I am wondering how can someone hook up a OEM charcoal canister on a 82 f150 to function with an aftermarket carb without the fuel bowl vent attachments?

I saw one guy for his late 70s truck use ported vacuum for the purge of the canister.

But I'm curious if there is a way to hook one up to be functional outside of that way.

 

On a factory stock truck it is not only the carb bowl that is vented but the fuel tank(s).
So in your case with the after market carb no bowl vent but do vent the tank(s).
Dave ----

 

Unless you are concerned with venting the hydrocarbons to atmosphere there is no need to purge the canister and it will self purge as ambient temperature and the barometric pressure changes.

And you do not need the carb vent to purge the canister that portion of the circuit can be removed and plugged at the charcoal canister on most calibrations.
So you have that option.
The canister can also be purged to manifold vacuum with an orifice of 0.010"-0.015" inline in the vacuum line to manifold vac.
You can also run a line from the canister to the filtered side of the air cleaner. there is enough of a pressure differential between the atmospheric air outside of the filter and the filtered side of the filter to purge the canister. You need very little pressure/airflow to purge the charchol canister as it is a passive system and really only relies on the pressure differential of the vapours produced in the fuel tank.

 

Going with the orifice idea, the factory sometimes just ran a vacuum line from the canister straight to a little fitting on the PCV valve. Most PCV valves you buy in the store now have this extra small nipple molded in place, but blocked off with plastic. If your particular truck needs it, you just snip the plastic on the nipple and hook the line up. I have had several trucks where this small vacuum line from the PCV valve went straight to the charcoal canister.

Hooking a purge line up to the canister does help with gas smells under the hood.

 

Thanks for the replies. Only reason I wanted to retain this feature is to make use of as much fuel vapor as I can. I don't mind not having the vents on the carbs I figured I could just plug them but I am trying to figure out proper hook up for it since my 306 is going to retain the OEM factory aircleaner.

My goal is to gut all the emission systems and then redesign it from the ground up retaining the vapor canister for one as well as retaining the factory air cleaner to have the warm air function.

I did a lot of reading but most of the information I keep seeing is for older trucks in the 70s.

Seems like one line will go to manifold vacuum, the purge valve will then have a hose that runs to a temp vacuum switch in the aircleaner I keep seeing then going to ported vacuum then the other line goes to the fuel tank with the last large line going to the carb bowl vents.

I currently have a NOS Motorcraft PCV valve that doesn't have the dual ports. But since I am gutting a bunch of emission systems such as the air pump I will have manifold vacuum ports on the vacuum tree available. Only thing I might have to tee into would be the ported vacuum port as I am not sure which my 306 would prefer between manifold vacuum and ported vacuum.

That is also another thing I am going to have to look into also is if I should do like some vehicles did (not sure if my truck is like this or not) and run my vacuum advance through a temp vacuum switch.

Goal is to try and retain some factory functionality that will benefit a non emission engine while omitting what would not benefit a non emission based engine.

 

Correct, my tank will be vented to the vapor canister. Just keeping myself busy planning things out for my truck in different areas. I am at the planning stages for what systems I will be omitting and what I will be keeping.

By time I am done I believe I will have minimal vacuum lines. But I do want to keep what is beneficial, such as the vapor canister is. Like the OEM aircleaner I got so I can retain cold air intake as well as the hedman header attachment to keep the preheater for the aircleaner so I can have that functional as well. Air pump and everything related to the airpump system will be gone. EGR system is gone as well, heads wont have heat cross over, intake manifold doesn't have EGR port either. So that leaves basically the evap system and the ignition system.

I have to check my faded and worn out emission decal for the vacuum diagram but I want to say mine the dist is supposed to go from ported vacuum through a temp vacuum switch. Not sure if that is something else I should consider retaining. I think I have a black and white check valve/delay valve or what ever its called inline on my vacuum advance but it no longer goes through a temp switch I believe.

 

I'm using the stock Charcoal Cannister on my 1984 with 302. It is currently connected only to the fuel tank vent line. The larger line that originally went to the carb is now capped off. That way it still looks factory...lol.

Don't ever think this stuff...

Step #1. Installed aftermarket carb.

Step #2. Install vacuum lines to distributor, PCV, and brake booster. Forget about everything else.

Step #3. Drive truck.

 

If you are in Houston the number of days you would need the warm air function in the stock air cleaner in a decade could be counted on one hand.

If you are going to use the PCV to purge you need to run a purge valve controlled by the emmsions port on the carb you can not just purge the charcoal canister/s with the PCV line with no control it would be like having a vacuum leak.

 

Maybe, but I don't know exactly how cold it gets on a daily basis where I will be moving which would put me more in central Tx.

Looking factory is another thing I am going for since we have to pass a visual inspection when it comes to the yearly inspection even though its exempt. Currently I don't have to worry but if I run across a inspector that wants to be a stickler for the rules then I rather make it look stock to the unsuspecting fool.

Speaking of the dist anything special in that case or just run a plain hose straight to the vacuum advance? I don't know if mine goes through a temp switch but I know it does have a black and white vacuum check valve/ delay valve

 

I don't think I will use the PCV to purge. I am thinking of using one of the empty manifold ports at the vacuum tree to provide the manifold signal to the purge valve, the other I will be hooking to ported vacuum which as far as I can tell would be correct after it goes through the temp control vacuum switch in the air cleaner. I think this should make the system perform like it was designed to.

Illustration guide shows more parts in the system but I think that is just shown to show everything.

One thing I cant find in the illustration guide is the vacuum advance setup. I still want to say mine has a check valve/delay valve installed inline.

 

Once you redo the carb and other stuff the delay valve for spark advance will be redundant and will hinder fuel economy and power

 

I was wrong, my 86 ranger purges the charcoal canister continuously by the throttle body like the diagram below. I remember now, it has a little red silicone hose under there. I can't remember where I have seen the purge on the PCV valve, but it was somewhere. I now cannot say whether it had a solenoid on that line or not. But I would not put the purge on a random vacuum line somewhere on the carb or the manifold. Just like the PCV valve is hooked into a special port that makes sure the PCV gases are distributed to all the cylinders as evenly as possible, I would think the purge gases need to be distributed evenly between all cylinders also. The engine may run a little rough if gas fumes are suddenly introduced at the back of the engine and the front of the engine doesn't get any.

 

Right, I forgot about that aspect. Probably be better to go to the manifold port on the carb as it would have a higher chance of distribution than the vacuum tree that would be in just the runner for cylinder 5. The vacuum lines attached there under normal operation wouldnt suck air as it provides a vacuum signal for the vacuum modulator and brake booster. I think the pcv hooks here too but my summit carb has a pcv port that I can attach it to for a better distribution of crank case fumes.

 

It is not really fumes and not even vapour so to speak, the amount that comes out of the charcoal canister would not even be enough to kick the engine during a start.

The later EFI units used vacuum of the in induction system post air filter or the minimal venturi vacuum of the throttle body to purge the canister/s. They need very little vacuum differential to purge the canister/s, significantly less than 1psi differential is enough to purge them.

 

Matthew, so the PCV valve with it's small orifice would still need the control valve?
You also posted about the .010"-.015" orifice if the vacuum line went to manifold vacuum.

My 81 300 six did use this purge valve as per the radiator sticker but was missing the valve so I went right to the PCV valve as it does have that small nipple for this but I did not know it was an orifice at the time.
I am also using the stock v1 carb with a bowl vent.

In my case if I have to could I just add a small jet of .010"-.015" size in the hose to do the same thing and keep it going to the PCV valve?
I do have the air filter cold / hot door running thru the temp sensors in the housing going to manifold vacuum and timing advance to ported vacuum on the carb.
Everything else has been removed before I got the truck and felt that was the best way to go in my case.
Thanks
Dave ----