Tstat override
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New User
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Tstat override
Is there a way to over ride the thermostat 160 degree to send a closed signal to the ecm? Or is there a way to test the MAF to see if its good or not? I thought there was a certain ohm between two pins I could read, but cant find it anywhere.
TIA
TIA
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,784
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From: Kentucky
Same answer as before: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...open-loop.html
No
The thermostat and/or the ECT do not control when the computer goes into closed loop. The computer programming controls when that happens.
Also previously asked: What issue(s) are you having that compels you want to try and re-engineer the factory programming of a semi-modern EFI vehicle?
No
The thermostat and/or the ECT do not control when the computer goes into closed loop. The computer programming controls when that happens.
Also previously asked: What issue(s) are you having that compels you want to try and re-engineer the factory programming of a semi-modern EFI vehicle?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 765
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Explaining the problem you're having is a good start, not asking for some bass-ackwards engineering that probably won't fix the problem. I'm going to take a wild guess that the truck is stuck in open loop and has poor fuel economy. Did you pull check engine codes yet?
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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So are you using a 160°F thermostat and want to circumvent the programming in the computer that is designed to use a 195°F thermostat?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 735
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From: NC
That is my understanding. These trucks NEED a 195 thermostat otherwise they will never enter closed loop. Using a 160 is shooting yourself in the foot.
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
Many years ago I had a 95 with a colder thermostat. It just ran rich and got poor fuel economy. The stock spec T stat is the only one that works.
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Okay, so I got this truck that has a Motes tuner, and has been upgraded from a 1993, to 1995 MAF setup. Looking to see if its just the tune thats making it run like crap, or bad MAF, or what. I'll start with the MAF test, ohming the sensor. It'll keep you updated, thanks
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Joe Kucinski
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
You inherited a potential host of problems IMHO. Start with the KOEO tests and Stored Code display. Jumping to re-engineering the programming is a slippery slope and dangerous to your wallet thickness.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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What a novel idea to see if there are any fault codes in the computer instead of just throwing money/parts at it.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 765
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Okay, so I got this truck that has a Motes tuner, and has been upgraded from a 1993, to 1995 MAF setup. Looking to see if its just the tune thats making it run like crap, or bad MAF, or what. I'll start with the MAF test, ohming the sensor. It'll keep you updated, thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
Could you provide more details of the modification done to the engine? Has this combination ever run correctly?
While the Moates product is very good you will need to learn how it works. At the very least a wide band O2 sensor will give you a clue if the engine is running lean or rich under various conditions. Without that tool you are just guessing what is happening.
While the Moates product is very good you will need to learn how it works. At the very least a wide band O2 sensor will give you a clue if the engine is running lean or rich under various conditions. Without that tool you are just guessing what is happening.
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Could you provide more details of the modification done to the engine? Has this combination ever run correctly?
While the Moates product is very good you will need to learn how it works. At the very least a wide band O2 sensor will give you a clue if the estrikengine is running lean or rich under various conditions. Without that tool you are just guessing what is happening.
While the Moates product is very good you will need to learn how it works. At the very least a wide band O2 sensor will give you a clue if the estrikengine is running lean or rich under various conditions. Without that tool you are just guessing what is happening.
I don't know if it ever ran correctly. It has a 393 stroker in it with an edelbrock truck intake, high flow cars, innovate o2 wideband, headers, and exhaust. All the 1995 intake setup and wiring and maf. I does run rich, but haven't got it up to temp yet... kinda scared lol
But gunna fire it up today or tomorrow and see what happens.
Had to flush the fuel lines and tank, change the fuel filter cause it sat with fuel in it for years.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 946
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From: Carnation, Wah
Sooo... if I was lucky enough to have your problems, I'd start at the beginning and work all the way through.
It's not as hard as it seems.
Make sure you have fuel pressure.
Make sure the ignition is in good shape- that includes the super- basics like finding
out which firing order this engine uses, and then making sure the wires match!
As to wires, you'll probably get to test every wire in the PCM harness,
just out of paranoia. I would- it's not hard to do, and eliminates hours
of troubleshooting if you discover that something's miswired.
I'd put a mechanical or good electric temp gauge on it...
...and a 195f thermostat in it, because as everyone ^^up there^^ says, it's gotta get warm.
If that didn't get me anywhere, I'd next flow- test the injectors. Because I have yet to tear
apart a 20 year old engine that DIDN'T have restricted- or even plugged- injectors.
And then go from there. Moates is still in business, last I looked, so you're
in good shape there, when you find out you need help from them.
It's not as hard as it seems.
Make sure you have fuel pressure.
Make sure the ignition is in good shape- that includes the super- basics like finding
out which firing order this engine uses, and then making sure the wires match!
As to wires, you'll probably get to test every wire in the PCM harness,
just out of paranoia. I would- it's not hard to do, and eliminates hours
of troubleshooting if you discover that something's miswired.
I'd put a mechanical or good electric temp gauge on it...
...and a 195f thermostat in it, because as everyone ^^up there^^ says, it's gotta get warm.
If that didn't get me anywhere, I'd next flow- test the injectors. Because I have yet to tear
apart a 20 year old engine that DIDN'T have restricted- or even plugged- injectors.
And then go from there. Moates is still in business, last I looked, so you're
in good shape there, when you find out you need help from them.