It seems to me like the most important issue that our Broncos have is steering related.

Now I will be going through and replacing just about everything in the steering one of these days. My questions are concerning aftermarket replacement parts. Are there any replacements that will improve on the original Ford design?

Anything out there that is bullet proof?

From what I understand larger tires can really cause some trouble on ball joints and things. But being an idiot like I am, I'm not exactly sure what ball joints do.

I figure that I'll learn as I go, that's how I've done just about everything thus far. In the mean time, how about a tutorial.



Feeding my 9 mile a gallon habit.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Nov-02 AT 02:35 AM (EST)]interesting that you ask these questions since the answer to all is YES!

Superlift makes what they call the Superunner Steering system that significantly helps the "bump steer" associated with TTB trucks. It will only fit trucks that have been lifted at least 3 inches I believe. www.superlift.com

Performance Unlimited makes much stronger tie rods and tierod ends for this system in three grades. 1) bullet proof, 2)race proof, 3) rock proof. These are super strength and will flex under pounding and retain their shape. Definately worth a look see at www.performanceunlimited.com

Autofab not too long ago was carrying on about a ball joint they were making that allowed a full 90 degree pivot which would allow a HUGE range of motion before any effect on camber or steering bind would occur. www.autofab.com (Note: at last check these ball joints were extremely pricey. $300 per joint I think).

Ball joints allow the steering knuckles to move in a vertical line when the suspension compresses so the tire remains perpendicular to the road. Being a ball and socket joint they will rotate as the knuckles turn under steering maneuvers and they allow for suspension travel without causing the knuckles to bind when it does.

 

 

Thank you! How do I do a simple check for myself of the steering system?

Feeding my 9 mile a gallon habit.

 

You can jack up the front wheels and try moving all the joints. None of the joints should have any slack, if they do, it needs replacing.

You can then have someone turn the wheel while its still up on jack stands and check the movement of the joints. Look for joints that seem to stick. You can also disconnect some of the joints and check the movement that way as well. The joint should move smoothly and need just a little effort to move. If it is very difficult to move or flops around easily, it also probably needs replacing.

I am looking at upgrading the front of my Bronco, and I am wanting to go with the performance unlimited setup. If you check their webpage, you will see their joints are different than stock.

 

There are several things you can do to check for worn components. First and foremost check your tires for uneven tread wear. Worn steering components will cause alignment problems galore so this is a good place to start. Key tire indications are excessive "cupping" tread near outer or inner edge begins to feel like sharkstooth is the best way to describe it. A bad ball joint will most often result in inside edge of the tread wearing faster because of off-camber steering knuckles, which hold the hubs which hold the wheels (head bone connected to the neck bone) etc..

For tierod ends its a simple case of check for a lot of slop (movement) of the steering wheel before there is any movement from the wheels and for leaking grease boots. An extra pair of hands to turn the wheel while you watch the steering linkage is a good idea. Grease them while you are there if needed. Requires grease gun and SERT fittings in the rod ends which should be there already. (performance unlimited's replacement rod ends do not require lubrication!) Be wary of strange clunks from the front end during "hard-over" steering maneuvers. This is usually a sign of something worn. Most often, rod ends.

Ball joints can be checked for excessive wear by raising the front of the truck one wheel at a time and trying to rock the wheel up and down. Grab it by the top and bottom and push on the top pull on the bottom then vice-versa. If you get any kind of pivot or clunking from this maneuver you probably have at least one worn ball joint on that side. Repeat for the other side. Watch this carefully as the same result will be seen if you have bad wheel bearings. Make certain before you assume ball joints that when you moved the wheel the spindle and knuckle moved with it.

As to steering gear wear, check to see how much slop there is between the steering wheel and the pitman arm. If you can get more than an inch of so of movement from the wheel before the pitman arms starts to move, you may wat to look at the gear for wear. There is a way to adjust the gear but its an "ify" fix. The adjustment screw is in the top of the gearbox but all it does is jam one gear further down into the other usually creating more bind in the steering than correcting the slop. I would have some one more well versed in rebuilding look at that kind of problem. But thats me.

Hope all this helps. I know I can get long-winded but I try to be as thorough as I can.