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I have a 2004 5.4 expy
Which plugs do I have the ones that break or the ones that strip?
Is there a way to tell by the vin#
I had a misfire on #7 (don't laugh)
I wasn't thinking ford....so i thought 1 3 5 7 great last plug passenger side......then I noticed the heater control valve was leaking and the back 2 coils were wet. So I changed the control valve and blew off the coils no change. Then some where in my pea brain I remembered something about ford being different. Then I googled it and #7 is the 3d plug on the drivers side. I removed the coil and couldn't budge the plug so I changed the coil. No more skip.
Now I need some advice on the removle of the plugs. And witch plugs I have?
You have the plugs that shouldn't do either. You have the updated 2v heads so blown plugs shouldn't be an issue and only the 3v engines blow plugs up until 08.
You have the plugs that shouldn't do either. You have the updated 2v heads so blown plugs shouldn't be an issue and only the 3v engines blow plugs up until 08.
So the fact that I can't budge the plug isn't a problem? What are the chances that thease plugs are original at 230k? I have watched a bunch of videos and every one is different. Most are on the 3 valve. What do you susjest. Or just leave them she is firing on all 8 ...
If you are going to replace the plugs, remove the coil and blast the plug well with compressed air to remove any harmful particles. Then spray some PB Blaster down in the plug well and let it soak for a while, overnight if needed. Your other plugs may need the same treatment.
So the fact that I can't budge the plug isn't a problem? What are the chances that thease plugs are original at 230k? I have watched a bunch of videos and every one is different. Most are on the 3 valve. What do you susjest. Or just leave them she is firing on all 8 ...
Stuck plugs I suggest some oil and a impact. The impact method has proven to be highly successful on the modular engines and lowers the chances of thread failure.
I use a small Milwaukee m12 impact for plug changes, others use pneumatic butterfly impacts. The 1/2" is rather hard to fit in the engine bay. The impact method provides short bursts of rotational torque that will break the plug loose. If you do it manually you are applying torque until you hit the break over point and that's where the weakest link has to give and often it's the threads.