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My 2001 has started running rough and is very quickly getting worse... First issue is at idle it pulses every other second or so it drops 25 or so rpm then comes back up. i can feel it in the seats and steering wheel when it does it. Second issue is at about 1500-1800 rpm it just has no power and doesn't build boost at all. it also shakes a bit if i am cruising and in that 1500-1800rpm range. if i can get it past 1800 the truck lights up and takes off and builds boost quick. Ive got no check engine lights or anything so i am thinking maybe an idm? Ive replaced the Icp sensor already hoping that would help but nothing. Third issue is on a cold morning my truck does not go into cold start at all. It idles a little higher when its cold but doesn't drop or anything when i hit the brake. Could a bad iat sensor cause that or my power loss issue?
I will make sure to check that as soon as i get home. Oil was changed about 1000 ago with a new filter and the fuel filter I am not sure on that, Ive been debating changing it just to know its new but just haven't yet. As far as oil leaks i just fixed a real bad one i had on the HPOP rear plug. I fixed it about two weeks ago and it was running good then but then this started happening. I check my oil every fill up so i know Ive got enough in there
Ive got a new CPS on order just waiting for it to show up. I should have mentioned this in my original post but it has a PHP Hydra tuner on it. Ive been messing around with some tunes on it and some things are a little strange. First is the truck will not go into stock mode at all unless i turn the truck off in the tune then turn it back on then it is. Second is the hard downshift into second instead of going to neutral when i am off the gas just slowing down it does this. Third the truck is just a gutless turd but in stock it doesn't seem to give me any issue from my original post on here. So im thinking maybe my chip is bad and causing some issues?
Make sure the truck is running right then re-install the chip. It could be as easy a bad connection to the PCM board. Check to make sure you cleared all the coating off the pins but did not remove too much of the tin/copper on the pins. You want a tight connection.
Once you get the truck in a known good condition, re-install the chip, and see what happens.
You should be able to go into the stock (00) setting on the Hydra without having to shut the truck off.
Did the vendors know you had a built transmission and billet torque converter? The trans may not be an issue but the TC might if the vendor did not know that when sending you tunes. That might contribute to the shifting issue.
And thats what i thought with the stock tune. It will blink like it has gone into the tune and it says 00 but hit the gas once and you can easily tell it is definitely not.
With the transmission and TQ im not sure on that . I bought the truck with all this equipped but that could make sense.
Do you know who's tune(s) are on the Hydra? You can contact them with your Hydra serial number and they can tell you what they wrote them for. Also, some tuners label the files so it's easy to figure out what the tune is for. I don't know if you've messed with the Hydra but there's a lot of info here: https://www.hydrahelp.com/
If it were me I would definitely remove the chip (I always disconnect the batteries for that) and see how it runs without it. That would give you something to start with. If everything runs fine then it's the Hydra or connection. If not, then you've got other things to look into.
It has the base hydra tunes on it nothing special, which from what Ive read it should have some custom tuning for my transmission so that is most likely my shifting problem.
I took it off last night and drove it only this morning but it seemed to do OK, it didn't sound like it was skipping at all but it wasn't a very long drive barely enough to warm up.
Also with it disconnected it fixed my cold start issue of it immediately starting and idling at 1000 instead of waiting a few minutes then jumping up. It did its cold start sequence just fine this morning.
That is just it though my friend... The tuning does not have to be "special" in the eyes of the owner. Even the base tuning modifies how the truck idles, runs, shifts, etc... You have a virtual library of tunes available from PHP with the Hydra. You can remove and add tunes in seconds, which is another plus for the Hydra.
Go to the link Brian recommended, go to the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder which is a sticky thread at the top of this sub-forum. Do some reading and a bit of learning. Come back to us with your questions.
Just know that each truck us different and will react to even base tunes differently.
So yesterday i got the fuel filter replaced and i also installed my new CPS. The truck runs so much better now i think the CPS was in question before. I'm still getting some issues with cold start and downshifting but this is all from the tune on it because when it was off the truck it ran just fine and used its cold start sequence this morning and doesn't down shift like its trying to throw me through the windshield. I still get my pulsating idle from 655-700. It bounces between that at idle even with no tune. I am thinking an IPR cleaning may be in order and an ohm test on my solenoid.
Also had a question about my fuel heater, it is covered in rust in the bottom of the bowl so I am thinking about removing it because i don't really need it here?
So yesterday i got the fuel filter replaced and i also installed my new CPS. The truck runs so much better now i think the CPS was in question before. I'm still getting some issues with cold start and downshifting but this is all from the tune on it because when it was off the truck it ran just fine and used its cold start sequence this morning and doesn't down shift like its trying to throw me through the windshield. I still get my pulsating idle from 655-700. It bounces between that at idle even with no tune. I am thinking an IPR cleaning may be in order and an ohm test on my solenoid.
Also had a question about my fuel heater, it is covered in rust in the bottom of the bowl so I am thinking about removing it because i don't really need it here?
no, you really don't need it. Is the heating coil burned in half? I have had the connection unplugged in the back of the fuel bowl for many years. If the heater coil breaks and pops fuse #30, you will have a no start situation. I am not so sure that it is 'rust' in the bottom of your bowl but years of crud sediment that has built up. With the fuel filter out and the fuel bowl drained, you can unplug the wires and remove the bracket that it inside the bowl and clean the 'crud' out of the bowl. If it were my truck, I would then put the bracket and plug the connections back -inside- the bowl and just leave it unplugged on the outside back of the bowl.
No my fuses are still good and the element is intact I just don't like rust in my fuel system but your right it might just be some crud. Ill just clean it out and unplug it.