Ignition switch or starter switch, could be either one. I'm guessing the starter switch is like many others with a big red wire or two that should go hot with the test light when the key is turned ahead.

 

I'm glad I have the remote start or this wouldn't be starting. I should make a signature with all mods...

Coolant filter
Blue spring
Leece 230 amp alternator
Ficmrepair.com upgraded battery cables
Flex-a-lite electric fans
BDS 5" lift
35x12.5x20 AMP M/T
Raceline 20x12 wheels
Autopage remote start/alarm

I believe that's it.

 

Thanks for your input, I will locate and pull the starter switch (is it a relay?) and test it. With it starting on remote I would think that the starter switch/relay is good??

I am no mechanic but can swap parts with the best of them... lol

 

I did charge the batteries per Ed aka FICMRepair instructions. I can see how some can be overly excited to hurry up and get the job done and I appreciate you throwing that out there. If I hadn't read the instructions and the bold/highlighted section I would have missed this crucial portion. It pays to read instructions more than once before proceeding for sure.

 

Spoke with Ed today over at FICMRepair.com and he believes my PATS (the factory anti-theft system) has somehow been compromised and that is the reason I am finding failure in the key starting the vehicle and Remote Start working. I will put it on a scanner soon and when I figure out the diagnosis I will keep all in touch. I know how frustrating it is to find a similar issue but no resolve... I got you.

 

Why would it crank so extremely slowly if it were a PATS issue? Still sounds like something else to me. You have had numerous suggestions that I haven't seen a response to.

load test on the batteries
turn engine over by hand
swap relays around
test light to the ignition switch
make sure belt is not slipping (or even try cranking w/ belt removed)

You said you can get it started w/ the remote start. A video of that might help. We don't even know if charging the batteries helped any or if the alternator works (cranking voltages, idling voltages, etc).

This seems to be way harder than it should be ....

 

I'll record it starting with the remote start and share a link here. Didn't think about doing that, great idea!

 

 

Hit the start button on your fob. Then get in and try with your key. That will tell a lot about what's up.
Mine when I had it in, had a green start button. Hit once it turns ignition on. Hit the second time after waiting on glow plugs it would initiate the starter.

 

Forgot the best part if it works wiring on autostart is the problem.

 

Mine doesn't work that way. Push the start button and it goes thru a cycle with a delay for the glow plugs then starts. No pushing the button a second time.

 

Thanks for the video. That crank is pretty strong. Sure looks like your issue is somewhere in the wiring, but that weak crank was probably a separate issue that needed to be corrected (edit - by this I mean the original batteries may have been an issue).

 

I'm not sure what you mean by weak crank. It was an attempted crank and a quit with fully charged batteries. The crank/start is with the same voltage/batt % with attempted crank/no start. It would not crank with the key, only with the remote start. If I need to I can record a video of the two within one minute of each other? Not being a dick rather examining the evidence I've provided and maybe the two in one video will help clarify for future reference?

It wasn't cranking slowly, it attempted to crank on initial turn of the key then quit. Never did it actually crank.

The engine cranks every time with remote start and runs after first crank. Why would I continue to try and figure other issues at this point if I haven't had the PAST system checked out? If it clears I will treat other issues. I have limited time with kids/wife and work. At this point it is getting my wife and kids where they need to go. Next week I'll put a Matco scanner on it. Will report with negative results.

 

In your very first video the engine turned over a few times ...... yes, I know, it was VERY SLOW MOVEMENT and incomplete/uneven movement, and then it quit turning. You yourself stated that it cranked over for almost a second several times (and you also stated it would start occasionally). That video and the other "attempts to start" you described are what I am calling a weak crank. Anytime the engine rotates, that is a crank - at least in my opinion. It means power (electricity) is getting sent to the starter and the internal engine components are being moved. Sometimes there is absolutely NO electricity sent to the starter, that is clearly not your issue (at least not 100% of the time). The reason to differentiate is because SOMETIMES the PCM could actually be preventing it from starting (and obviously so can a security system), other times it could be a wiring issue, a battery issue, a starter issue, or a hydrolock or frozen pulley/clutch/etc is preventing it. Troubleshooting is different for the differing conditions (ie if something is intentionally preventing electricity from getting to the starter versus when the starter is getting electricity - even if it is minimal). IMO there is a difference in what you posted in the video versus "absolutely nothing happening".

Some of my comments (in post 21) were directed SPECIFICALLY AT your thoughts of it being a PATS issue ("Passive Anti-Theft System" - not PAST). Some PATS have the starter interrupt feature and should prevent any electricity from getting to the starter. I believe that that is the case w/ the 00-05 excursions (with PATS B or E), but that would be good to confirm. You obviously are getting some starter power (at least at times), so unless you quit getting ANY engine rotation (every attempt), I personally don't see how PATS can be the only issue from what you have posted. That said, I certainly admit that I could be wrong. If you are going that direction, then I have a PATS troubleshooting guide somewhere. I'll post it if I can find it. Other of my comments were directed at your batteries or something physically restraining the crank (pulleys, clutch, or a hydrolock). The second video you posted cleared that up and it was appreciated - it helped clear things up, at least for me, and I appreciate you humoring me with it.

IMO, it still could be related to the ignition switch and/or its wiring (which is then bypassed when you use the remote start wiring) ... If you haven't attempted the ignition troubleshooting suggestions, then they would be the next things to try. Anyway, we all have limited time and I can appreciate that for sure. Our goals are the same - for you to get it fixed as quickly as possible.

Edit - found the guide.

Some highlights that might help:

It is not a PATS issue, if:
• The “Service Engine Soon” light is illuminated. (Investigate PCM system)
• There is no communications with PCM: PCM will always communicate on the diagnostic link regardless of theft status. (Investigate PCM system)

Things to do:
• Look for fault codes in PATS. The PATS function will store fault codes when the PCM records a P1260.
• Check to ensure vehicle does not have an aftermarket engine immobilizer. The Ford FCSD aftermarket remote entry system comes with a starter interrupt that should be disabled on PATS equipped vehicles.
• Check to ensure vehicle does not have an aftermarket remote starter. Disable any Remote Starter equipment, especially anything nearby the PATS Transceiver. Ford FCSD Dealer installed Remote Starter systems are approved for use in Ford vehicles.

The attached document has a reset procedure, but it looks like you need a diagnostic tool.

The last "bullet" item looks promising (looks like this is what Ed was referring to), but why would there be no issues (ie no conflict) w/ the remote start until now? I assume you have had the remote start for awhile? Regardless, sounds like disabling the remote start (if it is aftermarket) might be the next troubleshooting step to take (at least according to the Ford guide document).

 

I did a intake manifold replace on a friends 2007 f150. Gasser. I disconnected batteries, of course. Replaced intake put all together. Could get it to turn over but just wouldn't start. My friend come over and said it was the pats system on those years trucks. He called the man he bought it from and went out and did a key on key off routine with the fob . turn key on hit unlock so many times then turn key of. He did this long process and said you needed the one of the original programmed keys to do it. I tried to get a hold of him last night for more detail on the process. No luck but will keep trying.
I would look down that road. Back in those years Ford was charging 4 or 5 hundred dollars to perform that process if you lost original keys. I got that info off FTE Ford 150 5.4 forum. Good luck .
I will try and get a hold of my friend for more info.