Adjustable clutch?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Silver Lake U.S.
Adjustable clutch?
The ole bronco II seems to be having clutch problems. ANd the clutch doesn't want to disengage. I can drive down the road at any speed and gas it and the revs shoot up as if I had the clutch pushed in? Any easy fix to this or am i done for? Thanks. 2.9/5-speed just in case.
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1
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From: N. Indiana
BroncoII clutch
I started replacing the clutch in my 89 b2 this weekend. (didn't finish though, because I am pretty sick).
From what I have heard, it is pretty common to blow through B2 clutches. Probably because it is only a 8 7/8 " clutch as opposed to the 10" used in the 4.0L rangers. (at least in theory that makes sense).
The benefits of a not-so-stiff clutch is that it is easier on the drive train and smoother takeoffs. The down side is that it wears out quicker.
As I have a brother that rides the clutches of all vehicles he drives, I am pretty familiar with the tell-tale signs of a fading clutch (takes less and less travel to engage the clutch).
As long as you aren't letting it completely slip, you _could_ get by without resurfacing the flywheel.
Be glad that clutches are cheap. I got a complete kit (throwout bearing, clutch disc, pressure plate and tool) for $108 from autozone.
For the experienced mechanic, it is about 8 hours of work. 4wd work is not for the faint of heart, but can save you $900 by doing it yourself.
Another option is to replace the clutch with a 10" once from the 4.0L. Also will need to swap flywheels and bell housing. But it should bolt right up.
Good luck with that.
From what I have heard, it is pretty common to blow through B2 clutches. Probably because it is only a 8 7/8 " clutch as opposed to the 10" used in the 4.0L rangers. (at least in theory that makes sense).
The benefits of a not-so-stiff clutch is that it is easier on the drive train and smoother takeoffs. The down side is that it wears out quicker.
As I have a brother that rides the clutches of all vehicles he drives, I am pretty familiar with the tell-tale signs of a fading clutch (takes less and less travel to engage the clutch).
As long as you aren't letting it completely slip, you _could_ get by without resurfacing the flywheel.
Be glad that clutches are cheap. I got a complete kit (throwout bearing, clutch disc, pressure plate and tool) for $108 from autozone.
For the experienced mechanic, it is about 8 hours of work. 4wd work is not for the faint of heart, but can save you $900 by doing it yourself.
Another option is to replace the clutch with a 10" once from the 4.0L. Also will need to swap flywheels and bell housing. But it should bolt right up.
Good luck with that.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 312
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From: Silver Lake U.S.
Thanks for the reply. ITs definitely on its way out. I took it to the shop and we're just gonna have them do it for 400 bucks including a new flywheel because its about show anyways. I could change it myself, but the hassle just doesn't seem worth the money. Thanks again.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 57
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From: Virginia
WATCH OUT about that FLYWHEEL. it may just be the COMMON B2 problem. yeah seems like youve lost your cutch. if they replace your flywheel you may see the teeths gone again might want to look at your STARTER teeths if your fly wheel is gone then mostly your starter teeth is gone as welll GOOD LUCK friend
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 42
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From: Ontario, Canada
Hold on a sec, there might be another problem. Friend of mine had the same symptoms and it wasn’t the clutch or the flywheel. What happened was that the pilot pushing supporting the transition input shaft simply fell apart and the input shaft was “hanging” loose, supported only by a main bearing from the input shaft located in the transition. After awhile that bearing got worn out and the input shaft got “wabley”. Since the clutch plate only travels a small distance, it started to get caught and not fully released. In other words the clutch plate was no longer parallel to the flywheel because it had not support.
Tom
Tom
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 57
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From: Virginia
Which ever way, you will still need to pull the tranny and motor apart. like i said if you do this it might be better to remove the radiator, and your fan and slide the motor out versus removing the tranny. if you do that you will have more then enough room to inspect and repair any damages needed to be done. Good luck my Bronco II brother.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1
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From: Dover,NH
Just got an '88 BronchoII 4X4,2.9V6last month. I put Ranchero5000 shocks on it and an extra leaf on each rear wheel. Put Crager15X8 wheels on it with 15X235/70's off road tires. Just completed the bodywork and a new paint job. Plus a CD player for tunes. It rides great and now has a couple of inches of lift. Now the clutch seems to be dying, slips under hard acceleration, for an estimate of 480. to replace. Am wondering if it would be better to invest in a 302smallblock and an 11 inch clutch,should I use a different transmision as well? Anyone have experience with such a changeout?
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