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Like I said before this is the land of make do. The PO was a body man at the local Ford place for 25 years. He got this truck in 1982 and it was his daily driver until 2001. He said these cab mounts were on it when he got it.
These can be shop made out of 3/16 plate and installed with little more than an acetylene torch and a hand drill without taking the truck apart. I still have them so if you want to try it let me know and I will measure them an post the dimensions.
Yes please post the dimensions I’m gonna patch it like in the picture you posted I already have aluminum street signs for the floors I found a bunch of them on poles around where I live crazy how people just left them there just kidding my aunt works at a scrap yard and the city brought in like 6 pallets full of old signs
You guys are crazy to work on stuff like that. There's plenty of sheet metal in dry western states. It would be cheaper and easier to drive a pick up out west and get a cab. https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pt...972026665.html
The only problem is my front cab mounts are so bad the cab tilts forwards slightly is there any way to fix that
One of my previous 65's, I had boards laying on top of the frame under the floor boards. Those boards held the cab up off the steering column for quite a few years.
I was breaking the rubber connector from the column to the steering box.
You guys are crazy to work on stuff like that. There's plenty of sheet metal in dry western states. It would be cheaper and easier to drive a pick up out west and get a cab. https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pt...972026665.html
Have you read one word of this young mans thread. He is in high school in Kansas. He doesn't have the resources to make a 3000+ mile round trip to bring back a cab. It is probably going to stretch his budget just getting it to move under it's own power. Besides if all of us out here in the rusty end of the world didn't take the time to repair these old trucks there wouldn't be any left and the re-pop guys would go out of business.
Here are a couple of pictures and a little drawing of those homemade mounts that were on my truck. The pictures are kinda wonky because they got repurposed on to my roll around paint rack. They are 1/4 inch thick metal.
I do not know why they made the hole where it bolts to the mount rubber so large but it should be 7/8 inch. Also these are 9-1/2 inches tall but the factory mounts are 9 inches tall. My guess is that they just made it to fit on top of some old squashed mount rubbers.
Have you read one word of this young mans thread. He is in high school in Kansas. He doesn't have the resources to make a 3000+ mile round trip to bring back a cab. It is probably going to stretch his budget just getting it to move under it's own power. Besides if all of us out here in the rusty end of the world didn't take the time to repair these old trucks there wouldn't be any left and the re-pop guys would go out of business.
Here are a couple of pictures and a little drawing of those homemade mounts that were on my truck. The pictures are kinda wonky because they got repurposed on to my roll around paint rack. They are 1/4 inch thick metal.
I do not know why they made the hole where it bolts to the mount rubber so large but it should be 7/8 inch. Also these are 9-1/2 inches tall but the factory mounts are 9 inches tall. My guess is that they just made it to fit on top of some old squashed mount rubbers.
ok so the bottom of that redneck cab mount will bolt to the factory cab mount correct and how wide is it and what does the passenger side look like
Have you read one word of this young mans thread. He is in high school in Kansas. He doesn't have the resources to make a 3000+ mile round trip to bring back a cab. It is probably going to stretch his budget just getting it to move under it's own power. Besides if all of us out here in the rusty end of the world didn't take the time to repair these old trucks there wouldn't be any left and the re-pop guys would go out of business.
I second that. Besides , anyone can buy a running driving truck, but a few of us can actually build one from next to nothing. And you shouldn't discourage anyone from tackling a tough job. That's what builds character.
Eric building something from nothing for 66 years and enjoying it.
ok so the bottom of that redneck cab mount will bolt to the factory cab mount correct and how wide is it and what does the passenger side look like
I'd guess the passenger side is a mirror image of the driver's side.
Note, this mount relies on the pinch weld at the firewall/toe board to be intact. Is your pinch weld in good condition? I asked this a few days ago in post #14.
If the pinch weld rusted off, you are going to need to develop another method to mount your cab.
I'd guess the passenger side is a mirror image of the driver's side.
Note, this mount relies on the pinch weld at the firewall/toe board to be intact. Is your pinch weld in good condition? I asked this a few days ago in post #14.
If the pinch weld rusted off, you are going to need to develop another method to mount your cab.
Yes its still there and in nice solid shape with paint still on it
Yes its still there and in nice solid shape with paint still on it
In post #3 you offered that you have the replacement panels, with the pinch weld in place you could do as 78 short bed suggested and slip the floor plans and cab mounts under the existing and tek-screw or rivet together. While the fabricated brackets posted previously are nice and heavy, I don't know how you would make them without a welder.
Even if you have to buy all the pans and steel mounts, Rockauto lists them for a sub total of $78 and change, they want $12 to ship them to PA, still under $100 add a box of self tapping screws, a tube of seam sealer and a can of under coat you are looking at $150 tops.
Heck it's $65here to register a half ton pick up for a year, $90 if the gvw is over 5k.
In post #3 you offered that you have the replacement panels, with the pinch weld in place you could do as 78 short bed suggested and slip the floor plans and cab mounts under the existing and tek-screw or rivet together. While the fabricated brackets posted previously are nice and heavy, I don't know how you would make them without a welder.
Even if you have to buy all the pans and steel mounts, Rockauto lists them for a sub total of $78 and change, they want $12 to ship them to PA, still under $100 add a box of self tapping screws, a tube of seam sealer and a can of under coat you are looking at $150 tops.
Heck it's $65here to register a half ton pick up for a year, $90 if the gvw is over 5k.
well I am in high school and I have shop class for 3 hours a day so I have plenty of time and resources to make those cab mounts
I second that. Besides , anyone can buy a running driving truck, but a few of us can actually build one from next to nothing. And you shouldn't discourage anyone from tackling a tough job. That's what builds character.
Eric building something from nothing for 66 years and enjoying it.
I just think of it as what will it take for me to make this a driver. A truck that is rusted out and has been sitting a while is going to nickel and dime you to death. For me, a truck has to have at least something going for it; body, interior or motor. One of those has to be good. It’s not like these trucks are rare. They made millions of them and plenty of them are still on the road and/or available. Buy a truck that doesn’t need everything.
When a truck sits for that long, everything has to be gone through. Complete brake system isn’t cheap. Interior isn’t cheap. Engine overhaul isn’t cheap.
Rust never sleeps.
Everything deteriorates when it sits.
Sure, just about everything is repairable. I can metal fab as good as anyone else but I’m not happy about wasting money.
There are plenty of 65 and 66 trucks around for $1800-$2500 that don’t need everything.
I’m pragmatic and am just trying to save the kid from dumping thousands of dollars into a pit. Save up your money and buy something that isn’t that far gone.
My high school projects were a '51 pickup, a '57 2-door, and a '61 4wd pickup (all Fords, of course) - and all of them had cab rust like yours. I still remember the lessons learned, the techniques that did and didn't work, how to scrounge, how to swap and trade, learned a lot of colorful language, how to stop bleeding caused by using big hammers, and even got to drive them every now and then. Go for it; the school shop is a fantastic resource and between Google and FTE, every reasonable solution is quick to find. Whether you want to build a show truck or a farm truck, just have fun, be safe, keep us posted, and take pictures!
