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Old Sep 29, 2019 | 01:29 PM
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retired ironworker's Avatar
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Wont crank.

1993 f!50. Battery is ok, starter is ok solenoid is ok. If i jump solenoid it cranks and starts if i pull the spout connector. if i don't pull the spout connector it doesn't start.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2019 | 08:03 PM
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If the SPOUT has such an effect on whether it starts, I would check the ignition timing.

The modern (post mid-70's) electronic ignition systems will retard the ignition timing when cranking, which is like pulling the SPOUT. But this is supposed to make the engine easier to crank, and should not have any effects on whether the engine starts or not, unless the timing is way off. In this case, it sounds like the static timing may be way too advanced. On the other hand, the retard is triggered by a signal going from the starter solenoid to the EEC, so if you bypassed that, the EEC may not get the signal, so may not apply the retard.

And if you have to "jump" (I assume bypass?) the solenoid, to crank the engine, either it or its connections are bad.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 07:16 AM
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Thanks. Ill look closely at the timing.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2019 | 09:31 AM
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I had same problem. PIP in distributor was bad, easier to just buy new dizzy.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2019 | 12:02 PM
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Been working on same problem. Found out that it had wrong starter solenoid relay on it, now it cranks fine. Tested everything I could, put a new dizzy in it, new icm, It has everything but spark. Any ideas?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2019 | 05:09 PM
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Remove the computer (PCM) then open it up to inspect for leaking capacitors. By removing the SPOUT plug you are removing computer control of the spark. The ICM will trigger on the raw PIP signal so that's why you get spark with the SPOUT removed. The computer may not be damaged enough to prevent it from using the PIP signal to trigger the injectors like it is designed to do.

While your symptoms are not the "classic" bad computer you have verified and replaced enough parts to make it very suspect as your root cause.
 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 05:05 PM
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So the brand new more expensive Napa fuel pump that I bought last week is dead it just makes clanky clicky broken medley noises does anybody know why that would be the case why it would work for a week and then die did I install it improperly? Should I move to an electric fuel pump there was a non-working electrical fuel pump on it when I bought it I went back to the mechanical thinking that just seemed like a good idea and that lasted for not very long and now another one's been eating in a matter of days
 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by PennyDreadful
So the brand new more expensive Napa fuel pump that I bought last week is dead it just makes clanky clicky broken medley noises does anybody know why that would be the case why it would work for a week and then die did I install it improperly? Should I move to an electric fuel pump there was a non-working electrical fuel pump on it when I bought it I went back to the mechanical thinking that just seemed like a good idea and that lasted for not very long and now another one's been eating in a matter of days
Can you give some details? What car, year, engine?

Then, can you explain more clearly, what fuel pump you installed? From what you wrote, I'm assuming you installed a new mechanical pump to replace an electrical one?
 
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Old May 26, 2024 | 06:21 AM
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From: By God Virginia
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
Can you give some details? What car, year, engine?

Then, can you explain more clearly, what fuel pump you installed? From what you wrote, I'm assuming you installed a new mechanical pump to replace an electrical one?
Crap... I posted in the wrong thread.
See https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21237239
 
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