I have also heard, never have tried it yet, that you can jump the truck by connecting at the starter. Atleast get power to unlock the doors.

 

Well I certainly want to avoid that scenario particularly the balloon expansion technique as I'd be worried about upper door frame distortion if by happens chance not done correctly. Again, thanks for posting your experience. I had the lock cyl. and jammer plates installed a few months back and have yet to explore how I'd provide external power to the truck in an event such as your's. Will address it next week by having some remote terminals or a connector of some type installed to mitigate the need to jump power.

 

I haven’t looked to see on these trucks if possible but on many vehicles you can get an alligator on the starter terminal.

If possible that’d be my first $0 choice.

 

I would also be curious how difficult or easy it might be to add a way to open the hood from the outside (under the front bumper), It might be similar to what we do for the back seat latch to flip the rear driver side seat forward.

 

I don't think that's correct. The idea of Jimmi' Jammers isn't to remove the lock cylinder. The idea is that you reinforce the lock cylinder with metal plates that minimize the potential that thieves can overpower the once-plastic components.



That's a Jimmi' Jammer. Lock still present.

The PunchPlug is another device that replaces the lock cylinder altogether. You can choose either just the Jimmi' Jammer or the additional protection of the PunchPlug. There is more information about how these components complement each other on the Jimmi' Jammer website.

First time I even thought about Jimmi' Jammers, I searched and read up on the subject. Very quickly the concept of a dead battery was mentioned and it's the #2 question on the Jimmi' Jammer FAQ linked above. In the myriad posts I read, the solution was presented: the battery remote jumper cable mounts. As is always the case: searching is your friend. I'm glad everything worked out. But, yes, if you eliminate the manual unlocking method (cylinder removal), then you need a way to remotely charge a dead battery. The links above to products are helpful, though it's always better to try to find OFC cables rather than the CCA ones that were in the link.

 

I replaced my drivers front handle with a rear handle so no more lock cylinder. I spent a hour one sunday afternoon and came up with a crooked piece of 9ga galvanized wire that I can trip the hood open from outside the truck. If you look at the mechanism its not hard to figure out... I leave it locked in my toolbox so I can get to it. I'm kinda surprised AAA didn't go after it that way.

- steve

 

That works for the lower tier trucks, but not on the keyless trucks having a proximity sensor in both front door handles.

Next time you visit your favorite Ford dealer, pull on the driver's door handle of an Expedition and notice how its design is somewhat similar, but different (cylinder not exposed). Shame that the Expedition's door handle assembly is not shared with the Super Duty ... especially since they're both built at the same plant.

 

I used to pop doors open all the time at an auction house I was an operations manager at. Either they use a nylon wedge or slip in the air bladder and work it slowly to get it open. The nylon wedge gets forced in a lot harder than the air wedge. Both work. Then they use the Big Easy (name of the tool) and grab the door handle or keys (if locked in). Pretty much no other way. Slim Jims are pretty much gone.

One question Id have about the jump ports would be to just open the door? You would still need two jumpers to work both batteries, to jump start. At least thats my experience with jumping diesels

 

The batteries are tied together. Connect to one and you connect to both.

 

Does anyone know if there are any walk throughs on how to add terminal extensions? Been trying to find a video and specifically where is the best place to mount them.

 

Looked at those, they are 1 ga Alum, I will pass on those.

But if you got a propane torch you can build your own better maybe not cheaper.

I use welding cable instead of auto-grade cable, more flex and more amps for a given size.

Get the HD connectors, I use the yellow grade.

They will last forever.

Get solder connections and some bullets and put it together about 30 min.

All the ends are soldered, use the solder bullets, drop in, apply propane to melt and then shove in your cable. All connections are sized for the cable size and the solder bullet is the exact amount of solder you need


Custom set I did for a guy, he wanted several connections

 

So if you're locked out of your truck, how do you gain access to the other end if it's locked inside?

 

Terminal extensions for ... ? If it's just a battery charger/maintainer, it's easy. I did it on mine and attached the ring terminals to the post the small nuts (10mm?) are on.

 

Sorry I wasn’t clear. If you are locked out of truck without power, where are folks storing the battery extensions? Are you accessing them from the passenger side wheel well so you can charge the battery to open the door? Or are y’all keeping access to the leads else where,

 

Just a thought....installing a jump port is an option but all that is really needed is enough power to operate the door locks. This can be done with a much lighter gage wire (12 or 14). Once in the truck the hood can be released and the jumper cables connected directly to the battery. The advantage is that any extension used to interface with jumpers cables will be much smaller and more easily squirreled away somewhere that is accessible from the outside.