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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 07:58 PM
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Help with my new 67


I just picked up a 67 250 Camper Special today and I took it out for a drive and she ran fine, I love the rumble of dual exhausts. I parked her in the driveway and tinkered with it for awhile and went to start it up again and she wouldn't start. It will turn over, but that is it. The PO put new plugs and plug wires on it, so I don't think that could be it. The gas gauge doesn't work so I put a couple of gallons in it hoping that would be the problem but it wasn't. Sprayed the carb with gunk cleaner. Maybe I need to put more gas in her?? It has a 352 in it and I think I remember that they have problems with a vapor lock if it gets hot? Is that right or am I thinking of something else. Thanks for any help,
Joe
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 09:48 PM
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Check for good fat hot blueish spark. WAG: previous owner replaced points & condenser, along with plugs and wires. The condensers from many parts stores are junk. Happens all the time. If you have an old school Echlin or Motorcraft, try that.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 12:10 PM
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Make sure the rotor is turning with engine(broken timing chain/gear). Then make sure it's in sync(jumped chain), #1 TDC, rotor pointing to #1 wire. Then unhook the condenser and see if it gets a spark(they tend to short out). It won't run well, but it will start with no condenser. Yes, the new chinesium junk parts don't last. Been there, done that. 100 miles and new Autozone condenser failed.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Freightrain
. It won't run well, but it will start with no condenser..
I don't know about that Wally...………….When I went to start a 7 year sleeping 390 in my 68 Merc it wouldn't fire off at all till I changed the condenser,
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 02:35 PM
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My advise is first chance you get, replace the points ignition with an electronic unit and eliminate the trouble points cause altogether. Points cannot be adjusted properly without a dwell meter. The gap setting is only a starting point. Drag from a weak starter with old field coils will also rob the juice needed to get a good hot spark too. As will old battery cables.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
I don't know about that Wally...………….When I went to start a 7 year sleeping 390 in my 68 Merc it wouldn't fire off at all till I changed the condenser,
"IF" the condenser is bad(shorted) it won't allow it to start at all(short across the coil=no run). But, if you removed it, it removes the short, thus allowing the engine to run. Not well, but run.

Many, many years back I had to drive my '70 F100/302 home with the condenser removed. It was shorted and of course killed it. Once the wire was removed the truck started, ran rough and could not accelerate well, but got me back home, even with my boat in tow. I was on the way to the lake for an afternoon on the water.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 07:43 PM
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Here's an update on what's going on. I know for a fact that it was running a few days before I bought it and it sounded fine. When I started it up for the first time yesterday, it sounded fine. And then it wouldn't start. I put a fresh 5 gallons of gas in in, charged up the battery and then tried it. It turned over and right when it sounded like it would start, it let out a "wheezing" noise. I'm sorry, but that is the best way I can describe it. It's like something is keeping it from firing up. Do the previous posts apply to getting this running? Or do I try something new?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 09:36 PM
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Have you checked for spark yet?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Freightrain
"IF" the condenser is bad(shorted) it won't allow it to start at all(short across the coil=no run). But, if you removed it, it removes the short, thus allowing the engine to run. Not well, but run.

Many, many years back I had to drive my '70 F100/302 home with the condenser removed. It was shorted and of course killed it. Once the wire was removed the truck started, ran rough and could not accelerate well, but got me back home, even with my boat in tow. I was on the way to the lake for an afternoon on the water.
Hmm, I never tried to run one without the condenser.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeKan
Here's an update on what's going on. I know for a fact that it was running a few days before I bought it and it sounded fine. When I started it up for the first time yesterday, it sounded fine. And then it wouldn't start. I put a fresh 5 gallons of gas in in, charged up the battery and then tried it. It turned over and right when it sounded like it would start, it let out a "wheezing" noise. I'm sorry, but that is the best way I can describe it. It's like something is keeping it from firing up. Do the previous posts apply to getting this running? Or do I try something new?
Might a jumped time. Remove the distributor cap and then using a breaker bar and 15/16" socket on the front of the crank, rotate the crank and take note how far the breaker bar moves before the distributor rotor moves
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 09:56 PM
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Tonight was crazy busy and didn't have time to check for spark. I will do it tomorrow after work. I really need to get this fixed because this is one of "those" trucks that I didn't tell me wife about...needless to say it "hit the fan" yesterday when it was delievered to my house. And now, with it not running, it's going to "hit the fan" again )) unless I get it fixed quick. Thanks for the help!!
 
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Old Aug 13, 2019 | 08:01 AM
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Check slop, but also see if it is pointing to #1 plug wire when #1 piston is at TDC compression stroke.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 04:08 PM
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I'm thinking it may be a solenoid.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 05:45 PM
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If it's the solenoid it won't crank. Or it'll crank and won't stop cranking. (low battery voltage will also cause it to stick)
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 09:07 PM
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Could it be the starter then?
 
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