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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 02:03 PM
  #16  
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Upps

Originally Posted by Franklin2
You have a 2003 and it has carburetors on it? Boy I am confused now.
Haha. Sorry if offended, I still think carb exist. But good news I advanced on descriptive memory 2 paragraphs and asked neghboor if he can dismantel it since I took in a new job. Delivery services. And hopefuly noting wrong with it and is just the fuse.😅
 
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Old Mar 28, 2020 | 08:47 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
I had the Dual Alternator on my 93 IDI F250 I just swapped the bracket from the dual to a single Alternator bracket and change the belt to a smaller length.

I just taped up the connectors for the lower alternator so that I can go back to dual IF I ever have the need.

my batteries were not split as in an Aux system so I didn't need to do anything for Battery Cabling.
i had a health problem and had to let things sit a while. I am back at it now. I got two new batteries, and had the top alternator rebuilt. I disconnected the bottom one and taped the wires. And took it out. Plus pulled a pulley off. But when I tried to put the shorter belt on, part of the mounting bracket is in the way. Can that whole bracket come off? It looks like other things are on it. I installed the new batteries and alternator at the top, and started it without the belt to see if it would work. But I either need to pull the bottom bracket or have the second alternator rebuilt and put it back in.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2020 | 09:07 PM
  #18  
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I removed the dual Bracket and used a different single bracket... I didn't try to leave the dual bracket on with just removing the lower alt for the same reasons that you just mention.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2020 | 09:18 PM
  #19  
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I understand the health issue thing too.... I have my share

Glad you are feeling better
 
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Old Apr 7, 2020 | 06:43 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
disconnect Both Battery Negative leads and now you can connect multimeter set to the High Amprage scale.. also select the Ports on the meter for AMP testing....
connect the Red Lead to either Battery Negative Post then connect the Black lead to Vehicle Ground (this can also be either of the disconnected Negative battery cables and your meter will show Current Draw.


Well I got new batteries last week. I had the top alternator rebuilt. And since I could not get the bracket off, I had the bottom alternator rebuilt. Last week it started with one alternator and no belt. Fired right up. I got the second alternator back today and put everything back together and the batteries are already low. I pulled both negative cables off and hooked up the meter, and no reading. Did I set it right? I switched it to mA. But also got nothing. The batteries are at 11.65. But it should have shown a draw??

 
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Old Apr 7, 2020 | 07:05 PM
  #21  
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the way your meter is set in the picture is correct for Amp measuring ...
for mA and uA settings you move the Red lead to the hole just to the right that says uA/mA..... it's micro amp and milliamp.

you should show some reading at least in the mA scale for the keep Alive circuits

See page 13 of your Manual.....
there are also 2 fuses in your meter to protect it if it was plugged into a higher Amp range than it is set for ... see page 25 of your Manual

IF you don't have the manual for your meter here is a Link to the Manual
https://manualmachine.com/craftsman/...7-user-manual/



 
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Old Apr 7, 2020 | 07:25 PM
  #22  
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You can also hook a testlight inline just like the meter. If it lights up bright, you have a drain. The normal drains on your truck will not light up a testlight that uses a regular bulb. Don't use a LED testlight for this test.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2020 | 07:58 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
the way your meter is set in the picture is correct for Amp measuring ...
for mA and uA settings you move the Red lead to the hole just to the right that says uA/mA..... it's micro amp and milliamp.

you should show some reading at least in the mA scale for the keep Alive circuits

See page 13 of your Manual.....
there are also 2 fuses in your meter to protect it if it was plugged into a higher Amp range than it is set for ... see page 25 of your Manual

IF you don't have the manual for your meter here is a Link to the Manual
https://manualmachine.com/craftsman/...7-user-manual/
So I took the meter apart and at least one fuse is bad. I can see that one since it is clear. The other is white. I will get two new ones in the morning.
and try it again..Thanks for your help.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2020 | 10:37 PM
  #24  
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you can probably test that Ceramic fuse with the Ohmmeter settings as that section of the meter should still be working....

but anyway never hurts to have extra fuses for that "Ahhh Crap Moment" when you realize you had meter in wrong settings and measured voltage... I've blown a few in my days too, and I've used meters all my life as I'm a retired Electronics Field Engineer ..

but Glad you found something ..... when you do the test again Start out with that meter set up to the High Amp setting first before dropping down to inspect a Milliamp reading.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2020 | 05:53 AM
  #25  
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Bob, does this truck have remote start? if it does, the remote start module may be bad.
if i disable the remote start in my 02 it will fire rite up after sitting for 6 months.
but hook up the remote start and the batteries will be dead after 4 days.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2020 | 07:51 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_

but anyway never hurts to have extra fuses for that "Ahhh Crap Moment" when you realize you had meter in wrong settings and measured voltage... I've blown a few in my days too, and I've used meters all my life as I'm a retired Electronics Field Engineer ..
Been there, done that. I forgot to move the meter lead from the amps port to the voltage port. Turned the meter to voltage, and put it right across a 480v 3 phase motor supply. It blew the fuse, but not before burning off 1/2 of the probe length at the same time. After that I made a rule never to use the amp feature on my meter at work, I always used another meter.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2020 | 11:19 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
Bob, does this truck have remote start? if it does, the remote start module may be bad.
if i disable the remote start in my 02 it will fire rite up after sitting for 6 months.
but hook up the remote start and the batteries will be dead after 4 days.
Hi Tom. Good to hear from you. Things are iffy here. I have some health problems I thought would do me in. I am vertical at least for now. But my wife works in an assisted living that has confirmed cases. So who knows what is to come. Since I am sitting with nothing much to do for work, I am trying to fix my beast.
No remote start though.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2020 | 11:23 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
you can probably test that Ceramic fuse with the Ohmmeter settings as that section of the meter should still be working....

but anyway never hurts to have extra fuses for that "Ahhh Crap Moment" when you realize you had meter in wrong settings and measured voltage... I've blown a few in my days too, and I've used meters all my life as I'm a retired Electronics Field Engineer ..

but Glad you found something ..... when you do the test again Start out with that meter set up to the High Amp setting first before dropping down to inspect a Milliamp reading.
So I had trouble finding the fuses for the meter. Nobody had the small one. And I just took a regular 20 amp and put it in the meter. With it set on DC, A, it said 0.484. I assume too high? Should I just have a helper start pulling fuses until it changes?

Edit. I just had my grandson watch the meter while I pulled the fuses and relays. The only thing changed was fuse 29 under the hood which is the radio. With that pulled it drops from 0.484 to 0.33. I pulled everything in the cab under the dash, and nothing changed.Opening the door makes it go over 2. What is it supposed to be?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2020 | 01:12 PM
  #29  
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same here on the health issues Bob.
get one taken care of and another pops up.
and i am dealing with the parents now. mom just turned 89, did will be 90 in a few months. he has congestive heart failure and had a minor stroke so he really can't do anything anymore, and mom is so weak she has trouble lifting a half gallon of milk or juice out of the fridge. but they refuse any live in assistance. so i am over there two three times a day helping out.
good thing they are only 5 miles away.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2020 | 01:13 PM
  #30  
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NOW we could be fooling ourselves here too as it do take a bit of time for all the modules to go to sleep ...

ya that is almost 1/2 Amp it's a pretty high draw IMHO

Maybe security system or door locks not letting the Body Module shut down ?

I'm not real familiar with your 2001.... ... I think you should be around 0.035 A or 35mA but I don't know the exact specs on your truck.

here is a Ford Video that may help a bit more....


 
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