ZF5 shift issue
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 104
From: Ashland City, TN
actually, no. That is why we asked about the pedal assembly. If it was a used unit then I would have steered towards a worn pin and the need for the hiem joint. Since he bought a new pedal assembly, we were looking at other possibilities. I agree that the hiem joint is a good upgrade but probably not the source of his current issue.
He hasn’t reported back yet to see if reclocking the rod helped with his problem
He hasn’t reported back yet to see if reclocking the rod helped with his problem
And yes, a little bit of wear on this system, even just the missing of that plastic bushing can cause the issue he is describing.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,554
Likes: 2,034
From: North Texas
Videos do not work for me.
1/2 on the same shift fork and slider
3/4 on the same shift fork and slider
5/R on the same shift fork and slider
Either way, sounds like the clutch is not releasing fully. Check the fork throw, there is a specification for it in the factory manual.
1/2 on the same shift fork and slider
3/4 on the same shift fork and slider
5/R on the same shift fork and slider
Either way, sounds like the clutch is not releasing fully. Check the fork throw, there is a specification for it in the factory manual.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 127
Likes: 4
actually, no. That is why we asked about the pedal assembly. If it was a used unit then I would have steered towards a worn pin and the need for the hiem joint. Since he bought a new pedal assembly, we were looking at other possibilities. I agree that the hiem joint is a good upgrade but probably not the source of his current issue.
He hasn’t reported back yet to see if reclocking the rod helped with his problem
He hasn’t reported back yet to see if reclocking the rod helped with his problem
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 127
Likes: 4
Hey guys so I finally got around to re clocking it and this did not solve my problem. It seems like it only sits in one spot to the master rod can go on properly. Is there anything else to try besides synchros? It’s just weird that 1st and R used to work perfectly and then all the sudden out of nowhere now I have to go from 2nd to 1st or and to R so it won’t slam into 1st or R. When I installed the trans about 4 months ago everything was operating perfect with no grinding into 1st or R. Also weird that it if I push the clutch in and go straight to 4th it will grind really bad. I was told the trans was rebuilt before I picked up up, but who knows. Anyway is there anything else that could be going wrong? Maybe clutch engagement? As I said before i put a brand new south bend stock power clutch in it
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 127
Likes: 4
Also if I push the clutch in and wait like 5 seconds then very slowly shift it into 1st or R, it will shift smoothly/smoother.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 127
Likes: 4
So I just found out I clicked the arm the wrong way.. I clocked it towards the firewall now but I cannot push the master cylinder rod in so it can go on the arm. I’ve been here for hours trying to get it to compress a little bit, but it will not go
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 127
Likes: 4
I got it on and truck was still slamming into 1st and R, also now the truck won’t move when it’s in gear until The clutch pedal is almost all the way out, so I have a feeling I have the arm clocked to far towards the firewall. What is the proper way the pushrod goes onto the arm? I had the arm clocked so I had to push the master cylinder pushrod in a good amount to be able to connect it. Is the arm supposed to just be clocked so the pushrod lines up with it without having to push the rod in to get it on? Also when I connected the pushrod I had the clutch pedal depressed (not pushed in) am I supposed to have it pushed to the floor when I connect it?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 127
Likes: 4
Ya I must have clocked it to far because I was really struggling to get the push rod on
