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That plug fits the purple/green wire I think I should run to the compressor This plug fits the black wire which will also go to the compressor Passenger side firewall pass-thru
Yes, you can test it like that, assuming you are getting 12V at that connector when the vent selector is in AC (actually, most positions kick the compressor on).
You can also just wire the clutch to the battery if you just want to test compressor operation.
Compressor is brand new, just testing everything up to that point really to see if the wiring isn’t screwed up before it gets there...and to see if it operates as it should. I’m wondering, there’s 3 wires, 2 grounds and a positive. So 1 ground and 1 positive will go to the compressor and the second ground would be to an actual ground on the engine or chassis. Kinda makes sense right?
Good news I think, with 1 of the grounds hooked up, I got 8-10 volts in max ac, norm ac, and defrost. So that tells me if I wire it in correctly, those should send that voltage to the compressor and lock it up. Sound good so far?
Or maybe that other ground plugs into the resistor for the speed controller for the blower? The picture I posted earlier of the plugs on the outside of the box.
I’ll have to check out the grounds section in that manual tomorrow. I do know the top spade is disconnected and the female end of that 3 wire harness looks like it will fit on....
It shows the grounds right here in the diagram I posted. The bare minimum you should have one black wire running over to the blower resistor pack. That is spliced in with another black wire that goes to ground G106. Your black compressor harness wire could have one or two splices in it at splice S280, depending on what engine and the size of the truck. If you have a 351w in a small truck you could have a black wire going to the carb and the diode.
Ok lets see if we can get this right - I pulled this information from my 81 with factory AC and used a York compressor.
Wires coming thru the firewall = green / purple and a black wire.
Black goes to the top spade on the resister on the HVAC box.
The green/purp plugs into a harness that service the engine bay stuff listed below.
This harness has a green wire the green/purp plugs into.
This plug that has 2 wires = green/purp & green
The green/purp goes to the psi switch on the drier. Out of the switch the wire is black/yellow and goes to the compressor.
The green wire goes to the carb to the idle kick up when the AC is on.
Now I under stand your new compressor has a 2 wire plug so one would be the black/yellow and the other a ground and that could go to any bolt close by.
Hope thathelps
Dave ----
Cool when I was hunting them down a long time ago Ebay had them for about $100 each.
Next time I have off from work I have to make a point to hit a pick & pull for a compressor with the manifolds.
Wonder if the hoses might have been of use?
Dave ----
I don’t have the dryer psi switch on the new tank, therefore I’m thinking that by bypassing it, I would have the harness going into the engine bay go directly to the compressor. I’ll have the tee off ground plug in at the blower resistor, and just make up a pigtail that utilizes the other ground and the green/purple and try to find the factory plug on the other end to plug into the compressor.
i was thinking the voltage testing I did last night would prove that to work.
You must have the low pressure switch in the tank or that suction line over there. That is what controls the cooling in these systems. If you hot wire the compressor off the wire coming from the dash, it will run all the time, freeze the coil in the firewall to a huge block of ice, and liquid will finally make it's way to the compressor and lock it up and you will have a smoking belt under the hood.
Cool when I was hunting them down a long time ago Ebay had them for about $100 each.
Next time I have off from work I have to make a point to hit a pick & pull for a compressor with the manifolds.
Wonder if the hoses might have been of use?
Dave ----
Everything else was robbed. It’s nice to know there is a decent run of years, and models these fs6 compressors were on.
You must have the low pressure switch in the tank or that suction line over there. That is what controls the cooling in these systems. If you hot wire the compressor off the wire coming from the dash, it will run all the time, freeze the coil in the firewall to a huge block of ice, and liquid will finally make it's way to the compressor and lock it up and you will have a smoking belt under the hood.
Makes sense, point taken!
To beat this dead horse, that green/purple terminates into the plug on the pressure switch. The other wire on that pressure switch is yellow/black...that wire goes to the compressor?
if the above is true, and I don’t have provisions for a pressure switch, I guess I won’t be able to use the accumulator rockauto sent, unless what you said was true and the switch mounts on the shrader valve. I guess I’ll have to stop at the parts store and get one in hand.
that is where I’ve seen those pressure switches mounted, is that true? And is there just one single one on the side?
Yes, the pressure switch screws onto a valve on the tank usually. That way you can change the switch without draining the whole A/C system.
Again, the wiring is shown with the pressure switch wired in the diagram I posted above. It's called "clutch cycling pressure switch" in the diagram above.
Thanks for the help, hopefully I can find some of those plugs or wiring tomorrow.
looking closer at Dave’s picture, the plug going into the pressure switch is single in, dual out and the black and yellow wire is tee’d off a couple inches down.
Small victory today, got the new evaporator installed. Also found this gem in my mess of wiring, kinda looks like the pressure switch plug with very little remnant is a yellow and black wire. Hopefully I can piece it back together.
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