Disc Brake Caliper Key
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,263
Likes: 5,822
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Have you ever been told, that if you replace one caliper you should replace the other?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 146
Likes: 11
From: Dillon, Montana
Just covering the bases on the basic 1st round of questions that have to be asked. Sometimes the simple question is the correct answer. But not always....hope the new caliper fixes the issue for you. Locating part # 2B292 might be a chore?
Have you ever been told, that if you replace one caliper you should replace the other?
Have you ever been told, that if you replace one caliper you should replace the other?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 146
Likes: 11
From: Dillon, Montana
What happens to the bolt when the caliper self-ejects? Does it stay in place and the key somehow gets around it? Or does the bolt break or come out?
In some cases you can still be good but be able to install the key and spring by hand. But it's never an "easy" push. It still should take some muscle and things should still be tight.
More often than not though, so probably the correct sequence, you have to tape the key in with a little persuasion.
On the flip side of that, if it takes more than hard taps with a hammer, something else is wrong.
Never seen that with the dual-piston calipers, but have seen people buy new parts kits for the single piston version and get the wrong size key and spring. I was trying to put them in and had never seen one that tight. Knew something was wrong so went looking for an old one (but known good one) and sure enough, they were different sizes.
Never heard of a different model, but either they existed or the parts suppliers were using the wrong interpretation of the specifications to make their parts.
Paul
In some cases you can still be good but be able to install the key and spring by hand. But it's never an "easy" push. It still should take some muscle and things should still be tight.
More often than not though, so probably the correct sequence, you have to tape the key in with a little persuasion.
On the flip side of that, if it takes more than hard taps with a hammer, something else is wrong.
Never seen that with the dual-piston calipers, but have seen people buy new parts kits for the single piston version and get the wrong size key and spring. I was trying to put them in and had never seen one that tight. Knew something was wrong so went looking for an old one (but known good one) and sure enough, they were different sizes.
Never heard of a different model, but either they existed or the parts suppliers were using the wrong interpretation of the specifications to make their parts.
Paul
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,263
Likes: 5,822
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Well if it is the correct bolt and key set up. Is the bolt under head part engaging the 1/2 moon cut in the key when all installed? If yes, but then the caliper is rotated up (by the normal braking rotation action) and that lets the key slot open up a bit and the bolt comes out of the 1/2 moon cut and that in turn lets the key fall out.
Sounds like a new caliper might be the ticket? Other wise a new caliper bracket?
Sounds like a new caliper might be the ticket? Other wise a new caliper bracket?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 146
Likes: 11
From: Dillon, Montana
Well if it is the correct bolt and key set up. Is the bolt under head part engaging the 1/2 moon cut in the key when all installed? If yes, but then the caliper is rotated up (by the normal braking rotation action) and that lets the key slot open up a bit and the bolt comes out of the 1/2 moon cut and that in turn lets the key fall out.
Sounds like a new caliper might be the ticket? Other wise a new caliper bracket?
Sounds like a new caliper might be the ticket? Other wise a new caliper bracket?
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,221
Likes: 323
From: SW PA
replacement calipers could have machined edges where they slide in teh caliper bracket essentially making them undersized.
Also another poster recently had teh same issue adn measured the caliper bracket opening between driver and passenger side and found significant wear in the caliper bracket....I suggested a weld overlay and re-machine if a good bracket cannot be found.
I had a similar problem as you describe on 2 different trucks....one had 180k miles and the other under 80k miles...I added an additional spring to each to take up some slop and never had an issue after that.
To be honest I think most times it's the bracket because it is lightweight material that I assume is softer than the caliper body.
Also another poster recently had teh same issue adn measured the caliper bracket opening between driver and passenger side and found significant wear in the caliper bracket....I suggested a weld overlay and re-machine if a good bracket cannot be found.
I had a similar problem as you describe on 2 different trucks....one had 180k miles and the other under 80k miles...I added an additional spring to each to take up some slop and never had an issue after that.
To be honest I think most times it's the bracket because it is lightweight material that I assume is softer than the caliper body.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 146
Likes: 11
From: Dillon, Montana
replacement calipers could have machined edges where they slide in teh caliper bracket essentially making them undersized.
Also another poster recently had teh same issue adn measured the caliper bracket opening between driver and passenger side and found significant wear in the caliper bracket....I suggested a weld overlay and re-machine if a good bracket cannot be found.
I had a similar problem as you describe on 2 different trucks....one had 180k miles and the other under 80k miles...I added an additional spring to each to take up some slop and never had an issue after that.
To be honest I think most times it's the bracket because it is lightweight material that I assume is softer than the caliper body.
Also another poster recently had teh same issue adn measured the caliper bracket opening between driver and passenger side and found significant wear in the caliper bracket....I suggested a weld overlay and re-machine if a good bracket cannot be found.
I had a similar problem as you describe on 2 different trucks....one had 180k miles and the other under 80k miles...I added an additional spring to each to take up some slop and never had an issue after that.
To be honest I think most times it's the bracket because it is lightweight material that I assume is softer than the caliper body.
if anything I can lay a bead or two and grind it down a bit. I’ll let you know how that goes
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,221
Likes: 323
From: SW PA
changing the bracket is not a terrible job.
Before you try to lay down a bead and grind smooth with grinder, first measure the caliper and bracket openings on each side and compare notes to see if you can find where the issue lies. (caliper or bracket)
undersized caliper is a much easier problem to solve for most.
Before you try to lay down a bead and grind smooth with grinder, first measure the caliper and bracket openings on each side and compare notes to see if you can find where the issue lies. (caliper or bracket)
undersized caliper is a much easier problem to solve for most.
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