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Old Sep 30, 2019 | 12:24 PM
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Thoughts on Rear diff play

I noticed a small amount of play as I’m In the middle of a ujoint replacement on the front of the driveshaft. What are your thoughts on this? The axle was “rebuilt” 55 k ago I noticed timken brand bearings when I did the hub seal a while back. There was not excessive metal on the magnet.
thanks


 
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Old Sep 30, 2019 | 10:08 PM
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Check the torque on the pinion nut. It looks like the shaft moves in and out slightly.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 07:18 AM
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That in/out movement of the pinion is no good.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 07:35 AM
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I am under the impression checking the bolt /tightening it could damage the crush sleeve and cause further damage to the bearings. It has had that movement in and out for some time now. What’s it going to take to fix that? (This is where I think I know the answer but hoping for a better one than mine lol)
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by RigCity
I am under the impression checking the bolt /tightening it could damage the crush sleeve and cause further damage to the bearings. It has had that movement in and out for some time now. What’s it going to take to fix that? (This is where I think I know the answer but hoping for a better one than mine lol)
For some reason the pinion preload is gone. Is it a bearing failure? Probably. The pinion nut just doesn't "come loose."

Deep in your heart, you know the answer.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 09:11 AM
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It’s had that play for over a year. Yes the truth is a MORON rebuilt it and it hasn’t been the same since. My blood is boiling of course his work led to me dropping another 1k to fix the truck already....My answer/ solution is put in the 2011 rear axle or some type of upgrade. Is the 2008 a good easier upgrade? I don’t know how to convert the tone ring on the 2011 or much about differentials besides everything is on the .00000000000001 and easy to mess up at this time lol of course just dropped 600 in buck zooka rounds for the truck and was investigating the next 1100 for the front end re lift may have to double down. I feel paying someone to fix the current axle could cost a lot or am I wrong?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 09:41 AM
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Someone said the nut doesn't just come loose, but I've experienced it and it would be worth checking instead of assuming that the bearings are toast.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by RigCity
It’s had that play for over a year. Yes the truth is a MORON rebuilt it and it hasn’t been the same since. My blood is boiling of course his work led to me dropping another 1k to fix the truck already....My answer/ solution is put in the 2011 rear axle or some type of upgrade. Is the 2008 a good easier upgrade? I don’t know how to convert the tone ring on the 2011 or much about differentials besides everything is on the .00000000000001 and easy to mess up at this time lol of course just dropped 600 in buck zooka rounds for the truck and was investigating the next 1100 for the front end re lift may have to double down. I feel paying someone to fix the current axle could cost a lot or am I wrong?
I put a 2008 Sterling on a 2004 frame. The 2008 had staggered shocks, where the 2004 didn't. Found a 30k mile 4.10 Limited slip for $500.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 10:22 AM
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I am not opposed to checking the bolt however more nervous “checking it” will create a bigger issue. If it is loose I’d say with that play it’s going to take a little more than 1/8 turn to fix. Should I check it with a torque wrench set to 150 ft lbs and should I be concerned about causing further damage to the bearings /Chrush sleeve by checking the bolt? 1400 mile trip starting Friday morning and the truck has done a good amount of miles in the current condition. That’s good to know the 08 axle fits well !
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 11:44 AM
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To get the pinion right, you have to disassemble the rear end, pulling the carrier, remove the pinion, replace the crush sleeve, torque the pinion nut to obtain the correct pinion bearing pre-load, install the carrier, check backlash and the pattern.

If you just go torquing it up the a "number"....who knows what's gonna happen. I can tell you that to get the pinion bearing pre-load set on my Dana60 front, I needed a 4' long 3/4" drive breaker bar....and the pre-load comes up quick once you get the play out.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 12:53 PM
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I thought 150 was the torque spec regardless I’m going to run the truck and start looking for newer model year axles. This one can most likely repaired but it’s a lost cause for me to keep this unit rolling. I’d prefer to pay someone to inspect a used axle before instal vs repairing this one.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RigCity
I thought 150 was the torque spec regardless I’m going to run the truck and start looking for newer model year axles. This one can most likely repaired but it’s a lost cause for me to keep this unit rolling. I’d prefer to pay someone to inspect a used axle before instal vs repairing this one.
Here's the spec for a D60 front.

For new pinion bearing installation, tighten the pinion nut to a rotating torque of 1.7-3.4 Nm (15-30 lb-in) (217-678)Nm [160-500 lb-ft]


So you can see that the nut torque has a range of 160-500ft/lbs.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 09:05 PM
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That’s a hard pass on messing with that! A local shop told me today they are familiar with the 2011 rear end procedure I asked if they could guarantee the Speedo and abs would work the guy said yes and they can also put the 2011 leaf springs on as well by moving the brackets around....another addition now I have to weigh that out as well I definitely want to keep my overload Springs. So I will have to ask about those as well. Happy to set a course for upgrades just need to set a course to having it done right.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 10:06 PM
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I would get a second opinion from an axle specialist on what you’ve already got going on we’re it me.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 11:18 PM
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You are correct in suggesting a second opinion and I will be doing so. If some work down need to be done I want the truck to come out better than it was before !
 
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