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Recently purchased a F350 coming from a F150- we plan on a bigger camper 5th wheel in the next year. In the meantime I'm setting up my 24 foot travel trailer and Equalizer hitch for the 350. I purchased a 2 1/2 to 2 reducer and did a 180 on the shank. My ride measurements look good. I'm worried the shank is not going far into the receiver. Anyone here with a similar hitch setup. Thoughts on my pics?
You could always redrill the sleeve if you wanted to but I'd just leave it as-is. I have a similar setup but I welded the sleeve to the shank to cut down on the slop. I also use a hitch clamp which reduces the slop to zero.
On edit, is that a detent on the sleeve? Looks like that should go right up to the receiver to reduce the play. You could rotate the sleeve 90°, run the sleeve tight up against the receiver, and mark the new hole location for drilling.
You could always redrill the sleeve if you wanted to but I'd just leave it as-is. I have a similar setup but I welded the sleeve to the shank to cut down on the slop. I also use a hitch clamp which reduces the slop to zero.
On edit, is that a detent on the sleeve? Looks like that should go right up to the receiver to reduce the play. You could rotate the sleeve 90°, run the sleeve tight up against the receiver, and mark the new hole location for drilling.
If it was me, I wouldn't be too worried about the depth the reducer goes into the receiver. Do keep an eye on the pin hole in the receiver for wallowing out. Use of the reducers seems to be the source for the hole turning from a circle to an oval. It may be more likely on the 3" receivers that are using both reducers to get down to 2" shanks.
I started with using both reducers so I could use the hitch that came with my trailer. After one trip, I switched to a WDH that had a shank sized to fit my receiver so I no longer had to use the reducers. Less slop, less noise, no wallowing of the pin hole.
I just purchased the 2.5" shank from Equalizer and then purchased the ball and hitch separate. You could still just buy the shank.....
What drop did you get? Im picking up my f350 tomorrow and need to order a new shank for my Equalizer hitch. Im looking at getting 2.5 inch with 6 inches of drop.
What drop did you get? Im picking up my f350 tomorrow and need to order a new shank for my Equalizer hitch. Im looking at getting 2.5 inch with 6 inches of drop.
Pardon my ignorance, I've never used a hitch clamp, but shouldn't the clamp hold the hitch down? In this picture it looks like it's trying to hold it up, which would seem to be working against gravity and putting a lot more strain on the clamp.
When the WDH bars are in place and properly configured, they will push up on the hitch. So if the clamp is pushing the hitch up, that's OK. If the clamp is pushing the hitch down then it would be working against the WDH bars.
If it was a non-WDH then you could probably reorient the clamp to push down on the hitch and that would be OK.
When the WDH bars are in place and properly configured, they will push up on the hitch. So if the clamp is pushing the hitch up, that's OK. If the clamp is pushing the hitch down then it would be working against the WDH bars.
If it was a non-WDH then you could probably reorient the clamp to push down on the hitch and that would be OK.
Makes perfect sense, thanks. I've never towed anything with a WDH, so that didn't occur to me.
When the WDH bars are in place and properly configured, they will push up on the hitch. So if the clamp is pushing the hitch up, that's OK. If the clamp is pushing the hitch down then it would be working against the WDH bars.If it was a non-WDH then you could probably reorient the clamp to push down on the hitch and that would be OK.
I get the logic, but, if the clamp nuts are tightened to say 75 ft.lbs, I don't think it matters. I flip mine over because I zip the nuts on and off with an electric impact gun, and they are just easier to get at from the top.
