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I have a 2011 F150 4x4 and I think it is time to replace the front struts, I have all of the tools and have looked at a few videos and on some they remove the axle nut and slide the axle out and some they do not, has anyone changed the struts on their f150 4x4 without having to remove the axle from the hub.
You should be able to do it without removing the axle from the hub, however, with a lot of miles on it you might want to check the hubs while you have it up and apart.
Makes it much easier if you DO pull the halfshaft out. Very easy to do, and realign teeth BEFORE you retorque to 30lb/ft. Myself, I've never loosened the UCA or LCA, like some of those videos show.
Here's a video from Makalucco, on how to realign the teeth, the whole video is worth watching, so just bear with it.
Still sorting this out too for a 2007 F-150 4x4 with about 170,000 miles of rough unpaved roads on it. As far as I can tell, the shocks/struts are still fine. Simply thought when I put new tires on it last winter that it would be good time to replace. Got different quotes Pricing from trusted shop was $1,400 and the dealer was $900 but they couldn't even answer the question if alignment needed, which trusted shop said it would be needed. Not sure at this point as this is hard to figure and nothing like replacing shocks on trucks before. Sometimes I miss my old Ranger. OK, not really.
Still sorting this out too for a 2007 F-150 4x4 with about 170,000 miles .
FWIW My 2007 had broken coils on both front struts, The lower coil has snapped on both sides resulting in the vehicle having a lowered front appearance and I have spoken to several other owners of the 2004-2008 generation f150's who have had snapped coils on these models
I didn't remove the hubs when I replaced the struts with Bilstein 5100's (+2-1/4") on my '11. If I recall, I loosened the UCA, loosened the lower portion of the strut, removed the top strut nuts, then dropped the lower end of the strut down into a space to allow enough room for the top to swing out. Then I lifted the whole thing out. Kind of a trick but it can be done. I used two pairs of spring compressors on each spring and you'll definitely need an air ratchet. And I was 61 at the time.
I didn't remove the hubs when I replaced the struts with Bilstein 5100's (+2-1/4") on my '11. If I recall, I loosened the UCA, loosened the lower portion of the strut, removed the top strut nuts, then dropped the lower end of the strut down into a space to allow enough room for the top to swing out. Then I lifted the whole thing out. Kind of a trick but it can be done. I used two pairs of spring compressors on each spring and you'll definitely need an air ratchet. And I was 61 at the time.
This is how did it too. Took about an hour per side. Alignment was perfect when checked.
My truck with new front struts and 2" spacers on top of them, I like the leveled out look, The top pic is a before and the bottom the after new struts installed Old Struts New Struts with 2" lift spacers
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It changes the whole appearance and gives it a more aggressive stance, and the new struts made a big difference in the ride, the old ones while they had a soft ride were a bit mushy, the new ones have more of a sport ride, not harsh but a little stiffer
If you have the EPAS (electronic power steering), and your 2011 should; don't forget to disconnect the battery before doing any prying/pounding on the parts.
If you have the EPAS (electronic power steering), and your 2011 should; don't forget to disconnect the battery before doing any prying/pounding on the parts.
Ant tapping on the control arms to release the ball joints would be significantly less of a jar or bang or jolt to the steering system than the vehicle is subjected to just driving down a normal paved road let alone any type of off road/rough terrain so I do not see this as an area of concern, If I am missing something let me know.
Update 9/22/2020 , I have added 1 1/2" lift blocks to the rear. Pics to follow. I was happy with the front lift/leveling kit but I wanted just a tiny bit more lift on the rear, I ordered a set from eBay a kit consisting of 2 - 1 1/2" lift blocks with 4 U Bolts/nuts, total price with free shipping $45.60.
Took me less than 2 hours to install them, I jacked the truck up, placed a jack stand under the axle on the side I was working on, removed the tire/rim, removed the original U bolts then jacked up the truck using a floor jack and block of 4x4 under the leaf spring just in front of the axle, Driver side went in without a hitch, Passenger side the rear axle shifted a little to the rear when I jacked up the spring and the alignment pins were slightly out of alignment so I used a come a long and pulled the rear forward until the alignment pins lined up, tightened the new U bolts and put the tire back on.
It is amazing what 1 1/2" height can do for the appearance.
Valerie
Pics of truck with 2" front lift and 1 1/2" rear lift spacers installed
I just replaced mine on my 2010 F150 but i also replaced the upper and lower arms with ford parts and all new inner and outer tie rods and they too were ford parts. I also installed 4.10 gears in the front axle.
What I would like to add to this is Autozone has a heavy duty spring compressor that you can clamp in a vise. I rented that tool and it made the job of swapping the coil springs over to the Bilsteins so easy. I highly recommend renting that if one is swapping out the front struts.
