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A/C compressor siezed

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Old Aug 28, 2019 | 12:35 PM
  #1  
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A/C compressor siezed

Hi,

I've got a 93' Ford Aerostar 4wd xlt. The other day my wife was driving and said she heard a terrible sound coming from the engine....noticed when she turned the AC off it stopped and was able to get it home. I've looked now, and when you turn on either the AC or defrost it looks like the AC compressor tries to run but locks up. This causes the serpentine belt to slip, the AC compressor gets super hot and actually looks to be sparking a bit....when you turn the AC/defrost back off works no prob. If this were to happen at high speed I'd foresee some serious damage to the engine occurring.

Changing the AC compressor seems relatively straightforward, but I've read you need to disconnect the refrigerant lines and cap them....wondering if this is something a home mechanic should easily and safely be able to do (and if anyone has specific instructions). Also, wondering if anyone has insight on any deeper problems that may have caused the AC compressor to seize that should be addressed first. We live in a cold climate and really don't need AC (and it didn't work very well before this issue) but defrost is essential with winter coming.

Any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 28, 2019 | 02:02 PM
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In short, yes, the home mechanic can do this...….in addition to the compressor, and give the age of the vehicle, because of particulates which have now floated through the system and could damage the new compressor, replace everything....condenser, ac accumulator, and rubber lines and of course all the O-rings.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2019 | 04:53 PM
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You should also take the car to an AC mechanic to suck out all the refrigerant first before taking the system apart.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2019 | 06:24 PM
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If you disconnect the power to the compressor you will still have the fan for defrosting with heat only, but it will work.
Condenser coil
Accumulator
O ring kit
Compressor
And a couple orifices,, the orifice is in the evaporator, and it will most likely be clogged with metal shavings. You might need a couple because it never hurts to run it for a day and then pull it to check for crap, and put in a new one if needed.
OIL Most important!
Alot of compressors come with the oil in them,, make sure. And make sure its the proper amount.

A set of gauges and a bottle of 134a is good to.
Its fun
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 09:19 AM
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After all the components are replaced, you MUST pull a deep vacuum on the system before recharging it again. Leaving air, moisture and other contaminants in the system creates a chemical factory that will ruin all the replacement parts. Pure refrigerant is very stable and will last for years but add some oxygen to the mix and awful things start to happen and the results are a disaster. If you replace the parts yourself, take it to a shop to have it evacuated and recharged to protect your investment.

The easiest and cheapest fix for you would be separating the plug at the compressor clutch keeping it from ever engaging. The sparks and heat you saw/felt were from the clutch slipping.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 05:09 PM
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Thanks for everyone’s input! Given the age of the vehicle, cost of parts, and fact that AC isn’t really a priority for us I’m thinking disabling the compressor clutch sounds like the best option for us. Can you confirm unhooking the wiring harness pointed out in the pic attached will accomplish that? Any other fuses etc. I ought to remove as well?

Also just want to confirm this is a safe and relatively long term fix, still allowing for defrost and vent. My understanding is the compressor clutch is the Issue ....any likelihood the pulley will actually seize over time with the clutch disabled? Thanks so much y’all!
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 05:21 PM
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That is the power to the AC clutch, and is the only thing you need to pull to completely disable it. Normally, the defroster will engage the AC to remove moisture from the incoming air before blowing onto your windshield. There used to be plenty of cars with no AC, so their defrosters had to work without the dehumidification. But as long as you have heat in the winter, you should still be able to defrost your windshield.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 11:21 PM
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The a/c system's pressure switch would prevent the compressor from running in colder weather. You'd only get a little dehumidification when the temperature was more or less above freezing. Not sure where you call home but from what you say, disconnecting the clutch won't effect you much. If the windows do fog, turn on some heat to drive it away. Warm air holds a lot more moisture than cold air can.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2019 | 10:54 AM
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IMHO, just in case the clutch assembly has an issue like internal bearings that can jam etc., I would remove the belt driving the AC pulley/compressor and if necessary replace with a shorter one as well as dc the ac compressor connector
 
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Old Aug 31, 2019 | 08:10 AM
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Way Way more likely the compressor siezed, not the clutch pulley. Just unplug the compressor and roll on.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2019 | 06:09 PM
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I agree with sittinguy, the guts of the compressor went bad. Sounds like the clutch is working fine. Unplug and keep driving. You'll have to replace the compressor or look for a bypass pulley later when the pulley bearings fail, but that might be a million miles from now.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 01:35 PM
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Thanks everyone for your replies! I disconnected the compressor and things seem to be proceeding fine. I live in a cold, dry, mountainous climate so not having AC is fine and humidity is low. I always use the heater in the winter when I need to defrost the windshield. Again thanks!
 
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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 06:40 PM
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Glad that worked! Thanks for letting us know how it came out!
 
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