Thanks for the informative thread with pics and the update on the switch durability.

 

No problem, I can highly recommend the switches. Turning the internal cam over that mounts the crank handle shaft is easy, and a worthwhile mod in my opinion, of course this means you will need to source new mounting screws.

 

Any reason you went with the universal kit (what part #?) rather than the made to fit? Do you have any details or tips on the wiring? were you able to use the original Ford crank handles with the Autoloc switches, or did you have to change to GM cranks?
Thanks!
https://www.electric-life.com/produc...tors-attached/

 

Bookmarking that because I may just have to do that!

 

I went with the universal kit EL3000 as this is listed for curved glass. The made to fit unit fits where the stock regulator goes, which means there isn't enough room for the Autoloc switch where the crank handle goes. You can use your stock Ford crank handle, it fits straight on to the supplied shaft, you will need to get a thread tapped into the shaft to hold the crank handle on, not a big deal. I haven't wired mine up yet, but it is easy. Autoloc provide wiring diagrams for you to download for free. The Electric Life kit is reverse polarity, so you use the first wiring diagram provided, it is really basic and user friendly. Just remember to turn the cam over in the Autoloc switch to make it easier to mount, and source new longer screws.

 

Something I have discovered, the housing where the actuating cam sits is extremely rough. You will need to strip it and polish it with some 600 grit wet and dry until it is smooth. The actuation feels like it is full of sand, polishing the housing eliminates this. It's not hard, and doesn't take long. If you want pictures of what I mean, just ask, and I'll post them.
I have one side all set up, and it works really well too, I'm happy with the set up.

 

Good info to know, thanks. A pic is worth a 1000 words...that way we all know exactily what you are talking about. I think you are talking about a part of the elec mechanism right?

 

So, if you end up breaking a switch that uses the crank handle, would you still be able to roll the window up?

Would it be prudent to wire the rocker switch in parallel as a backup if it doesn't work when broken?? Mount it up under the dash, or in the glove box or something?

 

I like the thought of a spare passenger side window switch under the dvrs side dash somewhere, that way you can drive proper and roll up the passenger side.

 

Ok, here we go!! This is the Autoloc switch as it arrives, I have removed the three screws that hold it together as I was part way through stripping it


Notice the slot in the opening the crank handle mounts on is facing the side the screws go into to hold the cover plate on. You'll want to turn that part over, so you aren't trying to hold it all together, and mount it to your door.



Here I have removed the cover plate, and my finger is holding the return spring in place. As you can see, due to the design, you really can't break anything at all. The switches are well and truly protected from anything that moves. The critical parts that could be damaged are made of metal. I really do believe it'd be an impressive effort to break one.



The bare chassis. Where the round steel cam was it where you'll need to polish the casting. Now, yeah I know, it is advertised as being made of billet. It isn't, it's diecast alloy, and there is nothing wrong with the material. You can plainly see all the heat draw marks, and running your finger over them will tell you all you need to know. 10 minutes with some 600 grit wet and dry sand paper, and it is as smooth as you mug after a hot shave!! It is easy to do. Before you sand it, the actuating cam feels like it is running in sand, afterwards, the action is nice and smooth.

Then reassemble it, putting the steel actuating cam in over the other way


Now from the side with the screws that hold the cover plate on you'll see the hole you insert the screw through to attach the crank handle mounting pin. It's that easy!!

for those who wondered, you could mount a back up rocker switch some where, but honestly, seeing how robust these switches are, I do not see the need. I think you'd break the crank handle before you'd damage anything. To break the plastic switch first you'd have to shear the return spring, no mean feat, and as the actuating cam is round, it'll go round and round in circles, operating the switches without breaking them!! As for operating the passengers window from the drivers side, yes, you could mount a switch in your door that would allow you to do so. There are loom kits available to do just this from Electric Life.

Next, I guess you'd like pictures of how I mounted the switch, right?? If so, you'll have to wait, I'm a mean SoB...nah, the real story is the auto electricians have it to install my new alarm and remove the fusible link wires and put in modern circuit breakers in a subtle location.

Any questions, I'm happy to help, feel free to post here, or PM me.

 

Thanks for the update and the walk thru, much appreciated.

 

Happy to help, if there are any further questions I'll do my best to answer them