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Hey Ford peeps what a great forum!!! learning so much!!!!
so I got a DEAL on a 99e450 cutaway/ shuttle bus w/ a 6.8 v10 and I'm converting it to an RV (over time) but right now just focusing on getting it working right..
so-far I've changed the plugs/ coils & did an oil change..
noticed some exposed coil/ injector wires so did my best to insulate them w/ liquid insulation.. no more missing cylinders (I think not certain but sure sounds better)..
that was NOT easy but thanks to this forum I got them in/ plugs torqued to about 25ft lb etc..
replaced the pcv & hoses, cleaned the TB..
so my problems now are:
parasitic battery draw
no dash gauge lights
no marker or running lights
no brake lights
no AC - (dash fans come on though) hoping it just needs a re-charge but not super-important just yet..
oh and I lost power to the obd2 somehow?
any insight is appreciated!!! any wiring diagram resources??
otherwise my plan is to just replace relays, light switch, ignition switch/ parts and hope i get lucky..
a 99e450 cutaway/ shuttle bus w/ a 6.8 v10 and I'm converting it to an RV (over time) but right now just focusing on getting it working right..
any wiring diagram resources??
otherwise my plan is to just replace relays, light switch, ignition switch/ parts and hope i get lucky..
Jon
Before you waste a ton of money and time better spent elsewhere get a Ford EVTM or "book of schematics" for your year chassis like this one: 1999 E-Series EVTM
Some of your issues may not be related to the Ford original chassis wiring so most problems you have related to whoever added the shuttle bus body---you'll need to search for available schematics for that wiring.
Loss of power to the DLC (data link connector) under the steering column typically is related to the cigar lighter port---they share Fuse #23 of the Central Junction Box aka fuse box located inside the cabin. FWIW fuse info is part of the EVTM.
Coolant flushing by itself shouldn't cause any starting issues, the open loop DTC as a reason or cause of non-start wouldn't apply during initial start up---the PCM allows for that until the embedded coolant temp sensor reads upwards of 195* or so.
OK that makes sense.. wondering now if it was vapor lock.. it was really HOT yesterday.
still getting these codes - persistent P1151
and pending P0340..
thinking I will:
check alternator AC current
check the upstream driver side upstream O2.. (not sure how to test it)
clean the MAF
clean the EGR
try to look for Vacuum leaks - (not sure how) propane safe? eek
replace fuel filter - (if i can find it)
check fuel pressure (need a gauge i guess) wonder if the Fuel pump is bad.. read somewhere it can be intermittent when it gets too hot.
maybe replace fuel pump relay
check the fan clutch - now that i think of it, can't recall hearing the fan kick on.
good news is when it's running it does sure sound smooth now! new plugs & coil-packs really helped!
anyways any insight to prevent the wallet purge is VERY appreciated.
if i get this beast running somewhat reliably I'm buying you all a beer.
The LT fuel trims look good, surprised those aren't a bit higher if the 02 isn't working as it should. Your coolant temperature is a bit low--should be closer to 190* F.
The clutch fan doesn't "kick on"---it spins the whole time the engine is running. It might be free wheeling during start up and until the engine temperature causes it to engage more fully in order to turn faster to maintain the desired coolant temperature. But once again your coolant temp doesn't seem to reach the design temp so the fan clutch would be quiet for lack of a better word.
hey guys... wonder if this could be causing my no-start issue.. (cranking fine, no start)
found a broken 3 wire (green/white, purple/orange, Grey/blue)
second pic is where it connects under the steering column to (white, Yellow/green, Brown/white)
idk it started fine a while ago before I found it..
seems like all this started after the Radiator flush!?
still need to check fuel pressure.. guys at auto part store gave me a vacuum gauge. DOH!
also it's difficult to shift it into PARK!! maybe i messed something up when i replaced shifter bushings..
maybe it's the fuel pump, egr, IAC? ah don't know!!
I did replace the cam sensor.. swapped a bunch of relays.. are ALL the big relays under the hood the same??
thanks guys I'll get there hell/high water.
Welp maybe the no start was fuse 17 / fuel pump relay.. it’s starting again. But went for a test drive & lost all my coolant. Caught it quick so I think I didn’t cause damage. Pretty bummed. Think the guys at jiffy lube messed me up switching from green to yellowish coolant?
cant even see where the coolant all came out from.. coolant puddle under intake..
seems like Ike I have bad thermostat, faulting temp sensors, maybe bad ecm, no idea.
Maybe if I could just find the coolant leak I could at least get it home.
Defeated.
Jon
Jon
Last edited by ljonSF; Aug 16, 2019 at 09:30 AM.
Reason: Update
UPDATE! so ALL problems have been solved!!!! I bought another bus with a 7.3 diesel w/ 94k miles!!! LOL fixed everything!!
so.. now I have one i wanna keep (7.3 duh) and another (6.8 v10) in the shop, they say they have no idea where to start.. but I bet it's this common problem found here - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-on-road.html
still not sure if i wanna go for fixing it myself/ pay the shop, or cut my losses and scrap/ tow/ sell it as is. it does seem kinda cursed. maybe y'all can help!
my question now is what is up w/ this!!?? (see picture) found this opening at the back/ right of the engine, near the Trans Dip-stick tube.. I don't understand how I could have drove it home mid summer day about 60 miles and it kept all the coolant, then lost all coolant during a night time test drive. so weird. what am even looking at here??
Yeah, it looks as if it doesn't line up but actually nothing passes through there on your application, BTW the waterpump feeds a pipe under the intake, it runs all the way to the rear of the engine, if it were to leak, you'd never see it till it comes running from the transmission bellhousing.
OK! THANK YOU!! that's all I really needed to know! and yes it has to be that faulty hose! as I couldn't find any other places it was leaking from, and was pooling under the intake.. I think I'll go to the shop - fix it myself (like this guy did) & drive it away laughing as it's hard to find people who are willing/ able to research, put in the work to git r done..
I've been dreading the day mine starts leaking, I've already had to deal with leaks in the line to the rear heat, everywhere there is a hold down bushing, the pipe had holes in it.
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