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Hey guys, I scoured old threads looking for a definitive answer but couldnt find one.
Long story short I have a 2003 7.3 CCSB with 20x8, 2011-2016 wheels They rub pretty badly on my leafs. Everyone knows this is because "after 2005 the backspacing/offset changed", So these fit, but they arent exactly ideal because of the rubbing. I have new tires and dont want to blow a bunch of money on after market wheels, when after all i want to have ford wheels. From my research, the 2008-2010 20x8 wheels (below) have a zero offset. this differs from my current wheels (2011-2016) which i see on multiple sites as having 40mm offset (+40). both rims are 20x8.
So correct me if im wrong, but if i get the 2008-2010 rims, I will push my tires out 1.5 inches (40mm = roughly 1.5 inches) and i will solve my rubbing issue? Is this wrong? thanks guys
So I tried spacers and I can’t figure out what size to get in the rear that is hubcentric with the lip that will fit over the hub in the back. The only I’ve seen working were some guy on YouTube who grinded it down. I ordered spacers and the ones in the rear didn’t have a lip to make them hubcentric and so it wouldn’t have worked. Any advice there? I don’t know what the bore is supposed to be in the back. I’d prefer not to use spacers if anyone knows if I am right about the wheel offsets
You are not right about the wheel offset. I run 18x8 OEM wheels from a 2010 on my 2001. I purchased some 2" hubcentric spacers on Amazon. I had to machine them to 1 3/4 (to make the hubcentric lip extend in to the OEM wheel far enough to work).
You are not right about the wheel offset. I run 18x8 OEM wheels from a 2010 on my 2001. I purchased some 2" hubcentric spacers on Amazon. I had to machine them to 1 3/4 (to make the hubcentric lip extend in to the OEM wheel far enough to work).
The bores were correct on the spacers I purchased....it was the locating lip that wouldn't engage (wasn't long enough)the OEM wheel, because of the huge chamfer on the wheel. I machined .250 off the mounting surface, making the locating diameter .250 longer.
The bores were correct on the spacers I purchased....it was the locating lip that wouldn't engage (wasn't long enough)the OEM wheel, because of the huge chamfer on the wheel. I machined .250 off the mounting surface, making the locating diameter .250 longer.
On the rears, the lip is paper thin.
I got my spacers on Setgroup.com, why in the hell did they send me wheel centric spacers for the rear?
Even the hubcentric ones for the front with the lip wouldnt fit over the hub in the rear..I think the bore was 124.5 or so.
So am I not gonna find hubcentric spacers for the rear with a big enough bore and lip?
I got mine on setgroup too...the black hub and wheel centric are for the front, the silver are for the rear, it’s a TIGHT fit, you will need to start setting all 8 spacer lugs, tighten in a star pattern to about 40-50 ft-lbs all around the first time, then go back and do a second round at 80, then I set mine at 100 with red loctite. The gap will close and they will fit.
I got mine on setgroup too...the black hub and wheel centric are for the front, the silver are for the rear, it’s a TIGHT fit, you will need to start setting all 8 spacer lugs, tighten in a star pattern to about 40-50 ft-lbs all around the first time, then go back and do a second round at 80, then I set mine at 100 with red loctite. The gap will close and they will fit.
Oh nice!!
so the silver ones are only wheel centric, and that’s okay? They fit on the hub just fine and were flush, but I was concerned because they are only wheel centric
Re-read DanV's post. I have also modified hubcentric spacers on a lathe to open up the inner diameter....and the ring becomes almost paper thin (although I machine mine so the only way they'll go on is with the axle shaft removed as it's a larger diameter than the hub).
You can also get aluminum spacers with a steel hubcentric ring for the rear. Or do what I did and install an 05-16 rear axle.
Re-read DanV's post. I have also modified hubcentric spacers on a lathe to open up the inner diameter....and the ring becomes almost paper thin (although I machine mine so the only way they'll go on is with the axle shaft removed as it's a larger diameter than the hub).
You can also get aluminum spacers with a steel hubcentric ring for the rear. Or do what I did and install an 05-16 rear axle.
I hear ya, I just don’t get why they don’t manufacture them correctly in the first place for our trucks
Re-read DanV's post. I have also modified hubcentric spacers on a lathe to open up the inner diameter....and the ring becomes almost paper thin (although I machine mine so the only way they'll go on is with the axle shaft removed as it's a larger diameter than the hub).
You can also get aluminum spacers with a steel hubcentric ring for the rear. Or do what I did and install an 05-16 rear axle.
For the cost of the rear spacers....the correct axle really isn't a huge amount more. And then you can score the E-Locker too!
"They" do and they're out there. Once you see why the rears have to be different, you'll understand the issue. Here is an example of how thin the spacer hub must be to both fit inside the bore of the wheel and fit over the full-floating hub of the rear axle. I took this picture just now of a spacer I modified but never used before installing a later-model rear axle. This was a second set of spacers I had purchased and modified as the first set had over 20,000 miles and I sold them to a guy when I thought I was done running factory 20" wheels last year....but couldn't give them up.
Here is why the rears have to be different than the front: Note, you can also see where the pilot of the spacer rode on the rear hub as it's shiny there.
If you google "hubcentric spacer rear f250" you will find a myriad of images that show a very thin hub pilot either machined in the spacer or utilizing a steel ring pressed into the spacer. I have never personally had to machine the face of the spacer to effectively lengthen the pilot though. I do make the inner pilot diameter smaller than the axle shaft flange outside diameter so the axle shaft has to be removed to install the spacer just to leave a little extra meat in the pilot.
Here's how thick the pilots start out (from my 2wd)
