No start epidemic continues
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
Yep, that's the one I have. You just have to remember these lower-cost ones are not temperature compensated like the ones at Advance/AutoZone/etc. Or we can pay the $500 to $1500 like the ones in those stores.
The issue with the Harbor Freight carbon pile tester is the amp and voltmeters are not accurate. As long as you have your own so you can verify or calibrate the HF, it should be good. Sometimes on CL you can find some the old carbon pile units for the price of the HF.
The issue with the Harbor Freight carbon pile tester is the amp and voltmeters are not accurate. As long as you have your own so you can verify or calibrate the HF, it should be good. Sometimes on CL you can find some the old carbon pile units for the price of the HF.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
I think the carbon pile is better, it hard loads the battery. And it's something I teethed on.
The conductance tester is sooooo much easier. I have a dozen batteries to check and maintain, most in farm equipment. My oldest battery I'd have to look for, it's an 8-D in my dozer. But many are well-aged.
The thing with Amazon, you can try it and return real easy.
The conductance tester is sooooo much easier. I have a dozen batteries to check and maintain, most in farm equipment. My oldest battery I'd have to look for, it's an 8-D in my dozer. But many are well-aged.
The thing with Amazon, you can try it and return real easy.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Central BC
Disconnect one batteries terminals, test that battery. Reconnect terminals, repeat on other battery.
550 and 1224 would mean one hurt battery.
35 to 61 would be a very, very low cranking rpm, you need 150 for the PCM to engage the injectors. I'm guessing the rpm is the wrong parameter. If you can, video trying to start it.
550 and 1224 would mean one hurt battery.
35 to 61 would be a very, very low cranking rpm, you need 150 for the PCM to engage the injectors. I'm guessing the rpm is the wrong parameter. If you can, video trying to start it.
Okay, so I did run the test on both batteries, but I hadn't disconnected them. And the results were the same for each; first the tester said 550, then when I hit "enter" again it said 1224, and the green light "Battery ok" came on. Repeat on second side with identical results. I do have the updated wiring kit from ficmrepair.com, installed when I replaced the alternator.
I'll try again in the daylight with disconnected terminals.
And the description for the RPM parameter reads "Revolutions Per Minute of the engine crankshaft."
I will get a video in the morning (Pacific time!), but we were both pretty surprised that it was reading so slow, because it sounds pretty normal.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Central BC
Just for good measure, check the IPR data. IMHO, batteries don't quit one day and then charge themselves back up a few days later. I'm thinking you just ran them down trying to start it. But yeah, once they run down, it may sound like it's cranking OK, but if you're not getting at least 150 RPM, the computer won't let it start. Not like a gasser that can sometimes kick just barely turning over.
On the other hand, you can lose high oil pressure from any number of locations, and that would make it not start warm but start later when cold (cold oil is thicker and sometimes doesn't leak through a bad o-ring until it warms up). Owners with a bad o-ring are almost a daily post here.
You could also have a ground on your wiring harness that will cause intermittent no-starts. I had a truck that would do that. I'd get under the hood and slightly tug on the harness in a few places, get back in and it would start. Never tried to figure out which tug did it. There are posts somewhere here that talk about likely locations.
And, yes, the A/C clutch can be freezing up and dragging down your starter, making it hard to turn over, then running down your battery when you try.
On the other hand, you can lose high oil pressure from any number of locations, and that would make it not start warm but start later when cold (cold oil is thicker and sometimes doesn't leak through a bad o-ring until it warms up). Owners with a bad o-ring are almost a daily post here.
You could also have a ground on your wiring harness that will cause intermittent no-starts. I had a truck that would do that. I'd get under the hood and slightly tug on the harness in a few places, get back in and it would start. Never tried to figure out which tug did it. There are posts somewhere here that talk about likely locations.
And, yes, the A/C clutch can be freezing up and dragging down your starter, making it hard to turn over, then running down your battery when you try.
KOEO - 14.844% and 115.789 psi.
Cranking - % ranged from 44.1- 47ish and psi was 1050 - 1260
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Central BC
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Central BC
Batteries are freshly charged in this one, no improvement in reported RPM numbers. I haven't proceeded further yet with load testing or checking the A/C. Pouring rain here today! I've gotten into the habit of waiting for the weather to change whenever possible.
I've included an html of the DashBoss log, can you guys open it? If so, what do you make of the IPR numbers? I was looking at a spreadsheet version and they didn't show up so clearly, I think there was only one reading that showed a low number while cranking.
I've included an html of the DashBoss log, can you guys open it? If so, what do you make of the IPR numbers? I was looking at a spreadsheet version and they didn't show up so clearly, I think there was only one reading that showed a low number while cranking.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
Your cranking speed sounds normal. But it sounded like the batteries were getting depleted by the end.
If I can trouble you more, video taking the battery readings if you still going to do it. I’m not familiar with that model and the twin readings are something I’d like to understand.
With my Solar I can select both the type of battery and the CCA of the battery being tested. Both of those input parameters effect the output value.
If I can trouble you more, video taking the battery readings if you still going to do it. I’m not familiar with that model and the twin readings are something I’d like to understand.
With my Solar I can select both the type of battery and the CCA of the battery being tested. Both of those input parameters effect the output value.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Central BC
No sync was the first thing I noticed and started reading up on, and low rpm stood out as a prime suspect.
I found a video on where to locate the crank sensor. Sounds like fun!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Central BC
Your cranking speed sounds normal. But it sounded like the batteries were getting depleted by the end.
If I can trouble you more, video taking the battery readings if you still going to do it. I’m not familiar with that model and the twin readings are something I’d like to understand.
With my Solar I can select both the type of battery and the CCA of the battery being tested. Both of those input parameters effect the output value.
If I can trouble you more, video taking the battery readings if you still going to do it. I’m not familiar with that model and the twin readings are something I’d like to understand.
With my Solar I can select both the type of battery and the CCA of the battery being tested. Both of those input parameters effect the output value.