When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If the pump was bad it will have issues in any direction. The pump does not know what direction you are turning. The control valve does via the tire rod control....that determines left or right by the push/pull out of the steering box. Very possible the control valve is bad. Start with the basics....proper fluid, level, system bled, etc. All this has a proper procedure due to the design as well. None of it is overly complicated, but it is definitely for more mechanically minded people as far as diagnosing and fixing. I recommend getting a manual, or watching several videos/reading on the subject.
If you plan on keeping the truck I would recommend updating it to modern steering. It will cost you more to R/R the old stuff than to convert to electric or modern hydraulic.
Possibly but I would think it would leak fluid. The two go hand in hand. Under pressure it would leak.....have you jacked the truck up and did the proper bleeding procedure? Using Type F fluid...red fluid...?: When you have the front in the air, check the knuckles/hubs for play.
Did you pump grease into the nipple? If so, you have to be very, very, very careful not to over fill or it doesn’t want to work. I had a new set up and the guy that changed the oil pumped it full and it never did want to turn to the left again. I don’t know why they even put a grease nipple on it if you have to worry that much. Put another one on it and was good to go. I switched to the 78/79 4x4 steering box and never looked back. Wife thinks it one of the best upgrades we did along with the Hydro boost disk brakes. For what that is worth.
I did not put any grease into that joint. It looks brand new as it still has the lares sticker on the bottom.
Does anyone know how much throw the ball joint going into the control valve is supposed to have?
I thought this entire time my steering wheel was loose due to the gearbox, but I got under there rotated the column and the gearbox starts turning with it.
The looseness comes from the throw in the control valve. I bought a new one and it seems the throw is much shorter than the one currently installed but dont know if thats due to mechnical leverage being forced in/out of the one installed rather than my hand pushing the new one in/out.
Okay, you do realize that the ball joint is the "toggle" switch don't you? If you think of a tractor and its control for a bucket....that is what the ball joint on the control valve is doing. You turn the wheel, the gear box forces the pitman arm, the ball joint moves, and that tells the valve where to send fluid. Turn the wheel the other way and opposite it goes. It has to have some movement....
Okay, you do realize that the ball joint is the "toggle" switch don't you? If you think of a tractor and its control for a bucket....that is what the ball joint on the control valve is doing. You turn the wheel, the gear box forces the pitman arm, the ball joint moves, and that tells the valve where to send fluid. Turn the wheel the other way and opposite it goes. It has to have some movement....
Hey, maybe I got the terminology incorrect on this. I do know it essentially directs flow from one side of the power cylinder (RH/LH).
MY question is what is the allowable throw that "toggle" is allowed to come in and out. My worry if the valve is allowed to come out too much or too little will mess with the flow.