to do the job. If they discovered the rust while removing the existing windshield they'd stop, tell you to repair the rust and only then would return to finish the job---leaving your vehicle mostly disabled.
Haven't worked on it much the last couple weeks but last month, while doing the trim and stuff, I also deleted the air pump and corrected the base timing. It was at 5, I set it to 10. Drove it to work and back enough to go through both tanks and managed 12.4 mpg. Noticeable power increase too. From what I've read about the 460, that's pretty damn good right? Today, we installed a steering stabilizer. Ordered the OEM parts listed in this thread. My frame did not have holes for the chassis bracket so we just welded it on. Couldn't think of any reason not to. Positive results. I can now cruise at 65-75 and relax not having to constantly correct to stay in my lane. I'll probably need new king pins before it hits 100k mi but I'm not worried about it at the moment.
I also sprayed the wheels and wiper arms black. I want to do something with the grille but can't decide. I want to black it out too but some think it won't look right with the chrome trim. Was the grille originally gray or silver?
My ultimate goal for the van is to make it our camper/boat hauler. The boat and trailer probably weight 4000 lbs together. Is the curb weight of the van around 4000 or 6000 lbs? Getting mixed results searching. I'm currently using a 2001 F250 with the 5.4 to tow the boat but it's a regular cab and I'm tired of it. Problem is, the brakes on the van are not enough. I have to do something and Power Stop has no options. If anyone has any ideas I'd greatly appreciate it.
This is kinda unbelievable but I'm literally going through the exact same experience as you! I have a 1991 Ford Club Wagon XLT E-350 Super with just over 100,000 miles, 460 and dual tanks. I've added the same steering stabilizer (though I drilled holes through the frame since I dont know how to weld). I've replaced both gas tanks, both in tank pumps, the hi pressure pump on the frame rail and the switching valve on the frame rail. I've always had the steering correction issue at low and high speeds so I added a rear Hellwig stabilizer and even changed out the steering box. The steering box made the most difference in play in the steering wheel however I still find myself over correcting the thing a ton. I want to pursue removing the air pump and checking my timing - can you elaborate with some pics of how you did this? I'm getting about 11.5 mpg and the power is - meh. Here is my photo album:
Schweet! Ummm... The pump was easy, just remove it and all the crap attached to it. When I had the cat replaced, the new one didn't have ports for the air pump so it was just a noise maker at that point. For the serpentine belt, I'm partial to Continental Elite. The belt it calls for is part number 4060505 and the way the part numbers work is that stands for a 40 series belt with 6 ribs that's 050.5 inches long. When we eliminated the smog pump we needed a belt that was 47.5 inches around so all we had to do was order a 4060475. The two hurdles for adjusting the timing were finding the "in-line spout connector" and breaking the distributor loose from the rust. Both manuals I have said that the connector is supposed to be right at the distributor but it wasn't. It was below the brake booster, taped up with the rest of the wiring harness. I took a pic but it truly sucks, really hard to see the connector. Getting the distributor loose took about an hour of spraying PB Blaster then parts cleaner and repeating. I had needle nose vice grips on the distributor slowly working it back and forth till it broke loose. I experimented with more advance but got some knocking as soon as 12° BTDC so I just stuck with stock 10°.
Hi guys, both of you mention steering stabilizer. I notice my big 350 extended dances way more on i-95 than my regular length e-150 (both 1989). Does the steering stabilizer fix that? If not, what does. already algined, new tires etc. Not that much play in steering box...
Another contributing factor to the tail wagging is lack of a rear anti-sway bar. Find one in a scrap yard (tough to find) or buy a new Hellwig----that helps but generally the E-Series all have this issue, extended bodies especially. I own two of those BTW.
I will inject a few photos of my steering stabilizer I installed on my '78 E-250 nine-pass. Chateau wagon.
The stabilizer helps assist in taking up some of the jar on the steering from road obstacles.
'78 E-250 nine pass wagon with hydraulic steering stabilizer. This is a Bus (not a school bus) per the door jamb id sticker Rancho general purpose steering stabilizer to assist absorbing shock on the steering from obstacles encountered. net find - I'd be Nervous. How safe do you feel at this angle while Cow-Trailing !
10-29-2019, 08:20 PM
is news to me---even after all my years in glass this was unknown.
Dirtbag companies like Safelite would not do such work. If they arrived and saw the rust before beginning they'd simply decline to do the job. If they discovered the rust while removing the existing windshield they'd stop, tell you to repair the rust and only then would return to finish the job---leaving your vehicle mostly disabled.
