95 F350 ECM Problem
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95 F350 ECM Problem
Hello!
I have a 1995 F350 with the 300 inline. It hadn't run for two years when I bought it, and I troubleshot it down to the ECM. I bought a new one, put it in, and it started right up. However, I had to replace my battery terminals because they didn't make full contact and it killed my battery. When I plugged the new terminals onto the battery, I had power, but it looks like the ECM blew out again. Would anyone know what I need to fix to keep it from blowing out?
I have a 1995 F350 with the 300 inline. It hadn't run for two years when I bought it, and I troubleshot it down to the ECM. I bought a new one, put it in, and it started right up. However, I had to replace my battery terminals because they didn't make full contact and it killed my battery. When I plugged the new terminals onto the battery, I had power, but it looks like the ECM blew out again. Would anyone know what I need to fix to keep it from blowing out?
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From: Virginia
I would double check your charging voltage. If your alternator regulator system is bad, and you indeed had battery connection problems, the alternator can raise the voltage of the truck up to 50-100vdc depending on the rpm. The battery is the only thing that holds the voltage down to a reasonable level when the alternator goes wild and is overcharging. The voltage may get up to 18v and the battery will start boiling, but it keeps everything in check till it blows up. No battery and the voltage can be anything. That's why the old trick of pulling the battery cable with the engine running to test the alternator is so dangerous to any of the electronic gadgets in a newer vehicle.
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When I bought the truck, I'd wouldn't run. No spark to engine, and neither fuel pumps would engage. ECM controls that. Replaced it with a brand new ECM flashed to the truck's details, and it started right up untill I put a recharged battery in it.
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From: Virginia
I agree the ECM controls spark and fuel. I do not see where it controls cranking. Possibly you have another problem somewhere? Have you tried jumping power from the battery + to the small terminal on the starter relay and see if it will crank over? Have you tried to pull the codes?
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From: Virginia
If you want to test this, take the short little column cover off that is near the cluster. When you turn the key back and forth, you should see a small rod moving back and forth on top if the column. Get some small pliers, and take the keyswitch and turn it all the way to the start position and hold it. While holding the key to start, take your pliers and grab the rod that moves and shove it toward the cluster. If the engine cranks over, your piece in the column is broken. This is a very common problem on the older Fords.
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From: Virginia
Scrap the above about the piece that breaks, I looked in the link below and don't see it. It looks like they got rid of it in 1992.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/865w/0101.jpg
The only other culprit could be the neutral safety switch. If you have a automatic, this is located on the side of the trans. If you have a manual trans, this is located up high on the inside of the firewall where the clutch rod goes through.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/865w/0101.jpg
The only other culprit could be the neutral safety switch. If you have a automatic, this is located on the side of the trans. If you have a manual trans, this is located up high on the inside of the firewall where the clutch rod goes through.
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Hello! It was in fact the neutral safety switch. When I tried the first time, I did not know that I had not reconnected the fuel tank selector switch, which I found when I pulled off the cover to look for the little rod. Reconnected it, shifted into neutral, and she fired right up. Thank you all.
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