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It does not look like you can clock that starter at all.
The nose can only bolt to the bell housing 1 way and that is were the solenoid is IIRC.
Even with the wrapping the solenoid is still pretty close to the header.
I would say if you have to replace it and it is not covered under warranty get the McRobb starter.
You can clock the solenoid anywhere and if the cable / wires will let you you could put it between the oil pan and the trany cooler metal lines.
That is where a lot of guys put it to keep it away from the heat of the headers.
Good luck
Dave ----
Maybe you found the problem and caused it to happen now when cold?
or
The new starter is junk out of the box?
Should be some what easy to fix now that it does not crank LOL
BTW does the no start = no crank or it does crank but will not fire & run?
Dave ----
I would try the IGN switch first and if that does not do anything and before swapping out the NSS try moving the gear lever while you hold the key to start to see what that does.
Dave ----
So you replaced the starter and the symptoms changed at the same time?
Previously, had the old starter always worked reliably when cold? If so, that would indicate the ignition switch and NSS were okay.
Can you now consistently duplicate the fault in the comfort of your driveway? If so, I’d suggest checking that 12v is present at the small terminal on the solenoid with the key held in start. We still don’t know if you’ve got a problem with the control circuit (via ignition switch and NSS) or if the starter and/or solenoid is acting up.
So you replaced the starter and the symptoms changed at the same time?
Previously, had the old starter always worked reliably when cold? If so, that would indicate the ignition switch and NSS were okay.
Can you now consistently duplicate the fault in the comfort of your driveway? If so, I’d suggest checking that 12v is present at the small terminal on the solenoid with the key held in start. We still don’t know if you’ve got a problem with the control circuit (via ignition switch and NSS) or if the starter and/or solenoid is acting up.
I am lazy and why I said the IGN switch first but you are right need to see if it is getting power now when turned to start.
Being he had to move the control wire from fender, removed solenoid, down to the starter I wonder if the "splice" is bad and moving the wires to swap out the starter broke it?
Dave ----
Think I found the problem,the black wire on the neutral safety switch was hanging by a thread or broke just close enough to make contact. Repaired started fine multiple times sat.
See when it stays broke it is easy to find and fix.
Thanks for posting what it was.
Dave ----
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