When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Gently pry up on the Clip to release the white tab. Grab with a needle nose pliers and pull out. Might need an extra set of hands one to hold the clip up and you can pull it out.
You actually shouldn’t need to pry up on the clips at all. The sensor tab is beveled to allow the connector to come off when pulled but retain it when not.
Spray some lube (doesn’t matter what) around the edges of the clips, then use needle nose to work the plug back and forth gently so you don’t break off what’s left. As you gain movement it helps to blast with compressed air and relube to clean out the dirt that’s causing drag.
If you don’t gain movement after a couple minutes, save yourself the impending trouble of totally destroying the connector and get a replacement because it’s not coming out anyway.
You can splice the wires back on. Just tape it up real good to prevent water from intruding. The rest of the temp sensor should be screw into the thermostat housing or pipe or of the engine block should be with in the reach of the connector.
What engine you have? Someone will chime in and tell you where it goes.
1) The connector shouldn’t just fall off even with the tabs broken.
2) If you do decide to replace the connector, you can disassemble both connectors and only replace the plastic part. You really do not need to cut the wires at all.
IIRC (and that’s a push in any scenario ) there will be a center tab you pull out with needle nose, then you can use a tiny flat blade screwdriver (like what comes in an eyeglass repair kit) or a safety pin to release the retaining tab and pull the terminals out the back. Just make note of each wire position.
If you decide to splice in a new pigtail, strip back the plastic looming/tape at least 6” (I try to go as far back as allowable with the length of the pigtail). Cut each wire so the splices will be staggered/offset from each other, and use heat shrink butt connectors. These not only crimp the wire but also use glue to seal it when heated - a hair dryer will work if you have nothing else. When done, wrap tape around any areas that could potentially damage the wire such as where the wiring splits off and has to pass thru the seam of the loom. And don’t be surprised if the loom breaks or crumbles when removing it - it’s just due to age. You can buy new or just tape everything up.
IIRC (and that’s a push in any scenario ) there will be a center tab you pull out with needle nose, then you can use a tiny flat blade screwdriver (like what comes in an eyeglass repair kit) or a safety pin to release the retaining tab and pull the terminals out the back. Just make note of each wire position.
Thanks!
I found an excellent how to video of the procedure on YouTube:
I cleaned off the old wires so I could see the colors better.
They are actually green with a dark stripe & grey with a red stripe.
I've attached pics of the old & new connectors & wires. I need to know where to insert the old wires (green with a dark stripe & grey with a red stripe) into the new connector.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.